Chrome cover panel on lower rear quarter.

[Boomer88]

Has anybody removed the chrome covers behind the rear wheels of a 1994 Explorer xlt and have pictures of the inside of them where the fasteners are. I want to take mine off but the nuts are seized on and I don't know how they are secured to the panel. If I put the heat to them it could melt the plastic trim molding. The truck is going for a paint job in a couple months and I really want to see if there is rust back there so it can be taken care of. Thanks for any help.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

been curious about that since 2004.

The washer in fingers is plastic retainer for the bolt.
There are 2 bolts.
The bolt can be slid out when the plastic trim is removed from the chrome panel.
So yeah, don't heat. If you don't have access to junkyard, cutoff wheel to the nuts.

 

[J_C]

I don't know but wonder what you can see behind it with a strong flashlight?

I agree you shouldn't use a heat gun, especially on chromed plastic. Have you tried putting penetrant on and letting it sit? When you try to remove the fasteners, does it seem like you're going to shear them off (then just need new ones) or round the heads, or twist/distort the plastic?

I rarely find uses for my dremel tool, but wonder if this might be a case where one could be used in a limited clearance area to cut or grind the heads off the fasteners.

If you are certain you wouldn't get any on the chromed side (might blemish it black), a little acid to eat through the rust might be another option, but if you're upside down and it's potentially dripping on you, I'd wear goggles and use a mild one like vinegar then it may take repeated applications, or something thicker like naval jelly is less prone to drip, can be brushed on with a paintbrush.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

especially on chromed plastic.

Not chromed platic. Chromed metal plate with plastic molding strip.

 

[J_C]

Oops, my '98 is chromed plastic. Various sources claim you can still use a mild acid on/around real chromed metal such as vinegar, lemon juice, cola, but these are all thin and more difficult to get to stay on the fastener to eat the rust away. There are various thickeners like xanthan gum but now we're getting away from automotive and into chemistry, and that's not something most people have sitting around.

 

[Kesp4.0]

The fasteners are usually hard to see/remove because of the dirt or coating all over that area. Its just a couple of thread cutting nuts (I think) holding the plastic trim on at the top (also holding the chrome trim on as well) and then a couple of plastic trim clips keeping the bottom of the chrome trim onto the rear quarter body panel

 

[Boomer88]

been curious about that since 2004.

View attachment 341461

View attachment 341462

The washer in fingers is plastic retainer for the bolt.
There are 2 bolts.
The bolt can be slid out when the plastic trim is removed from the chrome panel.
So yeah, don't heat. If you don't have access to junkyard, cutoff wheel to the nuts.

Excellent, thank you. Now I have a better idea of how to go at it.

 

[Boomer88]

Ok, so using the information that Childldenticant posted I took my time (2 hours for 2 nuts) and got the chrome and plastic trim off the rear quarter. Firstly, the nut and bolt are m6x1 thread if that helps anyone. I oiled and cleaned the threads several times and used a spare nut to run on and off the end of the bolt. Then I took a pair of Vise grips and locked them on the tip of the bolt and started working the nut. Move the nut off as far as it would go easily then retighten. Pull off plyers and wire brush the threads and check with spare nut. More oil, plyers and go as far as it will and retighten. Continue until it comes off all the way. As I said originally, I'm doing this because the truck will be going for a full paint job and want to see if there is rust back there. As it turns out for it's age it is in nice shape. It is just starting around the bolt hole closest to the wheel. It will be an easy fix now. As for the passenger side trim, that will wait for a cooler day as that one will be a bit longer as the tail pipe is there. Again thanks for the help.

 

[Boomer88]

been curious about that since 2004.

View attachment 341461

View attachment 341462

The washer in fingers is plastic retainer for the bolt.
There are 2 bolts.
The bolt can be slid out when the plastic trim is removed from the chrome panel.
So yeah, don't heat. If you don't have access to junkyard, cutoff wheel to the nuts.

Again thanks for the pics, they helped so much. Looking at your location I understand why the fastener is in such great shape. I ended up locking vise grips on the end of the bolt and forcing 2 off. The other 2 I used a small cut off wheel. I live in the salt belt in Canada. This could have all been avoided had Ford used SS nuts and bolts here. If you look at the square retaining head it is really thin. It is like a knife waiting to spin through that plastic. I built my own retainers out of SS. I found a kit of m10 square SS nuts that were the perfect thickness and width to fit the reciever in the plastic moulding. I then took some m6 by 1 inch SS bolts and beveled the head down to a shape that fit them flush in the square nut and had a shop weld them together with SS wire. A little final buffing and they slide right in. Re-assemble, snug to taste and double nut for good measure. Now I can take them off with two wrenches with my eyes closed. Sorry I didn't take any pics.