Brake replacement: Do it yourself or at the dealer?

[96eb96]

In my experience Ford Rotors don't warp for a very long time. I know the ones on my truck lasted to 120K because I had all the prior service records. Even then they were drive-able but the wheel had shimmy. I replaced them with stock FORD pads(not motorcraft) and rotors and the brakes are perfect 40K later. Never any noise. A dealer said Ford parts are the highest quality because comebacks cost Ford serious money. And with online discounts the rotors were very competitively priced. I think like $15 more than whitebox back then.

The rotors said made in the US and Brazil, they weren't China Rotors. The rotors also look decent after driving in the salt, can't say the same about white box. No doubt they are better quality.
I've used many other brake brands on other cars (often premium) only to have noise here and there and dust.

White box rotors - YMMV. I've had them last many years and some fail very soon. Not that it is dangerous but they develop runout. The OEMs are designed with a special pattern internally. Not all aftermarket brands met or exceed those specs. I don't buy the hotspot or buildup theory - my dial gauge don't lie. Also the salt destroys and weakens the internal vanes. Also, check your wheel hubs when you do a brake job. I've seen them very out spec on cars and you are guaranteed to have pulsation if they aren't replaced.

 

[Napalm]

are you saying even the top of the line Centrics and Stop Techs are not up to par with the average rotor, or just the cheap mass produced ones? I would guess the billet 2 piece rotors would feel ever so slightly better in your hand than cast rotors?


from both sites
http://www.centricparts.com/products/centric-premium-brake-rotors
"Centric premium rotors feature a double disc ground, taper free finish. Double disc grinding ensures parallelism, eliminates run out and provides near perfect disc thickness variation (DTV). Double disc grinding leaves a non-directional finish on the friction surface area for more effective pad-rotor break in. This special finish also provides quieter and smoother stops. The surface Roughness production standard for Centric Premium Brake Rotors: RMS=64.3 or Ra=1.6 micro-meters (63 micro-inches)."


http://www.stoptech.com/products/rotors/rotors-overview
StopTech AeroRotors®

"StopTech's patented AeroRotors® are 2-piece replacement rotors featuring a billet aluminum AeroHat® and AeroRotor® friction ring. These rotors feature a patented AeroVane® optimal cooling vane design to improve rotor airflow, cooling and heat capacity. This improved directional design minimizes turbulence and flows up to 61% more air than any rotor tested. Better airflow means better cooling and less fade."

Note they are now Centric PREMIUM rotors - they do more steps to them to compete with better made other brands now. Price that specifically with say a wagner or bendix or other branded rotor and see they are closer in price. There didn't use to be a centric premium line. But yes in the past I've put centric parts on people's cars only to take them off in as little as 1 year due to pulsations and steering wheel shake at highway speed. and replace them with a better quality part - and they last significantly longer.

ON the aero rotors I've raced people that used those and for some cars they are all that is available. But I've also installed Stop tech big brake kits, and brembo and DBA. ONe thing I will say for stop tech big brake kits - they have pads available and they are standardized. But I'll also happily use any other pad maker - like CarboTech, Porterfield, Hawk or Axxis.

 

[reserved50]

I was worried because I recently bought the better Centrics but haven't put them on. The quality on them seemed pretty good, The place I bought them from did say stay away from their lower lines of rotors unless I drive the car very easy and pretty much avoid salty roads or water or they would rust out.

 

[Napalm]

I was worried because I recently bought the better Centrics but haven't put them on. The quality on them seemed pretty good, The place I bought them from did say stay away from their lower lines of rotors unless I drive the car very easy and pretty much avoid salty roads or water or they would rust out.

They aren't that bad.

But I did a quck rock auto search - there is a cheaper 30ish dollar centric rotor, but the wagner is 58. Motorcraft is 59 and then there is a centric preimum that's 67. but it's also pretty coated black etc etc. (something else I avoid).

So I wouldn't say they are that bad - but please buy the 50+ dollar models. You'll thank yourself next year when you still have smooth braking.

OH grease your shims - and the pad backs lightly. use brake grease (yes really for the chemistry) and if your car is 4-5 years old please flush out your brake lines with new clean fluid.

 

[chefduane]

When I did my brakes on my '98 I used Wagner BD125494's on the front, Raybestos Pro 6656R's on the rear (RA did not have Wagners for the rears for some reason) and I used Wagner Thermo Quiet semi metallic pads all the way around. Misc materials came to about $80, so with rotors and pads the total job was less than $300. I did not replace/rebuild the calipers. It took most of the day to do the job including bleeding, etc. Also, I do have stands and a compressor with an impact wrench so there was that previous expense, but those costs can be amortized over various repairs, maintenance... Still, $300 versus $720 ($180x4) seems like a no brainer to me. Just take your time, buy quality materials as suggested above, and if you have any questions just ask them here. That's what I did and 28k miles later I still get straight, true, sure stops, no shimmies or shakes, and my rotors have no gouges or scoring. Wagner says the Thermo Quiets are good for 50k under normal driving conditions. So at 232k or so (if the timing chains hold out) I slap on another set of pads for $50 and keep on truckin. Or Explorin' as at it were.

 

[Odrapnew]

When I did my brakes on my '98 I used Wagner BD125494's on the front, Raybestos Pro 6656R's on the rear (RA did not have Wagners for the rears for some reason) and I used Wagner Thermo Quiet semi metallic pads all the way around. Misc materials came to about $80, so with rotors and pads the total job was less than $300. I did not replace/rebuild the calipers. It took most of the day to do the job including bleeding, etc. Also, I do have stands and a compressor with an impact wrench so there was that previous expense, but those costs can be amortized over various repairs, maintenance... Still, $300 versus $720 ($180x4) seems like a no brainer to me. Just take your time, buy quality materials as suggested above, and if you have any questions just ask them here. That's what I did and 28k miles later I still get straight, true, sure stops, no shimmies or shakes, and my rotors have no gouges or scoring. Wagner says the Thermo Quiets are good for 50k under normal driving conditions. So at 232k or so (if the timing chains hold out) I slap on another set of pads for $50 and keep on truckin. Or Explorin' as at it were.

