CD Changer Install - Wiring Problems | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

CD Changer Install - Wiring Problems

Joined
April 13, 2003
Messages
666
Reaction score
0
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer here, searching hasn't quite matched what I'm looking for this time. I have some electrical experince, but I am new to automotve systems.

I'm installing a Pioneer 6-disc modulated (yeah, I know) cd changer, into my '98 xlt, and have gotten stuck this time. Here are the issues:

1) Power. I have studied the wiring diagram for the truck, and it looked to me like I could tap the radio power feed (yel/blk) for switched power, then tap the power socket feed in the console for constant 12V. Is this a good idea, or are there better sources?

2) Cable Length. The instructions advise against shortening the power cable (it's 18' right now, about 18 ga. or smaller) because this may prevent the fuses, etc. from protecting the circuit. Will the cable length cause problems, or is this normal?

3) Oddball rig? My truck seems to have premium sound connectors (1 gray. / 1 blk.), but no CD harness in the console. It does however, have what looks like a factory amp behind the passenger side wall. I read that the amps were part of the head unit beginning in 1998, so did I get 1997 wiring? This is an early build '98, delivered in late '97.

Thanks again

- Kevin
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Let me see what I can answer here. Oh and, welcome to the site. :)

#1 - When you speak of power feed for switched power, are you talking about the remote wire? If so, you can simply splice into the blue/white wiring going into the harness to the HU. As far as power goes, I'm more of a guy who likes to run fresh wires around the truck for true, absolute power. You could either run a straight 10/12ga wire from your battery with an inline fuse 18in from the batt (30/40A) and run it through your console or to the back of your truck, wherever you're putting this. If you want to tap into a wire, you could very well just use the power from the radio, or I'd even suggest just pulling it from the cig lighting in the lower right portion of the console on the passanger side. Again, I'd run new wires, especially if you plan to start adding more electronics to your truck. Some others may have advice as to where to splice it in other places.

#2 - This is really only in affect when talking about wiring a brand new line from your batt (which like I said, the fuse *does* need to be within 18in of the terminal). Unless the power to this is fused once again in the power cables, you can't lengthen it between that inline fuse and the connector, but after that fuse, you're free to add as much as you need.

#3 - Those are premium sound connectors alright. I have a 98 sport, no amp in the rear quarter panel/side wall. Got a picture of that? Premium has always been just the speakers and HU, JBL has the sub with the amp, Mach has the amp powering the speakers (correct me if I'm wrong). When I replaced my headunit, there was no amp wire feeding to it or anything, so I'm really unsure of your case. Take a picture or two. ;)

Hope I answered everything, like I said, others may have more advice for you. Take it easy. :)
 






As far as Number 2 is concerned, if I read it correctly(sorry draft, I think you misread the question) you mean the power cable to the changer is 18 feet long, long enough to run all the way to the back of the car? I currently have a changer with an 18 foot cable not more than 3 feet from my deck, and I have had no problems. As long as you have the room for the extra cable, I would just leave it. If it's as small as you say it is, 18ga, that shouldn't be a problem.
 






what draft was saying i think is on the power wire u can do whatever u want AFTER the fuse..the fuse has to remain where it is in relation to the battery..but u can shortin the wire after the fuse that makes no difference at all

the reason being to shortin is so u dont have a coil of power wire tied up somewere because that can sometimes cause road noise or interfearance
 






Ok, so the power cable can be left alone.. sounds good. It will be run to the rear cargo area, as my console is already housing vhf equipment. (that only took 2 leads straight to the battery)
I think I have the power about figured out, thanks again.

Here is a pic of the amp?? I am still puzzled as to what it's doing there:

amp.JPG
 






Found an answer!! :D

From http://oem-auto-accessory.com/factory_ford_radio_identifcation.html

They have a decent ID guide for ford radios, with connector photos.
"Used on Some Ford Vehicles, 1995-1999, A P100 system has a Amp in the vehicle, There is no internal amp in the radio, P100 radio hook up are Similar to a Lux radio, A P100 radio will have a antenna plug on the back of the radio, a Lux radio has no antenna plug on the radio."
 






Featured Content

Back
Top