Bought a used 2001 Explorer V6 brought it home last week...

[Harper]

Today I spent a few minutes changing the starter on my $200 2001 Ford Explorer that i purchased last week after a previous owner had an issue with it. I was thinking it was probably going to be a blown engine, or something but i purchased it with clear title anyway after the previous owner said he had to have it moved as he was moving.
So today, really the first attempt to do anything to it. I installed a hot battery, and i get a clicking noise out of the starter area...but no Crank!
So i priced a starter a few places before settling on just picking up a $15 from a local scrap yard.
The advanced autoparts quoted me $129, local parts store $84, ebay $40.99, i continued to search and was lucky enough to find a cheap used one at the said scrap metal place.
It is now "Cranking over" however it will not "start". Fuel pump comes on when i cycle the key, tank is showing 3/4 of a tank of fuel. I however am thinking the "anti theft light" blinking may be part of my issue? would the motor even crank over if the "pass key" (i read this name online) were having an issue. I have two different keys from previous owner yet neither of them appear to have a "chip" in it. Not sure you can ever see those anymore nor if that is even the issue.
Suggestions are welcome.
thanks

 

[koda2000]

The 2001 model would require a chipped key. They are usually a square 'ish black plastic handle key and the chip is embedded in one of the outside corners. You can see it if you look closely. I'll see I can find you a picture of one on eBay.

There's an ANTI THEFT light on the dash that normally blinks about ever 2 seconds. If it's blinking fast they there is a problem with the key or the PATS (passive anti-theft system).

PATS will not turn on the fuel injectors if the key is not programmed/recognized by the PCM, but the engine would still crank/turnover.

My 2001 Explorer uses this key:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Ford-E...ash=item35fb77c653:g:rIAAAOSwFNZWwMCK&vxp=mtr

My 2001 Sport Trac uses this key (they are not interchangeable)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Transpo...ash=item3ac1ad449f:g:nOgAAOSw14xXEfBr&vxp=mtr

I think Ford switched to the round headed key late in the 2001 production year.

 

[Harpua216]

PATS keys probably are not the problem if its turning over. I am wondering how old the gas in the tank is and how long the car was sitting.

 

[1998Exp]

I am with Koda here. Don't have a schematic for 2001, but your assertion is certainly not true for my '98. And, disabling the starter with PATS wouldn't make much sense anyway, because starters have no internal electronic controls, so all you'd need is a piece of wire connected to the battery and off it goes...

PATS keys probably are not the problem if its turning over. I am wondering how old the gas in the tank is and how long the car was sitting.

 

[swshawaii]

pats will not turn on the fuel injectors if the key is not programmed/recognized by the pcm, but the engine would still crank/turnover.

+2

 

[Harper]

Thanks guys.
Yea I have that squared type keys- and I believe the anti theft lamp is only blinking normal as described.
Not sure how long it sat- I may get time to check out other things on it tomorrow.
I appreciate the responses.

 

[1998Exp]

The next steps are probably:
1) Checking for spark
2) Checking fuel pressure
3) Checking that injectors operate (there is a simple device called 'noid light' for that)
Good luck!

Thanks guys.
Yea I have that squared type keys- and I believe the anti theft lamp is only blinking normal as described.
Not sure how long it sat- I may get time to check out other things on it tomorrow.
I appreciate the responses.

 

[koda2000]

The next steps are probably:
1) Checking for spark
2) Checking fuel pressure
3) Checking that injectors operate (there is a simple device called 'noid light' for that)
Good luck!

I agree with the above, but the noid will only tell you if the fuel injector is receiving the signal to fire, but if it's operating. I believe to can test the fuel injector using a 9 volt battery. If it's opening you should hear it click.

If the truck has sat a long time it's possible the fuel injectors are no longer operative. Check the fuel pressure at the rail. It should be around 65 PSI on an '01. You can also remove the intake tube and spray a bit of starter fluid (2-3 seconds worth) into the throttle body. If the engine sputters to life briefly, you not getting any fuel.

To check for spark safely, I use an old spark plug and my battery jumper cables. Pull a convenient plug wire, stick the old plug in the wire and ground it to the NEG terminal on the battery, then have someone turn the get to START and watch for a good spark.

