Can I do my own alignment? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Can I do my own alignment?

Tarpman

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City, State
Escalon, CA.
Year, Model & Trim Level
03 Explorer XLT 4.0
I have to replace my upper control arms and inner and outer tie rod ends on my explorer. My question is because of time restraints, I really need to do the work and drive it for a couple of days before I can go and get an alignment done professionally. When I replace inner and outer tie rod ends if I make them the same length as the old is that good enough? Before I put the new control arms on if I measure from the inner edge of the wheels to somewhere on the frame and slide the control arm in or out until I get the measurement close to the same then tighten it down would that be good enough to drive it for a couple of days
 



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you can string the tires, or drive on dirt, etc to see if its tracking correctly.

dont count threads since mfg, date, year, threading, etc will vary,.
 






When I changed my steering rack and measured the number of turns on the threads for the tie rod ends, I thought I had it perfect. It even tracked straight. Long story shortened, my tires were wearing odd and I had to get a professional alignment. For a couple days, if it's tracking straight, you'll probably be alright. Definitely take it for a real alignment, though, even if everything "feels" right.
 






Yep, you will be right for a couple of days without any worries. You will be able to tell by the way it feels to drive if it is to far out of allignment.

That reminds me. I have to do my ball joints soon, especially the lower ones, I just stuck an oil can in there and oiled them up real good for now.
 






I have to replace my upper control arms and inner and outer tie rod ends on my explorer. My question is because of time restraints, I really need to do the work and drive it for a couple of days before I can go and get an alignment done professionally. When I replace inner and outer tie rod ends if I make them the same length as the old is that good enough? Before I put the new control arms on if I measure from the inner edge of the wheels to somewhere on the frame and slide the control arm in or out until I get the measurement close to the same then tighten it down would that be good enough to drive it for a couple of days

On some of my past vehicles where I changed out just the tie rods, I did the "count the turn method" and it worked fine and my tires wore down normally afterwards. I also put a dab of white paint on the first exposed thread as a marker before I started to remove the old tie rod as a backup plan. One thing you need to do for this method to work is make sure you get an exact OE size/length replacement tie rod end. Match the size/length of the new one up to the old one before removing the old one, just to be sure they are the same size and length. I always buy Moog brand suspension parts and they come in OE sizes. On the control arms, I can't help you, never replaced one myself.
BTW, on that automotive TV show out of England called "Wheeler Dealers", I recently saw the mechanic on the show use the exact same method for the tie rods. You may need an alignment afterwards anyhow, but it should buy you some time and be okay to drive for a few days.
 






Place 4 qt paint cans, two at each wheel, and lay (2) 4 ft straight edges (center of straight edge) on each set of cans just high enough to reach around the center of each wheel with wheels straight (above the bulge on bottom of tire). Steering wheel should also be straight. Measure to tip of each straight edge at front and rear. Rear will be under the vehicle. Adjust tie rods accordingly. They should adjust to slightly toe in. Don't recall the spec, but mine were about 3/4 in toe in at front of straight edge.
 






rocco123 said:
Place 4 qt paint cans, two at each wheel, and lay (2) 4 ft straight edges (center of straight edge) on each set of cans just high enough to reach around the center of each wheel with wheels straight (above the bulge on bottom of tire). Steering wheel should also be straight. Measure to tip of each straight edge at front and rear. Rear will be under the vehicle. Adjust tie rods accordingly. They should adjust to slightly toe in. Don't recall the spec, but mine were about 3/4 in toe in at front of straight edge.

Do you mean a can at front and back of tire and ruler running down side of tire front to back?
 






for toe, Which is tie rod adjustment,

get a tape measure and measure the distance from the edge of the left and right tire, in front of the tires, then take the same measurement in the rear of the tires. if you want to get real accurate get 2 pieces of plywood about 2x2 and have somebody hold a peice vertical on each wheel and take measurement from left and right wheels in the front then on rear of tires get the distance the same and you will be good

oh ya dont use the paint method because every manufactory of tie rod ends is different in length so it wont match up.
 






oh ya dont use the paint method because every manufactory of tie rod ends is different in length so it wont match up.

So you are saying that there aren't any "exact OE factory size" tie rod ends out there for any vehicle or just these 3rd gen Explorers? What about Ford replacement ones? I haven't had to replace a tie rod end on my current Explorer yet, so I don't know if what you said is true, but I have replaced them on other vehicles I owned (Olds Cutlass, Jeep Grand Cherokee) and I did pick up "exact" OE size replacements for those vehicles, Moog brand. Same length and everything matching up the factory one that came off the vehicle and the new Moog replacement one.
 






So you are saying that there aren't any "exact OE factory size" tie rod ends out there for any vehicle or just these 3rd gen Explorers? What about Ford replacement ones? I haven't had to replace a tie rod end on my current Explorer yet, so I don't know if what you said is true, but I have replaced them on other vehicles I owned (Olds Cutlass, Jeep Grand Cherokee) and I did pick up "exact" OE size replacements for those vehicles, Moog brand. Same length and everything matching up the factory one that came off the vehicle and the new Moog replacement one.

Even the factory ones arent all exactly the same, if everything was exact, then there would be no need for adjustments.
 






Even the factory ones arent all exactly the same, if everything was exact, then there would be no need for adjustments.

When I said "exact", I am referring to the length of the threaded tie rod end for the purpose of installing the new one back into place after having counted the turns it took to remove the old one. If you lay the new one over the top of the old one and everything matches up, you can use the counted turn method or the paint dot method, the latter which I recommend just for a reference point so as not to screw the new end on too far past the old ones setting. You know, in case one loses track of the count on the turns or some other human error. If the threaded end on the new one has been made shorter than the OE factory one, then you can't use the counted turn or paint method for obvious reasons. That should go without having to say, it's a given. Even with the new one matching up exactly to the old one, you still may need to get a wheel alignment. I already mentioned that previously. You won't know till you drive it afterwards and see how the steering feels or how the tires wear. On the two vehicles of mine where I did the tie rod ends, the Moog replacements were dead on as a match to the factory old ones and I did not need to get a wheel alignment afterward because I had no steering issues or uneven tire wear. No sense in wasting money on a wheel alignment unless there is some tell-tale sign demanding you get one done. I can only give comment on my experiences with my vehicles.
 






I appreciate all the advice. I'm going to do this tonight after work. Upper control arms, and inner and outer tie rod ends. I have an appointment tomorrow to get alignment. My problem was getting it done tonight and being at shop by nine. This is the only shop I'll take it to for the alignment. I think I can get it done tonight. Just miss work tomorrow, need a day to myself anyway. Lol

Brian
 






Yes, cans on outside forward and aft ends of each wheel. Same thing as Viper said, just more accurate as the arm is longer front and back which should be more accurate.
 






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