Broken bolts in front yoke

[ZWilson07]

Man, I really appreciate it, I had found the straps on o Reilly website earlier, can't remember the lengths, checked there and rock auto for the yoke, I have access to an impact and all that, just wasn't quite ready to tear the diff completely down till I'm ready to 're gear this summer. Would like to get awd going, I'm only home like a week out the month, so I normally order everything so it's there when I'm home and just do the work when I get there

You're welcome.

What was the sizing and length that OReilly was showing?

Also the front pinion flange isn't on rockauto, only the rear. I had looked there already previously and numerous times now today. I just sent them an email about the bolts.

There is a good chance that you won't be able to break loose that front pinion flange nut with just an impact unless you have a strong one. I had to use my big one to break the rear one loose, not to mention if you are going to try and count the turns, you really almost have to do it by hand.

When I did the rear, I not only marked and counted the rotations, I also measured the distance that the pinion was sticking out of the nut just to make sure in case I lost count or to double check. My pinion seal lasted a few weeks which is why I finally decided to tear it down and do it all the proper way with a new crush sleeve. Some have gotten by with it, others ruining the pinion bearings but like I said the rear is easier to do in the truck than the front.

 

[4BYDIG]

It says 1 1/16 of? Have a picture, but can't remember how to get it on here lol

 

[ZWilson07]

It says 1 1/16 of? Have a picture, but can't remember how to get it on here lol

I think the 1 1/16 is the OD for the joints/bearings.

Look at my above rockauto screenshot, the top two show 1 1/16 but they aren't talking about the bolts in that measurement. The bottom two are measurements for the bolts depending on if your 4x4 or AWD. At least that is how I took it. I contacted them to double check and know for sure. Just waiting on a reply.

 

[ZWilson07]

Found the factory part number for the front yoke.

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/oe-ford/6l2z4851a?search_str=6L2Z4851A

 

[4BYDIG]

You my friend are a lifesaver, I'm either ordering one Friday, or going to try to find a used one.

 

[ZWilson07]

You my friend are a lifesaver, I'm either ordering one Friday, or going to try to find a used one.

Sounds good. Be sure to get a new pinion seal for the front as well. Might as well change it while you're in there.

If you do get one out of a junkyard, be sure to check for a groove on the pinion flange/yoke. The pinion seal usually wears a groove in them after awhile especially if it is a high mileage vehicle.

 

[4BYDIG]

Will do, hopefully it won't be too terrible to replace, I'd like to do the method where you count the turns. I don't drive it a whole lot, less than a week a month, and was planning to go regearthis summer and do it all correctly, 315s bogging me down some

 

[ZWilson07]

Will do, hopefully it won't be too terrible to replace, I'd like to do the method where you count the turns. I don't drive it a whole lot, less than a week a month, and was planning to go regearthis summer and do it all correctly, 315s bogging me down some

You should be fine or at least I hope it works long enough for you, there is just simply no way to know for sure with that method you know. Just for clarification, the reason why often times the "quick" method doesn't work long term is due to the crush sleeve. The crush sleeve is actually a metal ring that is "crushed" when you tighten down the pinion nut, and it is what sets the pinion bearing preload. When you just try to remove the nut, since the crush sleeve is metal, there is no way to really "reset" the preload it had from before. It is simply a one and done part.

Putting the nut back exactly where it was or a little farther is a way to try and keep the preload like it was, but there isn't a big margin of error and it isn't guaranteed that the preload with be back to where it needs to be. You can of course check the pinion bearing preload with a beam style torque wrench but it requires the carrier to be pulled out of the diff to check. Which of course if you were already that far, then it wouldn't be a big deal to put in a new crush sleeve lol.

 

[ZWilson07]

Another thread where I asked him to measure the bolts he had from his 98 AWD.

Looks like 1/4-28 x 0.75 is correct like I was thinking.