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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
The only problem with that test is your coolant should never get that hot to where it boils...So if its a 195 thermostat it still may not open at 195 degrees...
Besides the possibly damaging the t-stat if the water is too hot, I'd never go through the trouble of removing a t-stat w/out replacing it. Especially if I suspected it of malfunctioning.
Besides the possibly damaging the t-stat if the water is too hot, I'd never go through the trouble of removing a t-stat w/out replacing it. Especially if I suspected it of malfunctioning.
Every time I replace a thermostat, I test the new one in water on the stove. I use the wifey's candy thermometer and bring the water up to around 195 degrees or so until I see it opening up to verify it's operable. Too many stories of new thermostats being defective out of the box.
I guess I'm too trusting, when I buy a new one I just assume it's going to work. I have thrown an old one in a pot to see and confirm that it did work, then put a new one in anyway.
I am doubtful that (non-pressurized so a max temp of about) 212F boiling water would damage a t-stat. That's less than 20F difference while the wax in the slug should have a boiling point hundreds of degrees higher. Plus, it seems an acceptable range in that manufacturers like Stant claim
The thermostat fully open about 15-20 degrees above its rated temperature
I personally have encountered exactly one defective new t-stat in my many years of wrenching, but I know you can run into a bad one right out of the box. I don't bother testing them. They typically don't fail immediately, so running a hot water test on a new one isn't going to tell you much. They can still stick on you a week later.
Stant Superstat fixed all the issues with this engine. The German one from Motorcraft will always run a bit cold. There are some TSBs about fluctuations and bypass hoses for the OHV, but they aren't made anymore.
I had 3 motorcraft stats and they always ran in the 1/4 range between 175-186 verified with a scan tool. Lowest it drops to now is 190. I don't think it will harm the engine but I don't like running cold, and my gas mileage went up, I take some very repeatable trips. If I run AC it runs at a steady 195. When A/C is on the heater core is bypassed, could have something to do with that.