Dashboard lights

[mezrein]

Ive been browsing ebay looking at various different colored LED lights for the dashlights, and came across something Im confused on, here's a quote

"Some models use the larger 194 wedge base and some models use this smaller mini 17, 37 & 70 wedge base. This listing is for the mini wedge."

What are they talking about? and how can I tell what wedge type I have?

 

[natenkiki2004]

I'm pretty sure the first gens just use a 194, at least the clusters with the 6-digit odometer. I haven't looked at the back of a 7-digit odometer dash but I'd imagine they're the same.

One more important thing to think about is the coloring of the plastic on the cluster cover. They're a transparent green so if you put a red in there, it will look pretty hideous and dim. Many people here have swapped out the cover for one of those euro-style white ones or have very carefully scraped the green off.

 

[mezrein]

I'm pretty sure the first gens just use a 194, at least the clusters with the 6-digit odometer. I haven't looked at the back of a 7-digit odometer dash but I'd imagine they're the same.

One more important thing to think about is the coloring of the plastic on the cluster cover. They're a transparent green so if you put a red in there, it will look pretty hideous and dim. Many people here have swapped out the cover for one of those euro-style white ones or have very carefully scraped the green off.

Interesting, mine has the 7 digit cluster, 6 main and the decimal digit. What is the cover your talking about? I know the numbering is transparent green, was thinking about doing a blue to go with Cyan for the end color, but now Im intrigued by the cover idea. Also, any idea where I can get those keys that remove radio's after the faceplate is removed? Ive lost mine and cant remove my dash without getting the radio out first.

 

[mezrein]

Interesting, mine has the 7 digit cluster, 6 main and the decimal digit. What is the cover your talking about? I know the numbering is transparent green, was thinking about doing a blue to go with Cyan for the end color, but now Im intrigued by the cover idea. Also, any idea where I can get those keys that remove radio's after the faceplate is removed? Ive lost mine and cant remove my dash without getting the radio out first.

And if anyone knows where to buy one Id be greatful!

 

[Dr Mordekaiser]

Hey. I thinking have found the perfect site for you. They make awesome custom gauge covers for every car.
http://www.blackcatcustom.com/products.
It's not too expensive either I believe to do my 1999 mounty it's like 90$ for the white face with Aqua backlights.

Check it out!!

Also, the tools to remove the radio are here.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7575-Radio-Removal-Tool/dp/B0002SRBJ8

 

[mezrein]

Hey. I thinking have found the perfect site for you. They make awesome custom gauge covers for every car.
http://www.blackcatcustom.com/products.
It's not too expensive either I believe to do my 1999 mounty it's like 90$ for the white face with Aqua backlights.

Check it out!!

Also, the tools to remove the radio are here.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7575-Radio-Removal-Tool/dp/B0002SRBJ8

Not sure that tool is the right one, I have an after market radio. I was thinking the tool that looks more like a key

 

[Dr Mordekaiser]

I used these to get my head unit out of my 99 mounty. They are pretty slandered on all ford cars except newer ones. Not sure what other keys here are.

Otherwise on my aftermarket unit I can take the whole dash out with a flat head screwdriver. Slides out pretty easy once you have gotten it off the first time.

 

[Wolfie_85]

You can get the radio removal tools (for just about anything, aftermarket or not) online.

 

[2stroke]

Both 94s I have use 194 bulbs. There are 5 bulbs for just the back lighting, but quite a few more for things like abs,check engine, parking brake etc. I just did the 5 backlash bulbs with white LED and they are very bright. I have to turn the brightness down at night. Whatever color you choose is what the dial arms will be. I wouldn't get red or green, but orange, yellow, blue, and white should work well.

 

[natenkiki2004]

2stroke, where did you get your bulbs and could you post a picture? Funny timing on this, last night I turned my marker lights on and looked down at the dash just in time to see one of the backlights burn out. Since I gotta pull the cluster, may as well throw LEDs in it.

