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cam chain casset

Tech By Trade

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Your mom's house
Year, Model & Trim Level
07 Sport Trac
Hi all,
Anyone have a guide to change the front timing chain tensioner on a 07 v6? Mine grenaded today. the chain is still there, and the engine still runs fine, but you can sure hear that chain a rattling on the way home today.

The shop told me they wouldn't touch it, they want to swap the engine, at only 2k in labour. F*&^ that!

Luckily my inlaws left for palm spring this morning, so I have a truck to drive for 2 weeks. 2 weeks to finish the job. I think I will start with a compression test just to make sure there are no head issues on the driver side.

P.S. anyone want to buy a sport trac cheap? I see a 2012, red tacoma in my not too distant future.
 



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Do any of my Canadian neighbors have the OTC 6488 set for sale or rent? It would make life a lot easier. 228 on amazon, and I can probably dump it for 2/3 of that when I am done.
 






P.S. anyone want to buy a sport trac cheap? I see a 2012, red tacoma in my not too distant future.

Sorry to hear of your troubles.
I wish I could help but all I can say is don't do it.
Take it from someone that has been there and although briefly done that.
You will miss it!

I hope you get back on the road quickly!
 












Yep, I have already. Looks like a great guide. Found a fellow in Calgary with the kit so I may see if anyone is coming this way. If no amazon is selling it for 229 CAD. Rocking btw 200 and 210 psi on all the cylinders according to my princess auto compression tester so I don't think any valves got bent. What an atomic pile of garbage these trucks are. Even my sunfire was more reliable than this pile. Im going to write a great in-depth review they should put up as a sticky as a warning to anyone buying one of these piles of $H!#.
 






I'm right there with you!
Only 30k on my 08 with bad cam phasers!
Very disturbing to me as you know from my "farewell" thread!
 






This is the icing on the cake. Had I done all the repairs in a shop that I have done since buying this pile of garbage it would have run up close to 10K. Does Ford expect their trucks to be thrown out after 7 years or 200K kms? The original 4.0 could easily get 300K miles before any type of a melt down. Just bolt on a couple of over head cams, and swap out the original and the push rods with a jack shaft and you have a time bomb waiting to blow. On an interference engine none the less. Surprised they didn't go with a timing belt, thats the only thing that could be worse. There is a few engineers that need a few good kicks in the nuts over there. Now they are plumbing in a turbo and trying to squeeze more hp out of the same garbage. I can't wait until they get a few KM and a few years on them.
Got my eye on a nice looking silver tacoma now. 2011, 70K. Button this bomb up and trade it off.
 












All of the Ford SOHC 4.0L V6 engines are basically the same. Click on "My helpful threads" in my signature for threads related to your engine.

Hey Street rod, How do you tell if it is TDC on Intake or Exhaust stroke? Which valve is intake, the front or the back on cylinder 1?

Pulled the pan and found a bunch of plastic, and a bit of metal. No brass in the filter, so here's to hoping I lucked out. Top end is tonight.
 






Tdc

Cylinder%20key%204_0%20SOHC.jpg

TDCPntr.jpg

There are two timing marks (lines) on the damper: 10 deg BTDC and 0 deg TDC (red arrow). Neither valve will be depressed when the crankshaft is at TDC on the compression stroke. If the driver side valve cover is off the "nub" on the camshaft for the camshaft position sensor will be above the axis of the camshaft.
ToolsLft.jpg
 






View attachment 81316
View attachment 81318
There are two timing marks (lines) on the damper: 10 deg BTDC and 0 deg TDC (red arrow). Neither valve will be depressed when the crankshaft is at TDC on the compression stroke. If the driver side valve cover is off the "nub" on the camshaft for the camshaft position sensor will be above the axis of the camshaft.
View attachment 81319

Thanks, so neither valve open at 0deg on 1 is tdc on compression. I was wondering because the cams are independnt if you could just install it on the exhaust stroke at 0deg as intake and it would still work. Is the 4.0 a wasted spark engine? (sparks on both intake and power)
 












Yes, both the V8 and the V6 2nd generation Explorers use wasted spark ignition systems.

