Broken torsion bolt...please help

[ddrag]

Hello all,
I finished my warrior shackle installation a few days ago. I live in Illinois and the rust on the bolts was plentiful. All came out fairly easily except one which I spent more than 8 hours pounding and pressing on. A ball joint tool did the trick but was still not easy. After this I soaked the torsion bolts with pb so I could lift the front later. These surprisingly were not rusty. Tonight I got to this and started with the drivers side. There was about a half an inch of thread below the block it threads into and was well soaked in penetrating oil. I started to turn it with a breaker bar and was able to turn it a little more than a full turn and out of nowhere the head snapped off. I did not want to start the other one in fear that the same thing would happen. I have read the threads on replacing the bolts and what to get....there is a fastenal a few miles from my house. The bolt is now flush with the block. If I get tension off the bar will the block just push out? It looks like it has slots that just sit on the mount. It would be a lot easier to remove the bolt if I could put it in the vice. I do not think a screw extractor will remove the bolt. Also what is the method to take the tension off of the bar to get this done? I have many tools and access to a shop but no tension bar tool. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[swshawaii]

Biggest mistake many people make is not relieving most of the preload on the torsion bars by lifting the tires off the ground. Secondly, the torsion bolts are heavily coated with heat activated thread lock compound, the same blue stuff used on the body mount bolts. Heating the tip of the bolts for 30 seconds make them much easier to turn regardless of rust. Since the bolt is broken flush with the threaded block, a screw extractor may be your only resource to remove that hardened M12x1.75 bolt. Two arm pullers are available for loan at many auto parts stores.

 

[Convict1997]

Just finished putting mine back in. The block that the bolt threads into does just lay in there. Once the tension from the bar is off of it, you should be able to pull it out. There are two ways to remove the torsion bar. I just finished with my front suspension literally 30 min ago and I tried both. First, using a two jaw puller, attach the jaws around the frame around the torsion bar key. There is a divot in the bottom of the key where the bolt on the puller will rest. This will apply upward pressure on the bar and take the pressure off the block. The second way is to disconnect the lower control arm from the spindle and shock. Pivot the lower arm down as far as it will go. The further down it goes, the more tension is released from the bar. I'd suggest using the puller method unless you already have to take the rest of it apart. My Haynes manual recommends using a heavy duty 2 jaw with a bridge to keep the jaws from spreading. I used a regular 2/3 jaw with no bridge and didn't have any problem.

 

[boominXplorer]

I have an extra block and bolt if you need it.

 

[funhousejoe]

i just did the warrior shackles a couple months ago very solid quality product

 

[ddrag]

Thanks for all of the help. I appreciate the quick responses. I did make sure to lift it off the ground and was on jack stands. The bolt turned without too much trouble at first and then became tough after the first complete turn. After reading through many many threads on this before starting nowhere does it ever mention that the bolts were put in with threadlocker and it makes sense now that this was probably my issue. Boomin I will definitely hit you up if I need the new block. I could not find a replacement anywhere.

I love the effectiveness of the shackles. The ride is exactly how I wanted it other than the fact that it is leaning forward at the moment due to this issue. Got a little over 2" with the warriors (measured again after two days and didn't drop much).

I should be able to rip out that block tomorrow and will torch it and see if it comes out.

Thanks again

 

[swshawaii]

After removing the block you have adequate exposed threads, use two jam nuts to remove the bolt after heating. GL

 

[ezg594]

Biggest mistake many people make is not relieving most of the preload on the torsion bars by lifting the tires off the ground. Secondly, the torsion bolts are heavily coated with heat activated thread lock compound, the same blue stuff used on the body mount bolts. Heating the tip of the bolts for 30 seconds make them much easier to turn regardless of rust. Since the bolt is broken flush with the threaded block, a screw extractor may be your only resource to remove that hardened M12x1.75 bolt. Two arm pullers are available for loan at many auto parts stores.

this is what i did. big mistake.
i bent my torsion bolt and did not proceed with the torsion twist lift.

does anybody know what size/type is the torsion bolt for a 2002 explorer sport trac 4x4?

 

[swshawaii]

does anybody know what size/type is the torsion bolt for a 2002 explorer sport trac 4x4?

As mentioned in post #2 the stock bolts are M12 with a 1.75 thread pitch.
IIRC, stock bolts are 63.5mm length, class 10.9 with dog points. Most used 90-100mm length for a 2" lift. Check Fastenal.

Bolts For Torsion Bar
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153699

Recent thread using body mount bolts.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416640

 

[ezg594]

As mentioned in post #2 the stock bolts are M12 with a 1.75 thread pitch.
IIRC, stock bolts are 63.5mm length, class 10.9 with dog points. Most used 90-100mm length for a 2" lift. Check Fastenal.

Bolts For Torsion Bar
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153699

Recent thread using body mount bolts.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416640

thanks a lot!!!

 

[ddrag]

Alright...so I could not get the bolts right away. Fastenal had to order them and because of a snow storm they were late. When they finally arrived they had ordered the wrong bolts even though I specified that I wanted fully threaded. The store I normally go to just closed and the employee at the the other Champaign location was a huge dick and said that they didn't carry fully threaded bolts. I found them on there website. I had enough so I ordered from McMaster-Carr as they have everything. Price and shipping is high but you usually get what you want.

They only had 10.9 8mm allan bolts in 100mm so I got them. Having worked on some tractor implements that used allan bolts, I know they strip easily. But 8mm is pretty large. I ordered a impact 1 piece 8mm 1/2" socket.

Since the bolt is hardened and impact sockets are softer metal than standard, do any of you see this as a difficult job? Normally, when the old threadlock is burned off (and broken bolts are removed), this should not take too much torque to lift about 1.75" right?

Last question: These bolts should be threadlocked again once I get to height. Is there a threadlock out there that would give me about 15 minutes to adjust and measure before it locks up? I use the blue locktite most of the time and I found it starts to harden after about a minute or so. It is also freezing here now and the garage is not heated. This may have an effect as well.

 

[sr139fox]

Might want to run a tap down the threads to clean them out. I know I would. Dave p.

 

[ddrag]

Definitely a good idea. I have a rethreading kit that would work great.

Anyone have any experience with green (wicking) threadlocker? I think this may be perfect to lock the threads once the lift is dialed in. That way I can adjust repeatedly without having to worry about the threadlocker locking before I got it high enough.

I found this page describing all of the different types of threadlock (and there are many). It is quite interesting.
http://www.type2.com/library/chemicals/loctite.htm

 

[ddrag]

Just finished with the TT. I used a 2 piece jaw puller to hold the key where it was and had to drill out the broken bolt and extract it. Heating with a torch worked wonders. I got the new 100mm 8mm hex 12mmx1.75 bolt put in and got it to height. I moved on to the passenger side and there was quite a bit of thread left to work with so I used the stock bolt. The original measurements on both sides was 33 3/8" from the floor to the middle of the wheel well. After the twist I got both sides dialed to 35 1/4" (just under 2"). The warrior shackles got me to 36 3/4" on both sides in the rear so I am now almost level. I am really enjoying the tighter ride. Thank god this is finished. I ended up using the green penetrating threadlocker. I will post if I notice any issues with this. Thanks to all of those who helped with this.

 

[swshawaii]

Well done! Have the alignment checked, camber and toe changes any time you alter ride height. Camber kits may be needed.