Hmm what should I do to my Explorer?

[Roadblock1945]

I have a 2002 V6 4.0 Explorer XLT. Knock on wood, I've NEVER had any major problems with it and it's sitting at 247,000+ miles.

The only thing I might consider above a normal wear issue was I started to get this hard bucking in the transmission but you guys helped me diagnose that as a solenoid pack. I bought a factory Ford one off ebay for $200.00 dollars and picked up a new drain plug, trans filter and fluid from my dealer and did it myself in the driveway. That was about 80,000 miles ago.

I replaced both rear wheel bearings last year. I had done the front ones a few years ago and they seem to still he holding up.

I just replaced both upper and lower ball joints on the front end about two weeks ago. I also did a full set of Monroe Quick Struts all the way around while I was in there. Actually that was kinda funny. I had put new rears on about 5 years ago because the back end bounced a lot but I was still on the OEM fronts at 247,000+ miles. I pulled the old 5 year old ones off because they started to squeak and took them back to Advance Auto, they warrantied them and gave me a new set for free. They had like 100,000+ miles on them! I also picked up a new set of fronts off Amazon hence the doing them all the way around.

OH did full pads and rotors while I was doing struts just a couple weeks ago!

I have some play in both inner tie rods. I have new ones sitting here. Thinking I may just do my outer tie rods too even though they don't have play, they are the factory originals. $22.00 dollars each on Amazon for MOOG's.

Both front sway bar link pins are snapped, found that when I did the ball joints so I have a new set of MOOG's here. $11.00 dollars each. Also bought MOOG sway bar bushings for $12.50. Going to do those tomorrow.

A/C is NICE cold, just refilled that.

Ummm yeah I mean it runs and I put about 500 miles a week on it. Just got new Firestone Destination A/T tires.

I do have a NASTY rattle in the engine bay. Sounds like it's coming from a timing chain? I hear it really bad around 2,500~3,500 RPM. It's been doing that since 117,000 miles though. I pretty much decided fixing those parts was out of my ability and I know you gotta pull the engine to do it so I figured drive it til it drops. Here I am at almost a quarter of a million miles!

I've never changed my factory hoses.
I've never changed my factory plug wires.
I've never done my fuel filter.
I've never changed my factory serpentine belt.

I did not flush my radiator until like 230,000 miles when the heat stopped working. I just never thought to do it. Oddly enough the inside of the hoses are coated with a rust like debris but but it doesn't seem to be affecting anything. Car doesn't over heat or anything. I think I probably NEED to get some type of coolant system cleaner and add it to the radiator and run it for 2 or 3 days, flush it and replace every hose that carries water but I'm almost worried that might do more harm that good. Thoughts?

Frankly I'm SHOCKED this SUV has held up as well as it has. I'm VERY impressed. When it goes, I'm planning to buy another Ford Explorer.

I'm really just wondering what you guys would do that this point? The stuff I just did wasn't that expensive. Two of those struts were free, the other two were $110 each. The ball joints were all between 22~28 dollars each. The tie rods were 21 each, sway bar pins, 11 each. I mean I got a couple hundred into it not counting normal stuff like tires.

At this mileage I don't want to drop hundreds into it but it lasted another 50k reliably and then I could just make it a weekend toy and boat hauler, I would retire it from normal driving. I'd like to get a new SUV within the next year or so.

It's late. I'm tired and rambling. Just looking for advice I guess!

Thanks!

 

[TechGuru]

I don't think a rattling timing chain would have lasted over 100K, the noise is probably a rattling heat shield somewhere or hydraulic lifters that have somehow gone bad.

I would not consider the latest generation Explorer, Ford has totally ruined it with a transverse engine front wheel drive setup. It's not the same Explorer at all. Don't think it is even classified as a truck anymore (DMV considers my 2003 a truck). Uni-body low towing capacity crap.

If you are wanting brand new I would look at the Dodge Durango with a 5.7L HEMI or if you must stick with Ford then the Expedition. Toyota 4Runner is another great alternative if willing to go foreign.

Here is a list of the only decent vehicles still made, lol http://www.rearwheeldrive.org/rwd/rwdlist.html

Curious, what oil have you been using?

 

[Roadblock1945]

It's definitely not a heat shield. The noise is not external but it could be a lifters I suppose.

I exclusively run Mobile 1 Synthetic 10 30 in everything, new and old. I've used it for years in my track cars and we absolutely boost the hell out of those things, run them up to 10,000 RPM's on the regular and anytime anything has to come apart, everything always looks new inside so I just run it in everything. Good oil.

I run Mobile 1 lube for my front and rear on this too but the factory Motorcraft stuff for the trans and transfer case.

Speaking of which, probably time to drain and fill the trans and transfer case again. Should I swap out the trans filter too? Don't know the life cycle on those.

 

[TechGuru]

10W30? When you're supposed to be using 5W30? I suppose that might be ok in the south but if you're in the north with harsh winters that don't sound too good unless maybe you have a engine block heater...

I'm running Castrol GTX 5W30. Change it ever 3,000 miles. Previous owner ran Pennzoil Synthetic.

 

[Roadblock1945]

Meh I mean if we were talking conventional oils, I'd be more concerned. Synthetic already flows better and is more stable.

I started out with 5w30 but a bunch of times both of my Wal-Marts were out of the 5w30 and only had 10w30 Mobile 1.

For the most part I've pretty much always gotten 10w30 because of the above and I've never noticed any slow pumping effects (rattling in the motor til the oils flowing) in the winter. The 10w30 M1 is always in-stock at my local Wal-Mart, 5w30 isn't always so I just always grab the 10w30 out of convenience.

Sure I could go to Advance Auto or something but it's almost 10 dollars more per gallon than Wal-Mart.

I normally buy the 15,000 mile M1 stuff and change it out at about 5,000 miles. Normally it's just lightly brown at that point.

Alway use the factory Motorcraft filters, never had any issues with them so I've never seen a need to get K&N or Mobile 1.

Side note I think my belt tensioner is going bad. It appears to "bounce" when it's spinning. Going to pull the belt tonight and give it a spin, I think the bearing might be one of my sources of noise too. It's never been replaced so at 240k+, might be time! I'm shocked at how good the belt looks too. I'm shocked in general at how well these factory parts are holding up. I've never had a car or truck that had all the hoses, belts, pulleys etc last to a quarter of a million miles. That is kind of impressive.

Amazon has factory MC belt tensioners for $35 shipped with Prime, might as well.

 

[TechGuru]

I had to replace the belt tensioner pulley and the idler pulley the week I bought my Explorer, they were making a loud "hiss" noise. Also replaced the belt as it was cracked everywhere.



Here are the pulleys I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2SGT8/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2WIB0/

and the belt: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1332875



A note about belts, some brands won't crack not matter how old they get, but that does NOT mean that they are still good. It's best to use a belt tester to check it.

Belts manufactured before the year 2000 show obvious failure signs such as cracks. Today's serpentine belts wear out gradually, much like a tire, and don't always show signs of visual wear. A serpentine belt can appear to be in good condition when it's actually near failure. The New Gates Belt Wear Gauge provides a simple and reliable way to determine if a serpentine belt has lost enough material to negatively affect performance and warrant replacement.

Order a free tester here: http://www.gates.com/products/autom...t-wear-diagnosis/belt-wear-gauge/request-form