What gaskets does a guy need to just do the front one? Can the oil pan, valve cover and intake gaskets be reused. they appear to be rubber.
 






reusing gaskets

I've removed and reinstalled my valve covers several times without replacing the gaskets but now one is leaking. The rubber eventually compresses too much to seal. I would not reuse the upper or lower intake manifold gaskets without applying RTV blue to seal them. RTV blue can also be used to seal the valve cover gaskets but it takes time to remove for a second reuse. The timing cover can be removed without removing the water pump so that saves a gasket. Check the condition of the EGR tube O ring and be careful not to damage it when removing and installing the upper intake manifold. It becomes very brittle from the exhaust gas heat.
 






I've removed and reinstalled my valve covers several times without replacing the gaskets but now one is leaking. The rubber eventually compresses too much to seal. I would not reuse the upper or lower intake manifold gaskets without applying RTV blue to seal them. RTV blue can also be used to seal the valve cover gaskets but it takes time to remove for a second reuse. The timing cover can be removed without removing the water pump so that saves a gasket. Check the condition of the EGR tube O ring and be careful not to damage it when removing and installing the upper intake manifold. It becomes very brittle from the exhaust gas heat.

Sounds good.
On a side note, any idea why the right rear inside cam cap bolt would have the head sheered off? It does look like someone has been in there before because of tape and zip ties that weren't factory on the wiring. I hope they didn't over torque that bolt. Also, do you need to pull the transmission right out, or can you just disconnect it. I know you have to pull the cross member to get the y pipe out, but can you just throw it back in after you are done?
 






tightens counter-clockwise

. . . On a side note, any idea why the right rear inside cam cap bolt would have the head sheered off?

Many people forget that the rear camshaft sprocket retaining bolt loosens clockwise and tightens counter-clockwise. Also, if the lever tool in the timing kit is used it multiplies the torque so a lower value should be applied.

. . . Also, do you need to pull the transmission right out, or can you just disconnect it. I know you have to pull the cross member to get the y pipe out, but can you just throw it back in after you are done?

I'm not familiar with the configuration of the Sport Trac so I can't help you about pulling the transmission.
 






Many people forget that the rear camshaft sprocket retaining bolt loosens clockwise and tightens counter-clockwise. Also, if the lever tool in the timing kit is used it multiplies the torque so a lower value should be applied.



I'm not familiar with the configuration of the Sport Trac so I can't help you about pulling the transmission.

Actually its the bolt that holds the cap on the camshaft itself. Like a main bearing cap. the head is sheared off. My guess is over torque by a previous "mechanic". Not sure why he would be messing around in there.

As for the config, its identical to the 4th gen explorer to the back of the cab. The parts are all swappable.
 






Anyone know what size bolts need to mount the engine on the engine stand? I'm in the city today and would like to pick some up before I head home. With any luck I will have the engine out by tomorrow afternoon the way things are going.

Also, is there any point in changing the oil pump while I have it apart, just to be on the safe side or is that just making work?
 






Just ordered my parts. Went with rock auto enginetech cassette. I decided to change my oil pump while I was in there, just in case anything made it past the screener on the sump. I went with white bear for bolts and the pump. They ship USPS to canada which saves piles in brokerage fees over UPS via Tasca. Grand total is 650 right now for parts, gaskets and shipping. Found a used otc tool kit for 150, the guy is throwing in an oil filter and jug of 5w30 for ***** and giggles. Add up the extra tools I have purchased, this repair should come in around 1000 Canadian. Guess I will have to add this one to the earlier post I made about this lemon. That brings my repair total, done by me to around 2500 bucks since I bought it. If it were done in a repair shop, my guess would be around $15000 worth of repairs on this engineering marvel of fords.

Yes, that's right, fifteen thousand dollars worth of shop repairs.
 



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You really need some luck. I think this problem came up AFTER your advice to me about keeping the extended warranty.
 






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