 

[2stroke]

I can post a picture tonight, I just ordered the bulbs from rock auto. All they are is 2 packs of Philips 194 LED dash bulbs.


https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=6318885&cc=1119631&jnid=517&jpid=10

 

[2stroke]

Sorry, I almost forgot about this. It turns out its not the easiest thing to take a picture of. You get an idea of the colors with white LED bulbs at least. The green/red/orange looks the same as stock but the big change is the gauge arms and odometer/trip, and both are extremely bright white.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I was noticing my gauge cluster tonight, the needles are orange but they are just clear plastic like you said. I've got some white LED's ordered, very curious to see how it ends up. Thanks for the update picture.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I ended up ordering some bulbs off of eBay, they're white 5050 ceramic 194 bulbs with 5 LEDs each.

Here's the specific link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391099189794

Powering them up initially out of the package, I was a bit disappointed. But after spending the time to put them into the cluster, I'm very impressed. Having pure white light is a huge improvement of the dull orange/yellow. They're not too bright and there was no clearance issues.

I did have one problem, quality control and design. All the bulbs work but the leads that make the connection didn't always connect into the plastic holders. On a few bulbs, I had to bend them a bit with my fingernail to ensure contact. I also had to bend a few of the brass contacts on the factory bulb holders. Only 2 needed it out of 15 so it wasn't bad. I feel like going back and doing it to all of them so they don't rattle loose over time.

I'll get some pictures once I get the dash all back together.


*EDIT*
It should be noted that you may not want to replace the battery indicator light. It's part of the charging circuit (remove the bulb and it won't charge) so instead of hassling with a diode and resistor, I just opted to leave the incandescent bulb in place for that one. Everything else looks ok to be swapped over.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Here's a picture of mine, pretty much identical results to 2stroke. It was a pain to get everything apart, especially the speedo cable but in the end, it's well worth it.

 

[natenkiki2004]

After driving today, I love the lights. They're a fantastic and cheap upgrade. However... the RABS light is on all the time, dimly. I think it's due to the lower resistance of the circuit and I want to ensure that the ABS works so I'll be pulling the dash and putting a regular bulb in place.

 

[2stroke]

After driving today, I love the lights. They're a fantastic and cheap upgrade. However... the RABS light is on all the time, dimly. I think it's due to the lower resistance of the circuit and I want to ensure that the ABS works so I'll be pulling the dash and putting a regular bulb in place.

The resistance of an LED bulb is infinite, and goes to nearly zero when on. Either way, its not the problem. Like it or not, the problem is most likely the foam divider between the lights. I once had a problem where when my check engine light was on, my left turn signal was as well. Not really of coarse, but it looked like that.

 

[natenkiki2004]

The resistance of an LED bulb is infinite, and goes to nearly zero when on. Either way, its not the problem. Like it or not, the problem is most likely the foam divider between the lights. I once had a problem where when my check engine light was on, my left turn signal was as well. Not really of coarse, but it looked like that.

When you have the dash cover off, you can see into the individual tunnels for the lights under the gauges. It was only the RABS light that was on, it's next to the turn signal and 4x4 lights, neither of which were on. The LED was half-lit after the RABS light was supposed to go off. I swapped it out for an incandescent and it no longer does that.

I also noticed that when I turn the key to ON, both the 4x4 and low range lights flicker once very dimly. Not bad, it's just interesting to see that.

Maybe it's the Chinese LEDs or maybe it's just how they behave, I don't know. I ran into a similar problem when I got LED bulbs for a trailer I have. I ran the trailer wiring on 2 vehicles and the trailer itself, everything was proper with colors and polarity, triple-checked. On one vehicle the lights worked flawlessly. Yet, with my Explorer, a turn signal would illuminate both left & right lights. After much more testing and checking things out with a test light, everything was as it should be. Swapping the LED bulbs out for the regular incandescents and it worked properly when hooked to my Explorer. I thought it might have been a bridged solder joint but replacing either of the LED bulbs with an incandescent made the lights work properly. I don't know what the cause is/was but I know it's not my wiring. I think it just comes down to how LEDs are electrically different.

 

[KEN's Exploder]

Just changed the 17 bulbs in the dash today. The 1994 explorer has some old plastic that cracked in a few places. Hope I don't ever have to go into the dash again. Noticed a large amount of metal dust on the lower plastic shroud on the steering column. Seems to be under the automatic shift lever. Anyone else notice the same? Does it need to be lubricated? If so, where?