Broken #8 spark plug

[kbills]

2005 Explorer XLT 4WD 4.6L V8 2V - 108k miles

due to the apparently common issue of water coming down the windshield, in to the engine compartment, and then landing in the #7 and #8 wells, I ended up breaking plug #8 a few weeks ago while trying to change plugs. Bottom half of plug (threading and procelain/electrode) are still in the head. My usual shop did not want to touch it without pulling the head (which requires engine removal). A friend with a shop had a couple ideas - most promising being a mobile machining shop who has done this for him. But the machine shop said they can't do anything with the porcelain still in there. I have tried chisels, punches, etc, and can't make a dent in the porcelain.

This is a 2V engine, and plugs are different than the common 3V issue that Lisle makes a tool for. Unfortunately, that is all I can find info on the internet about.

So, any tips for getting the porcelain out, besides removing the head? Trying to exhaust all options before going that route.

 

[XploX]

So the hex head is still intact?
Just fill the well with penetrant and let it set over night. Then tighten slightly, just enough to move it, and unthread it.

Removing the engine to remove the heads is recommended, but it can be done with the engine still in place.

 

[kbills]

So the hex head is still intact?
Just fill the well with penetrant and let it set over night. Then tighten slightly, just enough to move it, and unthread it.

Removing the engine to remove the heads is recommended, but it can be done with the engine still in place.

no hex. broken flush at the bottom of the well.

 

[XploX]

It sounds like the head will have to come off. It will probably need drilled out and the debris will get in the cylinder. From the chamber side, it may be possible to get a bite on the bottom and work it out.
With the threads being aluminum, take care using any force. If it's stuck enough to snap the plug, it can pull the threads.

 

[Joe in NY]

+1 on head removal. This is the kind of issue where you just want it done right. Too much can go wrong far too easily in this case. Best of luck.

 

[kbills]

i figured i would be removing the head (or having it done, I should say). Was just throwing out that last Hail Mary toss hoping someone had a home fix that would work. So it will sit for a few months while I save up to get it fixed (luckily still have my old pickup as backup). Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Joe in NY]

you could start slowly taking it apart bit by your self. Pictures, quart sized bags, penetrating oil, and patience. For each item put the bolts in a separate bag. (IE Alternator bolts in a bag, store the two together.) This way you can slowly work your way to the head and even get it removed and then send the head to the mechanic. Save much $$$ if you have the time for it. Could esily spend a week slowly tearing it down and then get it repaired vs waiting two months to save up.

 

[kbills]

you could start slowly taking it apart bit by your self. Pictures, quart sized bags, penetrating oil, and patience. For each item put the bolts in a separate bag. (IE Alternator bolts in a bag, store the two together.) This way you can slowly work your way to the head and even get it removed and then send the head to the mechanic. Save much $$$ if you have the time for it. Could esily spend a week slowly tearing it down and then get it repaired vs waiting two months to save up.

I had planned on doing that until I read (in multiple sources - Haynes manual, online sources, and the mechanic indicated) that engine removal is required. That definitely gets beyond my comfort zone - ie, make matters worse. Right now I can drive it to the shop on 7 cylinders. Just gonna cost me in labor, but it will be done right. Changing spark plugs has never cost me so much.... but I should have done them 20k ago.

 

[Joe in NY]

I just did mine this spring at 89K. But I had already removed them and never seized the threads 3 years ago at 65K. So they were no issue coming out.

Bummer about engine removal... I'm not a fan of these OHC motors. The 4.6 is so physically big that you can't work on crap in the engine compartment and its only 281CUIN! A Ford 351W is physically smaller in every aspect than this obese and gutless motor. With the 351W you wouldn't A) have the spark-plug issue and B) would easily be able to pull the head in vehicle. I'd be interesting swap a 351 into one of these..... lol

That's one great thing about GM still being OHV. There is loads of room to work in the engine bays and the engines are smaller. We had to do a 15 minute, 10pm, side of the road alternator swap on a road trip. Easy peasy. But I digress.

 

[TechGuru]

I just did mine this spring at 89K. But I had already removed them and never seized the threads 3 years ago at 65K. So they were no issue coming out.

Bummer about engine removal... I'm not a fan of these OHC motors. The 4.6 is so physically big that you can't work on crap in the engine compartment and its only 281CUIN! A Ford 351W is physically smaller in every aspect than this obese and gutless motor. With the 351W you wouldn't A) have the spark-plug issue and B) would easily be able to pull the head in vehicle. I'd be interesting swap a 351 into one of these..... lol

That's one great thing about GM still being OHV. There is loads of room to work in the engine bays and the engines are smaller. We had to do a 15 minute, 10pm, side of the road alternator swap on a road trip. Easy peasy. But I digress.

If I were to put a non Ford engine in one it would be a 5.7L HEMI, lol.