Can I bypass brake hydraulic control unit?

[DontKnowJack]

...or whatever it's called? Brakes went out. Had a cracked rubber line on front and leaky wheel cylinder on rear. Replaced everything. Master cylinder, calipers, wheel cylinders, pads and shoes. Getting straight fluid from bleeder valves, still very little pedal. Can feel a little brake action and stops eventually but not drivable. 2 lines from master cylinder go into this block with electric motor on it. 3 lines come out of this thing. Can I cut the lines and bypass this thing. I could care less about ABS, I just need it to stop. Most of my warning lights stay on anyway,. I need someone that knows brakes to tell me if this will work. I've read similar situations in this forum but no definitive answers. "Ford dealer has a special tool for bleeding that they don't even have anymore"...etc.

Thanks

 

[Anime]

I wouldn't mess with disabling the ABS until the unit actually goes out.

It can take awhile to bleed the entire system. Make sure you are moving in a systematic way "longest line first", with the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front, a few times each. Otherwise you are just pushing fluid around, and you will never fully bleed the system as air will stay trapped in the middle. Be sure you are bleeding fluid into a small container of brake fluid and using a clear line so you can see the air bubbles coming out of the caliper/cylinder. The line should be IN the fluid at the bottom of the container. Just pushing fluid out into a dry container risks getting air back into the system, not being able to see the air bubbles makes it really hard to tell if you are accomplishing anything or when they are coming out or going back in.

The "special tool" Ford dealers used to have is for if you replace the ABS module and have to bleed a completely new dry system, not if you're just replacing the usual external parts. I have replaced the entire system aside from the ABS module and hard lines as well, and it took awhile to bleed all the air out but it was worth it.

With quality components, the 2-door Sport stops really good. I'd say keep the ABS intact since it's going to be more hassle to mess with it and fabricate new lines to bypass it. Work on bleeding it, make sure the connections are tight, and you should have good brakes soon if you did a good job putting everything back together.

 

[DontKnowJack]

I wouldn't mess with disabling the ABS until the unit actually goes out.

It can take awhile to bleed the entire system. Make sure you are moving in a systematic way "longest line first", with the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front, a few times each. Otherwise you are just pushing fluid around, and you will never fully bleed the system as air will stay trapped in the middle. Be sure you are bleeding fluid into a small container of brake fluid and using a clear line so you can see the air bubbles coming out of the caliper/cylinder. The line should be IN the fluid at the bottom of the container. Just pushing fluid out into a dry container risks getting air back into the system, not being able to see the air bubbles makes it really hard to tell if you are accomplishing anything or when they are coming out or going back in.

The "special tool" Ford dealers used to have is for if you replace the ABS module and have to bleed a completely new dry system, not if you're just replacing the usual external parts. I have replaced the entire system aside from the ABS module and hard lines as well, and it took awhile to bleed all the air out but it was worth it.

With quality components, the 2-door Sport stops really good. I'd say keep the ABS intact since it's going to be more hassle to mess with it and fabricate new lines to bypass it. Work on bleeding it, make sure the connections are tight, and you should have good brakes soon if you did a good job putting everything back together.

Thanks Anime, I'll bleed a little longer.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I also find it helpful to give a few sharp jabs while pressing the brake pedal. The shock can often help dislodge stubborn air pockets. I've seen a few air bubbles come out when doing this, on a few different vehicles.

Since you don't have to worry about popping a seal on your MC, get vigorous with the pumping.

 

[DontKnowJack]

Thanks

 

[jd4242]

You got air in the abs unit..very hard to remove without special tool..you need to get the abs unit to activate. .usually taking it on a dirt road and locking up the brakes at low speed will kick the abs on and air will be released. .i also think you can put the rear up on jack stands, put in gear and slam on the breaks..it will see the front arnt spinning but rear are taking a second to stop so it will kick abs in thinking the front is locked up and sliding. .

 

[DontKnowJack]

I'll try the jack-stand method. As of right now this thing wouldn't slide on an icy road, much less gravel. Plan to bleed a couple quarts through on Sunday.

Thanks

 

[jd4242]

I'll try the jack-stand method. As of right now this thing wouldn't slide on an icy road, much less gravel. Plan to bleed a couple quarts through on Sunday.

Thanks

It wont slide because there is air in the abs..a tire or too needs to break traction,how ever you can get one tire to stop spinning and one to keep spinning. .you should feel the pedal pulse, then bleed after..may need to do a couple times.your never get that air out otherwise

 

[DontKnowJack]

Gravel roads are plentiful here so I decided to try that method. Bled each wheel 10 more times and headed for the gravel road, only 1/4 mile from home. Got some brake action out of left front wheel. Run to the end of 2nd gear and slam on brakes. Feeling a little pulse now getting front wheel to slide for a second. Two miles of this and getting front left and right rear to lock up for a second. Bled each wheel 10 more times. No air in lines. Repeat gravel road trip. More slammin and slidin. I got brakes!

Thanks jd4242 and Natenkiki2004.

 

[jd4242]

Gravel roads are plentiful here so I decided to try that method. Bled each wheel 10 more times and headed for the gravel road, only 1/4 mile from home. Got some brake action out of left front wheel. Run to the end of 2nd gear and slam on brakes. Feeling a little pulse now getting front wheel to slide for a second. Two miles of this and getting front left and right rear to lock up for a second. Bled each wheel 10 more times. No air in lines. Repeat gravel road trip. More slammin and slidin. I got brakes!

Thanks jd4242 and Natenkiki2004.

Awesome! !

 

[DontKnowJack]

Thanks jd4242 and Natenkiki2004.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Glad you got it sorted out, and still retained the safety equipment. Win-win.

 

[DontKnowJack]

Glad you got it sorted out, and still retained the safety equipment. Win-win.

Thank yaw'll.