Can you adjust the idle on a 93 X?

[nitro71]

I'd like to bump my idle up some on my Explorer. I get some hesitation when coming off a dead start. Manual tranny, 3.73 gears, 31 tires. I just want to bump it up a couple hundred RPM. Is this possible?

 

[jd4242]

there is a screw on the throttle body that you can adjust,its right where the cables are.

 

[jd4242]

pic circled in green

 

[nitro71]

Thanks man! That is one clean looking engine you got!

 

[Willard]

That's not there to adjust the idle. That is only the stop screw for the butterfly. The IAC is what controls the idle. So yes, technically that will bump the idle, but that's not what it's there for.

Either way I don't see how this would affect anything on a manual transmission anyways. It's not like you let the clutch out when it's at idle and then punch the gas. You always rev the motor a little and then start letting the clutch out. Perhaps you need to do some tune-up items to try and fix the hesitation problem, rather than trying to band aid it.

 

[nitro71]

I've done all the tune up things I can think of right now. The IAC looks fine. Cleaned the MAF. New Plugs. Wires are newer. Air cleaner is new. I'm just suspecting that with the larger than stock tires it's protesting some. Any ideas on what else I should check to increase at idle power?

 

[JMan689]

Just a thought to fix your problem, new clutch maybe?

 

[jd4242]

That's not there to adjust the idle. That is only the stop screw for the butterfly. The IAC is what controls the idle. So yes, technically that will bump the idle, but that's not what it's there for.

Either way I don't see how this would affect anything on a manual transmission anyways. It's not like you let the clutch out when it's at idle and then punch the gas. You always rev the motor a little and then start letting the clutch out. Perhaps you need to do some tune-up items to try and fix the hesitation problem, rather than trying to band aid it.

I would think the iac just sensors where the butterfly is at,adjusting that screw whould just be like pressing down on the gas witch would increase the rpms everything else would adjust where the butterfly is at
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[jd4242]

Thanks man! That is one clean looking engine you got!

thanks but im having some weird ass problems right now,runs super strong but having problems with it so to me it worthless!I've been building motors since I was 8 racing minibikes and dirt tracks after that but this thing got me stumped,but I agree get that clutch fixed first
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[nitro71]

I'm just not sure it's the clutch on this. No clutch slippage. Occasional difficulty going into gear. But like my own advice I give fix what's wrong first! What should idle be at when the engine is hot? What's up with you're explorer JD?

 

[jd4242]

I'm just not sure it's the clutch on this. No clutch slippage. Occasional difficulty going into gear. But like my own advice I give fix what's wrong first! What should idle be at when the engine is hot? What's up with you're explorer JD?

dang sounds like u got the x bug too haha,I was getting water in my oil but the lower intake was coming lose for some reason it kept setting down.I would locktight them and when u broke them lose you could turn them,I finally got everything to stay a spec but now im getting oild in my radiator,I think it might be my tranny leaking oil through the cooler but I don't know really,I've torn it down 3 times and replaced the heads.I can't figgure it out for the life of me,ine ran (around) 800rpms before the rebuild
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[Anime]

I agree with not using the throttle cable adjuster screw to bump up the idle, all that's going to do is waste gas by making it idle higher the same as if you held your foot on the pedal to keep the RPM's up.

If you're sometimes having trouble getting into gear, the clutch slave cylinder is probably going. Good time to check the master cylinder and clutch/flywheel as well.

3.73's with the 5 speed should have plenty of low end torque, even with the 31's. If all the engine parts are in good shape and you're not using some gimmicky part somewhere that's causing some other issue, it might just be the tranny holding back the engine.

 

[nitro71]

Engine has great mid and upper power. It's just starting off idle that it doesn't like so much when in gear. I wonder what else I could check for? I'll look into doing the slave and inspecting the clutch next week I think. Got a fishing trip planned for sat. To late in the week for me to risk it.

 

[dansnyder22]

I've done all the tune up things I can think of right now. The IAC looks fine. Cleaned the MAF. New Plugs. Wires are newer. Air cleaner is new. I'm just suspecting that with the larger than stock tires it's protesting some. Any ideas on what else I should check to increase at idle power?

