Check Engine Code 214

[Indispensable Explorer]

About a year ago the check engine light illuminated showing the code (among others) 214. The light eventually went off until it came back on about 6 weeks ago and it has not stopped since. To my understanding it is the Camshaft Position Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor, but how can I be sure which one it is without tearing down the intake? If it is the Camshaft sensor is there any way to not disassemble the intake manifold but still replace it?

Issues:

Loss of power at WOT,
Almost stalling while coming to a stop (but only in the city, this does not happen on an exit ramp stop light), Audible vibration in the engine at highway speeds,
Occasional stutter while applying throttle,

1995 Explorer 4x4, 4.0 OHV V6 with 313,800 miles.
Thanks

 

[koda2000]

Not a '95 guy, but the crankshaft position sensor is used for spark, nothing else. It either works or it doesn't. No spark, no go. So that would leave the cam shaft position sensor, which is responsible for fuel injector timing. Your engine will run (although poorly). It might be the cam sensor or its wiring. If I had to go through the trouble/effort to change the cam sensor on a V6 OHV I think I'd also replace the cam synchronizer.

From what little info I got from the internet on '95 Ford 4.0L ODB I code 214 it indicates a "circuit malfunction" which could be a wiring issue. On a 24 year old vehicle anything is possible.

Good luck.

 

[Indispensable Explorer]

Thanks for your input, Friday afternoon the check engine light went off for the first time in weeks, so I decided to go ahead and have her tested for emissions so I can renew registration. Unfortunately the test was failed due to Hydrocarbons (which I'm told is un-burned fuel), so I changed out the air filter (which needed changing anyway) and PCV (which the Advance Auto guy recommended to me) to see if the it was the issue. Failed again. Figured it might be the catalytic converter but the one I got did not fit like the OEM (could not even install it) so now I'm second guessing myself and returning it. What lead me to believe that it was the catalytic converter that was bad is that the exhaust gas was 200 degrees warmer before the cat than it was after, is that normal for an original catalytic converter?

What should my next step be with the check engine light now off and no codes displayed?
I considered replacing the Camshaft sensor, but I don't want to tear apart the intake and the top of the engine with the fragile 24 year old wires if I don't have to.

Thanks again.

 

[lobo411]

Check for a vacuum leak. Mine had high HC (literally 1 ppm from fail) but then I got in the habit of re-torquing the lower intake manifold gasket bolts before a smog check. They loosen by themselves over time, and there are always a few that need a 1/2 or full turn to get back to torque. Haven't had a HC problem since...in fact, last time the tech told me to take care of my 96 because it was clean as a whistle.

What Causes High Hydrocarbon (HC)? | SmogTips.com

 

[koda2000]

Are you still running your original 1995 O2 sensor(s)? How many miles on your engine? Had you changed your oil just before the emissions test.

 

[Indispensable Explorer]

Check for a vacuum leak. Mine had high HC (literally 1 ppm from fail) but then I got in the habit of re-torquing the lower intake manifold gasket bolts before a smog check. They loosen by themselves over time, and there are always a few that need a 1/2 or full turn to get back to torque. Haven't had a HC problem since...in fact, last time the tech told me to take care of my 96 because it was clean as a whistle.

What Causes High Hydrocarbon (HC)? | SmogTips.com

I'll check them out, thanks!

Are you still running your original 1995 O2 sensor(s)? How many miles on your engine? Had you changed your oil just before the emissions test.

One or two of them are new, rest are the original. An estimated 313,000. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it. I'll check these things out, thanks.

 

[koda2000]

O2 sensors effect fuel trims and (in my experience) don't always set the CEL. The 4-wire, heated ones are good for around 100-120k, the older 2-wire variety only around 60k. Not sure if a '95 had a sensor(s) after the catalytic converter, but those have nothing to to with the fuel trims, they're only there to monitor cat efficiency.

At 313k you're probably also burning some oil, which I assume would also adversely effect HC's. Without being able to retrieve codes it's really a guessing game. I would think vacuum leaks would reduce HC readings, because they make the engine run lean, but I could be wrong about that.

 

[EB4X]

I'll check them out, thanks!.

Hey 'Indispensable' ... did your issue turn out to be the CAM (back of engine) or CRANK sensor ?(front of engine) ....guessing cam..

 

[Indispensable Explorer]

Hey 'Indispensable' ... did your issue turn out to be the CAM (back of engine) or CRANK sensor ?(front of engine) ....guessing cam..

Whoops, forgot to update this thread.
It turned out to be the Camshaft Position Sensor.