If you're not getting any spark, pull and clean the crank position sensor and it's contacts. I recently had an issue with my '97 not starting and a dirty crank position sensor was apparently the problem. Cleaned it and re-seated the plug and it's been working fine for over a month now. It's located at about 7 o'clock on the crankshaft vibration damper. I used a business card to space it from the reluctor when reinstalling it.

I didn't see where you say which engine the truck has. If it's the SOHC V6 and you can't get it to start, it's always a possibility that it's jumped time. If this is the case you might be better off cutting your loses, as even if the valves haven't gotten whacked the repairs require removing the engine to change the timing chain components front and rear. Check everything else first.

Edit:
I see it now, you said it was a V6 in the title to the thread.

 

[1998Exp]

Once again, I am with Koda. I overlooked the $200 cost. Hate to rain on your parade and bargains do exist sometimes, but any vehicle sold at scrap value is often just that -- scrap. If the no-start was caused by a minor problem like an inoperative injector or a defective crank sensor, the owner would have repaired it and sold it for good money. And we don't even know if the transmission works...
Worse come to worse, you can always get your $200 back by selling to a recycler (or get more if you don't mind parting it yourself).
Wishing you best of luck!!! Let us know what you found.

...
I didn't see where you say which engine the truck has. If it's the SOHC V6 and you can't get it to start, it's always a possibility that it's jumped time. If this is the case you might be better off cutting your loses, as even if the valves haven't gotten whacked the repairs require removing the engine to change the timing chain components front and rear. Check everything else first.

Edit:
I see it now, you said it was a V6 in the title to the thread.

 

[Harper]

Thanks for the replys.
The previous owner stated that the transmission is good.
I am about to put a hot battery in it and try and start it- may do the starter fluid route also.
I have no one to help with checking the fire but i do have a test light and it may be long enough to test for fire at the plugs.
It is the SOHC V6-
I figure if worse comes to worse, I can always sell the rear end to a Camaro/ trans am guy (they are using these in place of the crappy 10 bolt rears according to a friend of mine., and scrap the rest.
I don't think it's going to be that much wrong with it however, I will keep my fingers crossed and roll with it! Lol

 

[1998Exp]

A regular 12V test light (if that's what you have) won't test for spark at the plugs. Follow Koda's advice instead. However, in my opinion, you don't need to connect the plug body to the negative battery terminal. Touching some bare metal (like the exhaust manifold, for example) with the plug threads is good enough.
And do follow that good man's advice about testing injectors as well.
Have fun!

Thanks for the replys.

I have no one to help with checking the fire but i do have a test light and it may be long enough to test for fire at the plugs.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks for the replys.
The previous owner stated that the transmission is good.
I am about to put a hot battery in it and try and start it- may do the starter fluid route also.
I have no one to help with checking the fire but i do have a test light and it may be long enough to test for fire at the plugs.
It is the SOHC V6-
I figure if worse comes to worse, I can always sell the rear end to a Camaro/ trans am guy (they are using these in place of the crappy 10 bolt rears according to a friend of mine., and scrap the rest.
I don't think it's going to be that much wrong with it however, I will keep my fingers crossed and roll with it! Lol

Your 12V test light will not even come close to testing a 60,000 volt spark. The reason I sugeested connecting the other end of the jumper cable to the battery NEG terminal is its the best grond connection you have and it might prevent you from getting knocked on your ass by 60,000 volts.

 

[Harper]

Lol
I pulled the plug wire off a cylinder and used an extra spare plug from another project and had the wife start it. As it turns out I have a "Good" spark!!!

Next step: check fuel Rail Schroeder valve: results it puked a little fuel but that's it!!
The Good news is I believe my issue is fuel pump or fuel filter related!!!
The bad news is- now. Have to pull the tank!!!

The engine is on the verge of starting up- but evidently doesn't have the fuel pressure.
I tried starter fluid, it tries to crank but I was worried that it would back fire and shread the plastic intake... So I didn't use that much.
I even tried putting fuel down thru the open tb but my squeeze bottle was leaking, so I suspended that operation lol

 

[Mustang Guy]

Lol
I pulled the plug wire off a cylinder and used an extra spare plug from another project and had the wife start it. As it turns out I have a "Good" spark!!!

