Clutch Issues

[ClutchKick]

HEllo all this is my frist thread/post however i have been finding many usefull things on this site and love it!

Now onto my current headache. i have searched and cant find any info on it. today when i was backing out of a buddys driveway my clutch acted up the release point was almost the floor and i stalle dout the truck. odd i thought, when i tried to start again(without pumping the clutch i jsut kept it to the floor where my foot ahd naturally taken it) the truck started poping back as if the clutch were stuck engaged. I turned off the trck went into neutral and pumped the clutch a few times that fixed it i backed up and left. then on the way home i noticed i had a wandering release point. mostly when down shiftting the release point was again near the floor. and when it did that if i didnt let the clutch all the way up I can acctually feel the 2 or so inches of play. but if i let the pedal all the way back up it goes away. this is very odd to me. the truck only has 94,000miles on it and is a 94 sport 2wd. any ideas Please help me i need to be able to get back and forth to work.

Also my cruise doesnt work all fuses vacume lines are good switches are good not as big of a problem but any thought on that would be nice too.

Thanks All
Robert

 

[marragtop]

Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. It may not be full.

 

[mechjames]

i had this happen on my buddy's corolla. the clutch fluid was low. once we topped it up it felt like new. hopefully you haven't got any air in the system, then you will have to bleed the clutch.

 

[ClutchKick]

Ok so the resiviour was almost empty fille dit up feels a little better im going to let it sit and see if it needs anymore. i dont see any obvious leaks though....weird

 

[marragtop]

Trace the line going from the bottom of the cylinder to where it goes into the bell housing. That's where the clutch slave cylinder is. Look for signs of leakage there. Also, if you have introduced air into the system, you may need to bleed it. Do a search on 'explorer clutch bleed' for more info.

 

[ClutchKick]

So the slave is actually in the bellhousing.....WTF kind of design is that lol.
I love fords but wow......:thumbdwn:

 

[marragtop]

Another one of Fords (not so) BETTER IDEAs. If the slave is leaking, you have to pull the trans. Then you need to decide how much more $$ (clutch, bearing, .etc) to throw into it.

 

[ClutchKick]

Ill probably hold off im going to a buddys shop later to borrow his vacume bleeder. if that fixes it yay if not ill be renting out one of his bays and doing a full clutch kit slave and master everything.....or an auto swap not sure yet lmao

 

[marragtop]

Also, if you do have to replace the slave, you will need the Ford hydraulic clutch line disconnect tool to remove the line from the slave. I ended up ordering 1 from Snap On ($7), free delivery and showed up in 3 days.

 

[ClutchKick]

good to know thanks

 

[ClutchKick]

ok so upon closer inspection theres a hole in my line. the jackass that replaced the clutch befor i bought the truc let the line hang down on the exauhst....wow. and to top it off he broke the plastic ring thing on the line. any tips on getting the line fof now without breaking the slave too?

 

[marragtop]

As a starter, it sounds like you need to buy a new line which is about ($50) at Autozone. You may need to order it. Are you sure the keeper clip is broken? If you are referring to a white piece of plastic hanging from the line by the slave, that may not be the keeper clip. If you are unsure, use the line removal tool (kind of blindly) to see if you can get the retaining clip off. If you can't get the clip off, and since you need to buy the line anyway, I suggest using a dremel tool to cut the line away to where you can get the line clip off with a screwdriver or some sort of pick.

Hopefully this makes sense.

 

[ClutchKick]

I will have t look at it as i actually haent been under it yet. it was a mechanic freind of mine a this shop that told me the line was fubar. ive already got advanceauto holding a master with new line atached for me $65 does sound to bad to me. also i gess i need to get a vacume bleeder. hopefully the slave is really still good.

 

[marragtop]

Make sure you bench bleed the new master and line before you install it. If you don't you may have major problems bleeding it on the truck. Just do a google on 'bleed ford hydraulic clutch' and you will see what I mean.

 

[ClutchKick]

ok so the rings broken the one you push up wiht the tool to remove the line now what do i do.....

 

[ClutchKick]

ok so i have the disconect tool i havent tried iton the slave yet but i cant figure out how to get the line off the master help please!!!!

 

[ClutchKick]

ok so its missing the peice you depress with the tool....now what do i do?

 

[marragtop]

The line on the master cylinder is held on with a roll pin, but you should be able to remove the master cylinder with the line attached to it. You need to trace the line along the frame and free it from the clips.

 

[ClutchKick]

ok ive tried everything i turned the master i vacume bleed it everything and i still can get any pedal. there are no leaks however the oring where the line goes into the master doesnt seem to reall y lock up the line, it ot leaking but it may be sucking air back in I think. anyone else had this problem. i noticed it because i wiggle the line side to side a little bit.

 

[ClutchKick]

nvm put tire back on took it out of garage tomorow going to ford....ugh