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Cruise Control Problem, 04 EB not same as others

firefly1246

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 23, 2010
Messages
172
Reaction score
18
City, State
Greenville, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
'04 EB
After looking and reading every post on cruise control problems. I am still unable to fix my problem. When pressing the On button nothing happens, no light comes on. I have no codes when I use my scan tool (which if the pressure switch is broken will throw an abs code but not a check engine light, which is only viewable with the scan tools with ford abs code support). I have even replaced the pressure switch on the master cylinder (since it is only $10 on amazon). So the only thing I can deduce is it is either the clock springs or the actually switch on the steering wheel. I really don't want to fiddle with the airbag, but will if I need to. Has anyone had a similar problem, or worked on clock springs. Has anyone replaced or repaired the steering wheel controls (I have the cruise control and the radio control version).

Thanks!
 



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My family owns 5-6 Fords. On all of them, no light comes on when you push the "on" button for cruise control (something I think is a major oversight in design but all Ford Motor Co. cars are built this way). Some Fords do not have a light at all. My 1997 Mountaineer and my grandma's 2009 Explorer do have lights that come on when you push the "on" cruise button and then push the "set/accel" button to set a speed. Once you have pushed "on" to activate the system and pushed "set/accel" to set your speed, you should see a light come on at which point the cruise control takes over applying the accelerator.

Hope this helps.
 






Yes I agree. However the cruise control still doesn't work, after I hit the set button. I have verified there is a light that should come on my model.
 






I took the switch assembly out (screws onto the steering wheel), very simple. There was plenty of dirt and dried coffee in the small crevices between the buttons and probably between the contacts. I cleaned with mild cleaner and was able to restore the switch(es) and the cruise control has worked ever since. If I remember correctly, you will have to remove the 2 screws from the back of the streering wheel in order to remove the front cover to expose the switch. You will probably want to disconnect the neg. battery cable before you remove the cover, just in case. It comes off as a unit and doing so will not disturb clock spring or anything else. Takes about 3 minutes.
 






It doesn't appear on the 3rd gens the buttons can be as easily removed. It looks like I will have to take the horn button area off to access those buttons. I hope they are just dirty as new button assembly appears to be ~$140 as it is the whole assembly for both sides.
 






Update: I was able to remove the cruise control switch. I pulled back on the horn button and was able to access the screws with a small angle screwdriver(very tedious). The switches were clean, and the buttons really have no way of getting dirty on the 3rd gens as the electronic button are covered in rubber. On the back of the switch there are 3 leads. Using my multimeter I tested the resistance (of the top lead and the middle lead) (the bottom lead is for the illumination of the switches and will not vary in resistance). Pretty much each button changes the resistance so it is like a switchable potentiometer. My 2004 Explorer Workshop Manual states the following:
ON: 1195 to 2205 ohms
Off: <5 ohms
set+: 570 to 630 ohms
set - (coast): 285 to 315 ohms
resume: 1055 -1165 ohms

I was getting:
On: 1200ohms
Off: 1690ohms
Resume: 745ohms
set+ : 1690ohms
set - (coast/cst): 1690ohms

I also checked these connections after the clockspring, by disconnecting the 6pin connector underneath the steering column shroud and testing pins 4 and 5 on the connector and received the same resistances. This shows the clockspring was not causing the problem. So I have ordered new switches sw6003 ($132 amazon) they only come in pairs. Will update when the switches come in.
 






Update on this thread: The steering wheel control was the problem. I have now replaced the switch and it works perfect. I also confirmed the manual's resistances for each button. The wire diagram shows each button is a different rated resister.
 






Nice job, havent seen too many switch problems on the 2002 up.
 






Good job on troubleshooting the switches.
 






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