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Brake Question

SwaintaN

Explorer Addict
Joined
March 15, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Carey, Ohio (Georgia Grown)
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 XLT
Ok, ran a lil low on oil, poped the hood, added oil and lucas. Then noticed at the back (close to the firewall) of the Brake Master Cylinder... there was fluid all over the place.... where it connects to the black thing.. (yeah i know, i dont know crap about cars) so my question(s) are
How hard is it to change the Brake Master Cylinder?
Anyone know what kind of brake lines those are, like ends and bubble etc?!
Do you use a propane torch to heat up bolts to get them loose?
 



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Are you sure it's just not power steering fluid? I know when I replaced my brakes and was doing some work, I'd turn the key to unlock the wheel, and pull the wheel, and the power steering reservoir would occasionally spit out some fluid.

If it's the brake booster, you might not want to drive it. How was the brake fluid level in the reservoir? Low? Normal?
 






Normal, its not low or anything, ran out and took pics.
471328_155.jpg

471328_154.jpg

You can see where its on the brake lines and on the black box it connects to. My brakes are working like normal... for my Ex at least... where you have to double pump to stop. Not low on fluid either. Ive just never seen that before on mine!
 






I don't know man.

In all honesty, that doesn't look good. If you have to drive it, just be extra careful. Might want to go by a brake shop and ask them. Just act like you're wanting to find out what's going on, and looking for an estimate to fix it. That's what I always do, lol
 


















i don't know either chris...if your seeing that much rust and stuff on the lower section of the booster then maybe a gasket has died wich means that theres not to much life left in the booster ,because you can't really see the inside ....maybe worse ! i would just go buy a rebuilt one ,sorry i don't have any advice on replacement seeing how i've never done one before.

but like josh said just take it to someone (close to your house;)) and see what they say .may only need a gasket (which i assume there would have to be one to make a air tight seal ) ....nowadays estimates are free !
 












ok so this is one of those things, im more so like fu**-it im buying a New Master and a Reman Booster and just gonna do it, i looked at the Haynes Manual, shouldnt take much longer then a couple hours...

SIDE NOTE: Talked to brake shop behind the house a way, he said that would be why it seems like i have to pump em to make it stop! SOOOO my side note is, there is another user on here, who had the same problems... maybe he should look at the booster as well, thanks guys!! :salute:
 






What do you mean by 'double pump to get it to stop'? Is/has the brake fluid been low? I don't see how you would need a booster and master cylinder. I would take some brake cleaner and squirt everything down and then look for signs of a leak. It could be that one of the lines is leaking, not the master cylinder

Also, I strongly suggest you hit all bolts and lines with some PB Blaster (after doing the brake clean test) and let it soak for at least 24 hours before trying to replace anything. The rust looks pretty nasty.
 






yeah lol, i should own stock in PBlaster, i have to spray everything with it, further looked into it, there is a small crack line on the Master at the top, the fluid gets low after like 4 months. Double pump = push break, push break again, so push push (hold) to make it work like a normal break, also there is separation from the booster and master. yeah im gonna start soaking them this weekend, since ill be doing it soon, if all else fails, neighbor has a propane torch, really cool thing is though, if im redoing them both, all i have to do is the bolts on the inside, and they aint rusted :D
 






Better hit all the bleeders with the PB blaster also. I still don't understand why you are replacing the booster, but good luck.
 






the shop said that is where the other leak is coming from, insdie the booster where it meets the master, and they were gonna charge around 325 in labor to fix and parts, so f that, just do it my self and replace the booster instead of fixing it... only a few dollars more but hey, at least it will work, lol

edit: the rear bleeders have been done already, they come loose really really easy, the front ones ill have to hit a whole lot!!!
 












i ended up not doing it.... money go to tight to quick.... i just rebleed them and sprayed the the rusty area on the booster... to help out for a while
 






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