Coolant temperature question that has come up with efan (2nd) change

[MuscleJunkie]

Sorry to hear the Contour setup didn't work out for you. It is definitely a bit of a PITA to setup correctly. The advantage to those fans is the extremely high output capability of the fans themselves. For example, I have an 800 hp supercharged 5.0L Mustang and live in southern Arizona where the ambient temperature is currently 110F. The Contour fan assembly literally overcools the engine with the AC running, to give you an idea of the massive amount of air they move. I estimate it must be around 3000 cfm with the restrictions in front of them. I'm actually using a Derale 2-speed 17" single fan with a full shroud for the radiator in my Monty, so don't feel bad giving up on the Contours!

To get those Contours to work correctly, 2 major tasks have to be performed, both of which are not really that much fun. First, a shroud has to be developed to completely capture the entire radiator core surface area. In my case, I've fabricated aluminum sheetmetal to achieve this and also function as a mount for the fan assembly. Care has to be taken to ensure adequate distance from the core and minimizing airflow losses around the core, so it is not a trivial undertaking in terms of design or fabrication. I have used a waterjet to cut sheetmetal and used a CNC brake to bend flanges to achieve the correct spacing.

The 2nd task is the electrical aspect of the Contour fans. A mere fuseholder will not suffice as the fans will literally pull over 120A of in-rush current if they both start up at full power. The only way to reliably accommodate this extreme electrical load is to use a 100A or larger circuit breaker. The gauge of the wiring has to be up to the task. The relays being used for each fan must be able to support the loads reliably and an electrical tie-in must be made to support the AC function as well.

Here's a shot of what I fabricated for the Mustang's radiator:
View attachment 453408

That looks nice. We did not go quite as far when trying the Contour Setup. The poor balance on the aftermarket Contour units that were tried created a vibration in the whole chassis (very slight but noticeable) that could never be resolved.

The Flex-A-Lite 180 has since worked without any issues (or vibrations.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input from all which help to point out the differences (+/-) about multiple fans and controllers etc. I still plan to put the Flexalite fan on mine and see how it fits and works. The Contour looks like a bad sizing and fit to out huge radiators, I'd much prefer one that's larger and centers better. I'd love to be able to go back to the thinner radiator to gain space, but only if I have plenty of cooling after I add a heat exchanger up front.

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input from all which help to point out the differences (+/-) about multiple fans and controllers etc. I still plan to put the Flexalite fan on mine and see how it fits and works. The Contour looks like a bad sizing and fit to out huge radiators, I'd much prefer one that's larger and centers better. I'd love to be able to go back to the thinner radiator to gain space, but only if I have plenty of cooling after I add a heat exchanger up front.

Don, think you are making the right choice with the Flex-A-Lite - its worked well so far for me. Looking forward to you finally getting around (and reading about it) to you doing all of these things which you have had planned.

 

[TekMan05]

Does the Flex a lite pull less Amps than the contour setup as well?

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Does the Flex a lite pull less Amps than the contour setup as well?

I didn’t make any changes when switching from one to another. Was running it on stock 130 amp/stock wire setup.

Now upgrading to 240amp/big 3 due to w2a intercooler and other fun stuff

 

[donalds]

The flex a lite 180 pulls 18 amps @ 3300cfm
It didn't cover my rad
I put it at the top of the rad because that's where it gets hot

 

[CDW6212R]

The flex a lite 180 pulls 18 amps @ 3300cfm
It didn't cover my rad
I put it at the top of the rad because that's where it gets hot

Ha, I saw that picture of the Contour fan at the top, and thought, the air has to go out the bottom 99%. I think if I covered part of it, I'd cover the top and suck it through the bottom of the radiator. But it is not critical, just a thought given the large amount not using the fans.

 

[CDW6212R]

I didn’t make any changes when switching from one to another. Was running it on stock 130 amp/stock wire setup.

Now upgrading to 240amp/big 3 due to w2a intercooler and other fun stuff

Jim, be sure that your alternator is tested fully, even if it's brand new. Most high amp models especially the 4G, they often make no more current at idle of off idle than stock. I was disappointed with my first high current unit(DB Electronics), and it was no better than stock when it worked. The last one I got works fine(stock 98 still), but others have had minor voltage glitches at times, affecting the ignition in their 347's.

Just be sure to test any alternator used for a high current demand system. Regards,

 

[MuscleJunkie]

Jim, be sure that your alternator is tested fully, even if it's brand new. Most high amp models especially the 4G, they often make no more current at idle of off idle than stock. I was disappointed with my first high current unit(DB Electronics), and it was no better than stock when it worked. The last one I got works fine(stock 98 still), but others have had minor voltage glitches at times, affecting the ignition in their 347's.

Just be sure to test any alternator used for a high current demand system. Regards,

Tom - the guy that was hand building alternators for EF members years ago just built one for me. Based off of everyone’s past experiences- I’m thinking I’ll have great luck with it..