Actually, this brings up a question(might be a dumb one).


It’s $179/axle, is that the same as $179/corner or is it $179 for both fronts? Technically it does have 4 axles, however, I wouldn’t think they would quote a price per corner. Most places state “per axle” as in both fronts or both rears.


I don’t think I’ve ever paid someone to replace brakes on any of my vehicles, so I don’t know the shop lingo.

 

[Napalm]

Per axle means front or rear. not per wheel - or if someone is advertising that, they can be sued as the industry term is per axle. Look at your parts stores and the like. They sell the pads "per axle" so you'll get both sets of front pads, or rear in the same box.

so to speak.

But good question - that might not be evident to everyone.


OP if you don't have mechanic skills, or more importantly the confidence in the job work - do you happen to know someone who does? If you lived near me I'd be happy to help, but I try to make a point to teach people how to do the job if they want to learn it. It's easy stuff and mostly self evident - but if you've never hammered a brake rotor off a wheel hub it makes some people nervous.

I also like to focus on the inspections - I make sure to take out the pins, inspect them for issues, re grease, check the boots, . . . . . . . Again easy to do but it's often over looked and some shops ignore it for time.

OH you need a caliper rebuild. No the guy just didn't want to check them so it's easier to put a new in box built caliper on the car and get you our the door - and charge you for more parts and %.

If you don't have the confidence and don't have a helper - consider looking it up on the internets the various steps and video and making yourself a check list, or task card if it were. and then you have a hard print in hand - and walk down the check list.

 

[1995E]

Hey, everyone needs to know this before you do your own brake job. When you compress the caliper, you need a caliper tool that will both rotate the piston while compressing it or it will not compress. This is for the rears only. The fronts are the same old same old. Make sure you open the bleeder when you compress the piston or else you will push all the dirt back into the caliper which would cause it to seize since the rear calipers on the Explorer seem prone to seizing.

 

[chefduane]

Per axle means front or rear. not per wheel - or if someone is advertising that, they can be sued as the industry term is per axle. Look at your parts stores and the like. They sell the pads "per axle" so you'll get both sets of front pads, or rear in the same box.
But good question - that might not be evident to everyone.
OP if you don't have mechanic skills, or more importantly the confidence in the job work - do you happen to know someone who does? If you lived near me I'd be happy to help, but I try to make a point to teach people how to do the job if they want to learn it. It's easy stuff and mostly self evident - but if you've never hammered a brake rotor off a wheel hub it makes some people nervous.
I also like to focus on the inspections - I make sure to take out the pins, inspect them for issues, re grease, check the boots, . . . . . . . Again easy to do but it's often over looked and some shops ignore it for time.
OH you need a caliper rebuild. No the guy just didn't want to check them so it's easier to put a new in box built caliper on the car and get you our the door - and charge you for more parts and %.
If you don't have the confidence and don't have a helper - consider looking it up on the internets the various steps and video and making yourself a check list, or task card if it were. and then you have a hard print in hand - and walk down the check list.

Ah. I though 'per axle' mean 4 corners as technically there are 4 axles. I was unaware of the industry accepted lingo of 'per axle' meaning fronts or rears. Still, $360 v $300 is a savings, and you get the experience of doing the job. That also plays into your confidence comment. Doing a brake job (which I would consider relatively easy) might give one the confidence of trying other DIY Ex projects.

That said, there is also the convenience factor to consider. There have been some things I have had done on the Ex by a shop that I could have done myself simply due to time constraints and/or convenience issues. And having the appropriate tools and knowing how to use them is also a consideration, but I digress...

 

[182RG]

For anyone's safety on the road, I advise that you consider your car dealer for a brake replacement unless you are a very good mechanic and really knowledgeable about such matter.

Bull.

4 wheel kit from Rock Auto (Power Stop Ceramic) that includes pads and rotors. $230 delivered. Make sure you purchase the tool to "wind back" the piston on the rear calipers for the E-brake. It's also a good time to flush the brake fluid. I recommend using a Motive Power Bleeder.

Original brakes went 70,000 miles, and still had life left in them. I had a bit of pulsation that I wanted to clear up.

Lots of good Youtube videos on these procedures.

 

[Napalm]

Hey, everyone needs to know this before you do your own brake job. When you compress the caliper, you need a caliper tool that will both rotate the piston while compressing it or it will not compress. This is for the rears only. The fronts are the same old same old. Make sure you open the bleeder when you compress the piston or else you will push all the dirt back into the caliper which would cause it to seize since the rear calipers on the Explorer seem prone to seizing.

ON the compression - you can rent for a nominal fee from either of the big parts stores a brake pad change kit. comes in a box with an oversized C clamp that is similar to a ball joint press - and a collection of adapter plates that will fit various forms of caliper pistons. It is worth the rental and return. YOu get your rental fee back when you return it - so you're not actually out money. and on rear calipers it is just nice to have.

as far as opening the bleeder - that is a good point - just remember to put a tube on it or go rather slowly because you can squirt old nasty brake fluid pretty far. Also crack open the resovior lid just in case you get pressure backing up.

Old brake fluid by the way is some of the most corrosive stuff on the planet. It will remove paint, grease, nails, hair, and burns like a melonfarmer on your skin.

so be careful there. new brake fluid isn't much better