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cam chain casset

Lol, extended warranty on these fine mechanical units is a must.
I received my parts from Rock Auto on Christmas eve. A great deal, ordered them the Thursday before and even with the Christmas rush they made great time. There are no markings on the cam chain cassettes but according to the import documents required by the Canadian border crossing for NAFTA the Engine tech timing set is manufactured in China and the gasket set in Taiwan. They are identical to the ford ones, just blue plastic instead of oil colored white.
I was just going to change the balance shaft tensioners as I didn't get new sprockets and there is no way i am spending another 400 bucks on a new balancer just for the sprocket when the rest is fine. Not to any surprise of mine the chain was stretched. When I pulled the pin on the tensioner it was still loose. I ended up swapping the chain. Same with the crank to jackshaft chain. the tensioner was fine but it wasn't making contact with the chain. I did splurge for the 120 dollar sprocket on that one. It just doesnt seem right to be putting this much plastic into an engine.
I also rounded up all my pieces of old tensioner. I have all the metal, and am short about 3 inches of plastic from the front tensioner. My guess is those 3 inches are the shredded plastic I found in the sump.
I am beginning to wonder if the dealer I bought this unit from swapped the odometer or found a way to roll it back because this thing acts closer to 300k than 190k kms. Funny they aren't around anymore.
 



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looks like the engine tech kit is missing one of the rings for the hydraulic tensioners. Just my luck, guess I will be giving rock auto a call in the morning.

Update,
Looks like they are going to cover the cost of the replacement. Bad thing is our local stealership wants 15 bucks for a washer. It seem obvious why I order my parts out of the US.
 






well crap. Tousley/White Bear decided to ship via UPS instead of the USPS i specifically paid for and requested. So much for saving money ordering from the US. Im sure those clown shoes at UPS will want an arm and a leg to release my hostage parts, they always do. Worst shipper ever!

Update: Yep, 58 dollar surcharge to fill out 2 pieces of paper. Those clowns should be charged with extortion.

Update: Looks like Tousley/White bear is going to refund the difference. Good business practice, as it was their error.
 






Got the engine mostly together this weekend. Not impressed with the enginetech gaskets. The cradle gasket was a pain to get the rear seal inserted in the block. If it leaks from anywhere that is going to be it. Other then that my only issue was that my torque wrench doesn't go left hand for the right hand bolt. Went and picked up one today so I am going to retorque the right hand cam bolt after work and bolt down the valve cover. Other than that I left the intake off so I can see the transmission bolts when I install them. i also left the thermostat so I can fill the block with antifreeze before I install it. Got some pics of the bottom end but I forgot when I was putting the top together. May post them when I get time.
 






Well, just got back from her maiden voyage. So far so good. No leaks, no ticks at startup, and no warning lights. Big thanks to 2000streetrod for his guide and answering my questions as they popped up. There are a few differences in the 07 but they are pretty damn close. As for the ford service manual, I did things a bit different but they were pretty close. I can see why they want you to pull the transmission, but I didn't bother, either way would be the same amount of time. Perhaps I will do a write up when I get a chance but its getting late and I need to be at work at 730.
 






She flung a code this morning, not sure what it is yet. little bit of a sputter at idle. My guess is a vacuum leak or one of the intake gaskets. Gotta go grab a new code reader as mine is MIA.
 






Congrats on getting it back together. Hopefully just a quick fix on that code.
 






Strangely enough I came to the forum to talk about this very issue which I am again experience today (had same problem about a year and a half ago)
I love this truck - looks and utility - but hate the motor. Have had several issues (radiator, thermostat housing leaking twice). Now the driver's side timing chain is broke. Dealer says would be between $3 and $4,000 for repair.

I wish I had the skills to do it my self. The local shop I trust can't do it. A remanufactured engine would be around $5,000 parts and labor.

Might be putting mine up for sale as well. I know my wife wants me out of it and into a more economical and reliable car.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Encouragement? lol Thank you.
 






Well, the last time I thought I was going to have to work on a 4.0, I just threw a 5.0 in the bay instead.

Seriously, sorry to hear where you are at. We had to take a dive on a Mazda MPV some years ago due to a transmission problem at 60k that they wouldn't cover. Traded it on a Hyundai.

Surely you can find a shop that can do it?
 






misfire on 2. swapped the plug with 1, still there. swapped the wire with 3 still there. swapped the coil with 5, still there. Next up to bat is the injector on 2.

Probably recheck compression on 2, it was good when I took it apart but with this jalopie who knows what could have happened.
 






Strangely enough I came to the forum to talk about this very issue which I am again experience today (had same problem about a year and a half ago)
I love this truck - looks and utility - but hate the motor. Have had several issues (radiator, thermostat housing leaking twice). Now the driver's side timing chain is broke. Dealer says would be between $3 and $4,000 for repair.

I wish I had the skills to do it my self. The local shop I trust can't do it. A remanufactured engine would be around $5,000 parts and labor.

Might be putting mine up for sale as well. I know my wife wants me out of it and into a more economical and reliable car.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Encouragement? lol Thank you.

Go and check the wreckers for an engine under 100k. Ranger and mustang should fit of the same gen. I found 3 at salvage here for 1500 each. In hind site I should have just picked one up. Swap isn't too bad, local shop quoted me 2k but I could easily do it myself again in a weekend. You just need to swap the fuel rail and intake and motor mounts. Then put it up for sale.
 






Thanks for the info - that's a great idea I'm considering - a used motor in working condition (for now) will get me a little more trade in value than the one making the noise it has now lol

Although I really want to buy a new motor for it so I don't have to give it up.

Side note: I totally understand your frustration since I'm dealing with the same issue. I do however love these trucks - it looks great, it rides great, it has been perfect for my lifestyle (besides dumping money into motor repairs)

I wish I would have saved longer and found a V8 model with decent mileage. Oh well... live and learn.

Thanks again - keep us updated on your situation.
 






Pulled the intake this weekend, replaced the injector seals, reseated the intake, plugs and wires for s&*$# and giggles. She runs alright but I'm about 15lbs low on the cylinder that had the misfire. It goes away at higher RPM. Im guessing a lash adjuster, spring or valve. I don't have the cash to rebuild the head right now, so I may try a bit of sea foam and hope it loosens up.
 












I don't think it likes you touching it...
 






Well, pulled the injector, sure enough, oring on the top of #5 was split and the valley was full of fuel. Figured I would pull the valve cover on #2 to see what I could see and ill be damned if one of my 3 day old NGK plug wire didnt manage to pull the core out of the boot on #1 . WHEN WILL IT END!. Time to put that lifetime warranty to use. For 80 bucks it better get replaced for free. As for the lifter, lobe looks good, lifter/lash adjuster looks good, and the spring looks fine. If I had to guess I would say its the intake causing the lower compression but its just a guess. the spring seemed not as taught as the exhaust when pressing with a screwdriver with the lobe off of it. Just a guess though.

200 Canadian for the tool to remove the lifter and replace the spring I think may be an issue? or 100 bucks for a gasket and bolt and the cost of a machine shop to change the valve, spring and lifter? I will give the seafoam another week as it only has about 30kms on it before that injector o-ring went and put the pile of junk out of commission for another 2 days.
 






End of the Saga. After 3 sets of plug wires to find a set that was good (what is NGK coming to?) and a exploded injector O-ring on 2 she is running 100%. If i didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any. Anyways, she is running as good as the day I bought her. Kind of have a squeak coming from the alternator, with any luck it will be nothing and go away. Hopefully I can get another year out of her before I can get something else. Thanks for all the support.
 






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