Next step: check fuel Rail Schroeder valve: results it puked a little fuel but that's it!!
The Good news is I believe my issue is fuel pump or fuel filter related!!!
The bad news is- now. Have to pull the tank!!!

The engine is on the verge of starting up- but evidently doesn't have the fuel pressure.
I tried starter fluid, it tries to crank but I was worried that it would back fire and shread the plastic intake... So I didn't use that much.
I even tried putting fuel down thru the open tb but my squeeze bottle was leaking, so I suspended that operation lol

You need to check your fuel pressure before you start dropping that gas tank. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge AA or AZ will loan you one for free. I'd change the fuel filter as a precaution since it's cheap, easy and never hurts doing it. Pulling that Explorer gas tank is a real pain.

 

[koda2000]

You need to check your fuel pressure before you start dropping that gas tank. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge AA or AZ will loan you one for free. I'd change the fuel filter as a precaution since it's cheap, easy and never hurts doing it. Pulling that Explorer gas tank is a real pain.

This. Logical next step(s). Dropping the tank is not a big deal. After doing 6 of them in the past 18-20 mths I've got replacing the fuel pump down to a 90 min job. I can provide you with step-by-step instructions if you'd like.

Frist, change the fuel filter (you'll need to do this anyway) and check the fuel pressure. If you've never done this on a Ford, you're in for a stuggle your 1st time. On an '01 the fuel pressure should be around 65-67 PSI at the Shrader valve. It amazes me when one inopative vehicle has multiple issues that keep it from being driven. What, did everything die at the same time? It reminds me of my '01 Sport Trac project last summer. That damn truck had so much stuff wrong with it it took me months to straighten it all out. Most of the issues were due to the previous owner's total mechanical incompidence.

 

[Harper]

from my experience the fuel pressure should just do more than "puke a little" when you hit the schrader valve with a pen. Thats basically all mine did. then its zero pressure until i cycle the key over and over to make the pump run. May very well be the filter. I will change that first.

as a side note...my 52 project mounty had a bad pump, i changed it and never got the tank back in the dang thang lol its sitting in my shop (the main reason for that is, i know i have a freeze plug out on the 98 so i know after i put in the tank (on the 98 mounty)my next move is to pull the entire engine trans to replace freeze plugs

I figure the previous owner had a bad filter and or pump, then ruined the starter due to a no start situation.
more on it later, friday i should have time to change the pump if i can get enough energy to lol

 

[Mustang Guy]

This. Logical next step(s). Dropping the tank is not a big deal. After doing 6 of them in the past 18-20 mths I've got replacing the fuel pump down to a 90 min job. I can provide you with step-by-step instructions if you'd like.

Frist, change the fuel filter (you'll need to do this anyway) and check the fuel pressure. If you've never done this on a Ford, you're in for a stuggle your 1st time. On an '01 the fuel pressure should be around 65-67 PSI at the Shrader valve. It amazes me when one inopative vehicle has multiple issues that keep it from being driven. What, did everything die at the same time? It reminds me of my '01 Sport Trac project last summer. That damn truck had so much stuff wrong with it it took me months to straighten it all out. Most of the issues were due to the previous owner's total mechanical incompidence.

Thanks, but I don't need any instructions for dropping a fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump. I've done many of them myself.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks, but I don't need any instructions for dropping a fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump. I've done many of them myself.

Actually I meant the offer for instructions on tank dropping for the OP, but you're welcome.

 

[Harper]

Ok so Mustang guy I see my fuel pressure is nearly zero, so after loosing my fuel line wrench, so I drive 42 miles round trip to get a new one and decided to pick up a fuel filter as well. So I find a very dirty filter, cycle key, puke out fresh fuel to a pan I had to catch it in. Then put it all back together and find good fuel pressure at schrader valve. Fuel pump appears to be working good.
Still no crank!
Crappy battery charger cable heating up on negative post... Delaying my trying again.
I did try a few times before that tho even with starter fluid and no start!!

 

[Harper]

I posted a few pictures in my gallery on here, showing the tool I used to remove the fuel filter and the new filter installed. Not much to it but if anyone needs to see it there it is.