Cutting the full sized D44 and 9"? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Cutting the full sized D44 and 9"?

ahhjaws

Moab Edition Explorer
Joined
March 27, 2002
Messages
2,904
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City, State
Ft. Collins, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Explorer XLT
How hard will it be to cut them down? I imagine I would have to cut both sides so the connection to the driveshaft is still in the middle? Would I also cut the axle shafts too, or buy shorter ones? I am guessing it is worth doing this instead of doing the EB because of the high pinion and such? Any other good/bad things? I have found some fullsized 9" for $100 so I thought it might be worth doing extra work, since it's so cheap. Any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks!!
 



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hotwheels just shortened a HP 44 to EB width
 






For some of my pic's and info just follow the link in my sig, i used a 77 F150 D44 witch is different than a 78-79 bronco D44 for some diff info look here http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html just be warned cutting the diff is the cheapest part of the swap, any questions feel free to ask.
 






Go here ---> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/conv/dana44/fsj-cj/ , just disregard "Jeep", this info is good for all applications. You will need to send your shafts off to be cut and resplined by dutchman, moser, etc. for cutting the 9", just cut off equal amounts on the outside of the tubes. Currie sells new outers that you can weld back on. Good luck.
 






Just remember that the positioning of the knuckle ends on the front axle and the bearing cups on the rear MUST be 100% perfectly lined up before final welding. If they are off by .05 degrees the vehicle will not track properly, eat wheel bearings and flat out be unsafe to opperate.
 






Nobody would want to take a weekend around CO and help me this project around mid-May, would they? Hopefully someone who's done it before.
 






Originally posted by mrboyle
Just remember that the positioning of the knuckle ends on the front axle and the bearing cups on the rear MUST be 100% perfectly lined up before final welding. If they are off by .05 degrees the vehicle will not track properly, eat wheel bearings and flat out be unsafe to opperate.

That's why I paid someone to do mine.

As far as cutting the front goes, just cut off 5.97 inches from the passenger side so you can run an eb shaft there. Leave the drivers side alone. Your drive shaft angle will be fine.
 






Here's a ? I have, do they have to be cut or can you put full size axles under an Explorer? I will be undertaking a project similar to this soon I hope, cept with a Ranger though.
 






just ask ajevenson, anything is possible
truck_before___after.jpg
 






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