I drive a 91 X with 34"tires on it with a manual trans, stock rear end and it has no hesitation, the bigger tires are not your problem

 

[nitro71]

Just so I'm sure, is there anything else I should check engine wise? I looked at the IAC, moves smoothly, cleaned the MAF, I believe the IAT sensor is in with the MAF?, air filter, plugs, wires are good. What else can I check as far as engine goes? No codes.

 

[jd4242]

maybe fuel filter

 

[Anime]

The only time I had hesitation starting from first gear was with high mileage on the stock wires..it just sort of started out of nowhere, I noticed it when there was one stoplight going to an interstate onramp I took pretty often and it would always hesitate.
Replaced the wires with nice new Magnecors and it's never hesitated since.

Biggest factor might be your driving style. You want an idle of about 600 RPM, so if you're dropping the clutch and letting the idle below that when starting out in first gear, it's going to stumble. Giving just enough gas by feathering the pedal when letting out the clutch so it only goes up from the 500-600 mark on the tach all the way to the shift point for second. Engine speed usually doesn't go much below 1400-1500 RPM between shifts after that unless something else is wrong.

The IAC moving smoothly is only part of it working. The seals and other stuff inside it can still cause funky operation, usually it will show up in the form of high idle, doing cold idle speeds of 900-1400 RPM even when warm. The higher idle actually helps the shifting out of first gear, though...sort of. Wastes gas like crazy, though.

What plugs/wires? Sometimes using other plugs besides the Motorcraft replacements can cause issues, but again, usually it's an idle thing that shows up when sitting still. Also as mentioned, wires can affect things. Being new means nothing, you can get a bad wire or a set that's just not doing what it should.

My guess would be it's either just how you're driving or perhaps the clutch is going too, giving you a hard time along with the slave cylinder. The whole hydraulic clutch system can be a PITA if any part of it isn't working. Air in the master/slave can throw it off, a tough to push master cyl can make it tricky to let off the clutch smoothly, and a slave that's going makes shifting iffy and downshifting downright fustrating. Add in a worn or slipping clutch with any of those and you've got an adventure.

Beats dealing with the A4LD auto though...or so I hear.


If you're dropping the tranny, it's worth putting in a new fuel filter while you've got all the room you need.

 

[nitro71]

My idle actually sits around 800 or so. No worries there. I'm a really good manual driver. When I was in high school thats what we had. Put 70K on a manual ranger later in life. Put 7K on my manual Tacoma that I sold. Drove 18 wheeler for a year. I'm pretty good with a stick : )

I put in autolite double platinum plugs. Hope they work well.

I just decided to replace the plug wires. They look good but they have the orange boots. Well I saw a set just like it on another X at pull n save and am thinking they are original.

I just can't see the clutch causing it to bog and shudder a little. If anything you'd think it would cause slippage and increased RPM's.

No high idle. Still could be a IAC I suppose but I'm not hot to replace a 100 dollar item that isn't giving me any signs.

I'm thinking 02 sensors are probably called for pretty soon. They are 100K replacement items on most cars and really effect how it runs. Usually you get CEL codes though if you have bad ones.

Will do the fuel filter tommorow!

 

[Anime]

800 sounds a little high, usually idle is right above the 500 RPM mark.

Autolite plugs might be the problem. Some 4.0 OHVs seem ok with other plugs based on reports, but others have had idle and running issues with Autolite or Bosch plugs and switching to the OE Motorcraft plugs solved everything.

Stock plug wires are either all grey or sometimes grey with orange/brown boots. There are aftermarket wires with the same colors, though so just going by appearance doesn't mean they are stock. I highly suggest the Magnecor wires, they're only a bit more than what you'd pay for stock replacements and much, much better quality.

If the engine only bogs and shudders in gear when moving, and not when just revving in neutral, it's the clutch causing something.

You can get off-brand IAC's at some parts stores, or yank one off a 4.0 OHV at a salvage yard and use it as a check for if the idle changes.

O2 sensors aren't bad until they're faulty, and then you'll get a check engine light.

 

[Four0Sport]

I've always ran Autolite Single Platinum plugs with no problems. The Intake Air Temp sensor is screwed into the side of the upper intake between the IAC and the vacuum tree.

So youve cleaned the IAT and the MAF, plugs are good, how are the wires? Inspect your coil pack also. I had a crack down the side of one of the packs in my 97 that allowed some moisture in, gave the truck a miss and low idle. Just some ideas.