Clunk in front axle?? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Clunk in front axle??

joeglock40

Member
Joined
December 14, 2012
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City, State
SW AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Ford X, 2012chevyZ71
Hi, im new here but gota probelm. I went wheeling yesterday and dscovered that when im in 4wd, I have a random clunk in my front axle. If I put it in 2wd it goes away. If im going dwnhill in 4wd and i ride the brakes, th clunk sounds like its clunking each time the wheel completes a revolution. I checed my joints and they seem alright. my hubs are locking fine. so im kinda stumpd. It wont clunk if im on level ground in 4wd or evem if i jerk te wheel side to side in 4wheel on level ground. its only on uneven rough ground itll clunk but itll also clunk repeatedly when going downhill in 4wd. any help would be apreciated
:us:
 



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Might be because you've grenaded your 4x4 by using it on level ground, especially turning. Not a lot of info to go on but I'm sure some of the more seasoned 4x4 wrenchers can give you the most likely places to start checking. For future reference, checking the 4x4 on level pavement works in the opposite direction of your goal.
 






Level ground as in dirt, im smarter than to drive around in 4x4 on asphalt. Its a 92 and the only mods are mud tires and rear shackles.
 






My 4x4 doesn't know the difference between dirt and asphalt if it's not slipping. Sorry. Good luck.
 






Don't know if it helps but my alignment is also way off, the toe is out very noticeably and the camber is off as well the camber looks like / \ from the front
 






Well from searching around online, its seems to be either the automatic hubs popping when they get load or front axle u joints. Anyone know how hard it is to change front axle u joints ? It's got200k miles on her so im sure all the above could go for new parts
 






Not terribly tough, depending on corrosion and the depth of your toolbox. There are great threads on this, but here is a quick summary:

1. Front wheels off.
2. Brake calipers and disks off. You will need a special wrench for the hub nuts, and the autohubs have special procedures, see other threads.
3. Remove ABS sensor, 12pt 6mm socket is a must. Seriously, 1/4 drive socket. It will be hard to find... you cannot do this job without one.
3a. Remove c clip and star washer from the exposed axle stub. BTW, when I got here, my c clips and washers were missing. You might want to look around for some in advance... hard to find.
4. Remove spindle. You may need some heat and ingenuity to get them off.
5. Driver side axle comes out.
6. Locate spline joint on passenger side axle, disconnect, but leave witness marks... it has to go back on the same splines or you will get vibrations.
7. Passenger side comes out, the outer axle, that is.
8. IMHO, take the axles to a shop and let them fight the new joints, particularly if corrosion is bad.
8a. You are leaving the inner passenger u-joint in the car. To get the inner axle out, you need to open up the front diff. God Help You.
9. Buy new spindle bearings, seals, so on. You need to get Timken parts. If you go cheaper, you will have to do this again sooner than you want.
10. Reassemble, install new wheel bearings... Timken again, please.

What else? Quality grease, clean parts well. I wire-wheeled everything clean and painted them, but that's just me. If I spend that much time on something, I make it look good as well as work well. Get a can of penetrating fluid and take your time. This is also a good time for a brake job.

You will have to decide on permanent versus re-greaseable u-joints. I went regreaseable but... there is fair argument that the grease passages in re-greasable ones weaken the structure. And the permanent ones seal better. When I do this again, I will get the best quality permanent ones I can find. Just me.

There are great threads with lots of pictures. Study and buy the right tools and parts before you dive in. If you do this right, you should not have open the spindles for a good long time.

Good Luck!

BTW, rockauto.com has everything you need and if you look around the forum, you will find discount codes.
 






Ditch the auto hubs and get manual. I vaguely remember my auto hubs popping when offroad.
 






Im gona check it out real good Wednesday, hopefully it's my hubs. I really ain't itching to do joints
 






Update... got a alignment and they said I need a new pass outer tie rod and my driver wheel bearing was loose. So im gonna go ahead n change over to warn manual hubs since im gonna check the wheel bearings since half the work will be done to just check the bearings, and then next weekend put new tie rod ends on it. Idk if somehow the toe and camber being way out with a bad tie rod could make the clunker sound but Iguess I'll find out, doing the hubs and checking bearings Tuesday. I'll update after test drive off road Saturday before doing rod ends
 






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