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Darker winter skies; older headlights @ 25%?




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Why oem only
 






I wouldn't only look at OEM replacements. OEM Ford parts are usually ridiculously overpriced. Look for aftermarket replacements with good customer reviews. If you new headlight assemblies don't come with new bulbs, replace your headlight bulbs, as they get dimmer over time.
 






I recently got replacements for my 97' from RA, they were clearance items and only $20 bucks a side, I think made by TYC, and they fit exactly like the original. HUGE improvement in look and function! I kept the originals because I might try to "restore" them, and as back up just in case. I am running out of room for all my spare parts.
 






I doubt OEM Motorcraft headlights are even still available. Ford doesn't continue to make/stock parts for 20 year old vehicles. By law i think they're only required to keep stock replacement parts for 10 years. If your headlights are that dim ("25%") I'd also check your voltage to the headlights and grounds.

I'd go with RockAuto and the TYC replacement headlights. They're still only around $22 each and it says they include bulb and socket.
2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Headlamp Assembly | RockAuto
 






Meh, it states quote "This type of headlamp, halogen reflector, only supports night-time driving (low beam) on unlit roadways at speeds up to 39 miles per hour, when in new condition." I get it, they're regurgitating what someone else spec'd about how much light you need to be *safe*, but I call it nonsense. Of all road hazard and accident causes, inability to see further just isn't usually one of them unless it's heavily raining or foggy, or the problem was the opposite, that someone blinded you with their LED retrofit drop-in headlights.

I've been driving all my life, safely, at 40+MPH using low beams. If there is low traffic, and lots of curves and hills (common around here) I'll switch my high beams on, but remember they are talking about NEW condition. I have no problem going 40MPH with low beams in DIY restored condition for 90% of my night time driving...

... but I don't have a 2007 Malibu or Altima, the only two samples they bothered to test.

That said, my '98 spent a lot of time in a garage instead of direct sunlight so they were never as bad as the used ones shown in that linked article, and the TYC replacements at $22 are a great value. We're fortunate that the assembly isn't more complex and integrated. 5th gen headlight housings cost $350++.
 






I think you'd be well served, in my opinion, to get good housings, even aftermarkets, and go get a set of high end halogen bulbs. I polished the ones out on my Eddie Bauer years ago, and put high end bulbs in there, zero complaints even on the highway late at night.
 






Good comments: Thanks! The AAA graph on p. 25 shows that after-markets (AM) are very close to OEMs in brightness.
And 'True' that they're only 31% of the cost of OEM's (F5TZ-13008-B $59.39; F5TZ-13008-A $58.47 at Discount OEM Ford Racing & Replacement Parts | Village Ford + $20. shipping!) (for AMs) at Rockauto!
In-any-event: AM/TYC's would be a big improvement over my originals. [Besides: I was told (Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply) that the reflective coating inside old headlamps degrades in addition to the degradation of the lens clarity.]
So 'replacement' at this point with the AM variety seems cost-effective with a generous/substantial improvement in brightness. (As a 65+driver, I'm aware that my vision--especially at night--isn't what it used to be; even wearing glasses for distance correction.)
BTW: The same consultant has instructions for re-aiming headlights: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
 

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...TYC's would be a big improvement over my originals.
Well, it's 'fun' to look at my new, CLEAR TYCs instead of my 20-yr-old, foggy-yellowed OEM Ford's. But...I'm not that impressed with the improvement in brightness.
I AM IMPRESSED that the ORIGINAL Sylvania HB5/9007 bulbs dated 'Sep 30 99' (dirty-enough to be the original bulbs!) survived 20 years! (The TYC's came pre-loaded with the exact, same-model bulbs.)
I'm mystified what 'reflector pattern' I'm supposed to see with the beams from the new headlamps? I've adjusted them so the low beams are (roughly) ~2" lower than straight-ahead (at 25') and ~slightly-toward center-line. High beam is way-higher than horizontal (but I rarely use them). (If they can be adjusted any better it will have to wait for my next State Inspection next Fall.)
 






I found NOS OEM headlights with 1997 manufacturing dates for my Mountaineer on ebay, for around $50 each.

Explorer lights should be easier to find.

I'm helping my brother find NOS OEM parts for his 93 Mustang, they're out there.

In my experience the OEM lights don't yellow anywhere near as quickly as the Asian knock offs.

What matters most is the quality of the actual bulb.

And we will NEVER get the LED performance from ours.
 






TYC isn't all that. I replaced my lenses almost 2 years ago & they are starting to haze over.... Granted my X sits unused for periods of time baking in the FL sun & heat, but still 2 years?
 






Even with brand new OEM headlights and bulbs the design of the Explorer headlights does not produce very good night-time illumination. It's just the way they are. Be satisfied knowing that you now have the best night illumination possible given the design of your headlights. You might get slightly better night-time illumination by installing high-end Sylvania Silverstar headlight bulbs, but it will be at the cost of bulb longevity. Don't expect to get 20 years out of Silverstar bulbs. In my experience they may only last 2 years.

Just a thought... @Terkins - IDK how old you are, but if you find you can no longer see very well at night you might want to see an eye doctor. I found I wasn't seeing very well by the time I in my mid 60's and was told I had cataracts that were pretty bad. The change in vision is so gradual you don't notice it. After having cataract surgery and getting lens implants I can now see sooo much better (and no longer need to wear glasses for driving). I'd estimate that I had a 30-35% loss in my vision at the time of my cataract surgery. Colors are much brighter now too. Cataract surgery sounds like it would be horrible, but it was really a piece of cake. Slight discomfort for a day or two and fantastic vision by the 2nd-3rd day.
 






It's just the way they are. Be satisfied knowing that you now have the best night illumination possible given the design of your headlights.
That's what I thought. 'Thanks' for spelling it out.
[('Cataracts' are the least of my concerns!) Possible renal cell cancer, both kidneys failing fast, 'ticker' out of synch/ weakening, 'oil-lines clogging', & 'PCM module' 'shorting out'! This '53 junker is soon-to-see the scrap yard!]
 






I used some from Summit Racing. They are made in Taiwan are are
pretty much copies of the stock almost down to the mounting
sled at the housing.

There is a write-up here on using a 12 mm socket to pop the mounts out.
Measure how far it is from the face on the lens to the flat part of the adjuster after
the light is out. This will transfer to new light so it does not poke out to far nor in to far when done.

Lube the old black plastic mounts and remove them from the old lights and transfer to new lights.
The new copies of the black plastic mounts is very thin and breaks easy!




s
 






There is a write-up here on using a 12 mm socket to pop the mounts out.

'Would've helped.'

It was getting dark/cold outside and the fixed-plastic mounting frame was a barrier to accessing release-tabs behind the headlamp housing mounts. I dissected/destroyed the old adjusting mounts to 'get the job done'.

The TCY mounts were adequate but minimal (too).
 






I am happy with the NOS OEM headlights and the Philips Xtreme Power bulbs I use. Spare set of bulbs in my stash somewhere.

I try to at least clean the headlights once a month, and apply a few layers of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze wax.
 






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