"Check Charging System"

[jaydez]

The day before my wedding (Oct 13) my truck started to give me an error message on the Message Center. If I floor it ot accellerate into traffic or onto a highway with a short ramp, once the RPMS reach 5,000 The battery light will come on and the message center will flash "check charging system". I had the alternator tested at Autozone and they told me that the alternator failed the load test.

I have been keeping an eye on the voltage gauge since this started to happen and havent noticed it moving at all. Is this gauge a live read-out or is it a dummy gauge like the oil pressure? It does not move at all, even when I get the warning.

If it only happens over 5,000 RPM will I be ok for a while? Or should I replace the alternator ASAP? Why are there 2 kinds of alternators that appear in every search for my truck? One has a rear post + terminal, the other is a side post. I'm pretty sure I need the side post based on how mine looks and the fact that there is only a 1/4 inch of clearance between where the rear terminal would be and the valve cover.

Has anyone ever used BOSCH replacement alternators? They are the only one I can find that had a decent new price. I dont want this to turn into my only t-bird where I had to replace a refurbished aternator every year or 10,000 miles. That got old after the 4th one I had to do in a parking lot in the snow... Though I got it down to remove and install the new one in under 10 minutes.

 

[Exproblems]

I had the alternator tested at Autozone and they told me that the alternator failed the load test.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

If your alternator failed the load test, replace it, it's bad. Don't exactly know why 2 types of alternators show up in parts stores for your exact vehicle, but it could have something to do the amount of "Amps" each one puts out. Different vehicle models may have more electronics in them and therefore need a bigger amperage alternator to run everything. Parts store clerk should be able to look it up for you. Get the alternator that matches your OE exact fit/ hookups and amperage rating.

 

[jrford]

I first tried a reman Bosch it just failed outright 4months later, took it back (it passed the bench test go figure) so i exchanged it for a new one, i Bosch too, does the same thing over 5k. . .this was over a 1 year ago. If i back the rpm's off under 5k its fine. With 95k on the engine i don't like running redline unless its really really necessary (getting old i guess). Its not worth the hassle i figure, might wind up with the same problem in the end, then what? If i had to do it again, i'd be tempted to go with a Motorcraft replacement.

On a side note my first reaction was that the belt was slipping or the tensor was wearing out, being at 5k?

 

[fifthranger]

Don't exactly know why 2 types of alternators show up in parts stores for your exact vehicle

You correctly alluded to the amp. difference. My 04' Ranger 4 * 4 must have been a mid-model build because when I needed a new alternator, two showed in stock at Autozone -- one with about 120 amps and the other 140. It went by V.I.N., and of course, mine was the more expensive one. I'm guessing that the lighter amp. one wasn't enough voltage, so it was replaced by the more amp. one. Hope this helps.

 

[jaydez]

Both alternators are 130 amp. The only differnece I can see between them is the location of the + terminal.