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Decreasing IAT on my Supercharged SOHC V6

I installed a Banshee M90 supercharger kit on my 2000 Explorer Sport with the 4.0L SOHC V6 engine.
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The intake air temperature (IAT) climbed to 174 degrees during my last set of of pulls on the dyno.
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As the IAT increases the PCM reduces spark advance to avoid detonation. Max power is reduced when the spark advance is less than optimum. The IAT is OK during normal driving and is excessive only during boost. There is an intercooler in the intake manifold between the output of the M90 blower and the head intake ports.
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I installed a stock external ATF cooler on the driver side to act as a heat exchanger for the intercooler. Some airflow is blocked by hoses associated with my remote full flow and bypass oil filters, the passenger side external ATF cooler, and the thermostatically controlled engine oil cooler. Also, the lower part of the grille support blocks the lower two rows of the stacked plate cooler.
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At first I thought the high IAT was due to the vehicle being stationary during dyno testing but during a short street pull a high IAT (164 deg F.) was also datalogged on a warm day driving at 50 mph.
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There is about 1.5 inches between the back of the cooler and the front of the A/C condenser.
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There is also room in front of the cooler if some of the hoses are relocated. I'm thinking about moving the cooler up and forward enough to place a puller fan between the cooler and the A/C condenser to increase airflow thru the cooler. My goal is to reduce the maximum IAT to about 150 degrees.
 



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Air filter cover

I modified the stock air filter cover by cutting out a large section and then attaching a piece of aluminum with a 100 degree bend and the upper half section of a bleach bottle.
AirFilterCover1.jpg

Then I added several layers of fiberglass tape and epoxy left over from a wood boat building project from many years ago.
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I applied a couple coats of Fusion for plastic spray paint.
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In a year when I clean the reusable Amsoil air filter I may smooth the outside and spray again for better appearance.
I was unable to find a 4 inch diameter friction fit gasket to attach to the cover so I made one out of 3/8" dia. nonporous caulk saver. I cut a length a little shorter than the dia. of the MAF sensor adapter tube. Then I glued the ends together with a short length of 18 gauge, insulated, stranded wire poked in each end to keep the ends centered and together.
AirFilterCoverSeal.jpg
 



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There's nothing easy about modifying that air box. Looks like its coming along nicely.
I can hardly wait to see the finished product mounted in your truck.
 






No coolant or oil leaks!

I finished my initial modification and installation of the air filter cover.
AirFilterCover6.jpg

I started the engine and let it run for about 15 minutes. I checked every coolant, engine oil and ATF hose and fitting connection and there were no leaks. It's been quite a while (months) since the engine ran and the battery charge was low. Consequently, my 240 amp alternator was outputting high current and there was infrequent belt slip at the alternator pulley for the first few minutes after engine start. The belt configuration with the M90 allows marginal belt wrap of the alternator pulley.
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I've replaced the tensioner pulley in the past but never the tensioner. I'll try that first. Eventually, I may install another idler pulley and reconfigure the belt to increase belt wrap at the alternator pulley.
I'm in the process of wiring for the time delay circuit. After a successful test of the heat exchanger fan energized by the time delay circuit I'll install the seats, center console and the front end of the vehicle.
 






Your almost there!
On my ohv, I had about the same belt config as you, and my alternator pulley actually started to turn blue. Im guessing this was from belt slip causing heat. Keep an eye on it.
 






Off delay timer

I purchased a project box at Radio Shack (270-1802) that was just slightly larger than the off delay timer circuit board. I drilled ventilation holes in the sides and filed notches in the circuit card to fit the box.
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The large capacitor is tall enough to touch the lid and I installed some thick adhesive tape to press against the relay top to keep the board in place.
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I also cut some slits in the ends of the box for connecting wires to the terminals.
 






Off delay board installed

I connected the wires to the circuit board after confirming that the input and output grounds are connected together on the circuit board trace allowing me to eliminate another wire.
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Then I attached the top of the box with the supplied screws, installed flexible looms and positioned the unit below the radio support slide.
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Eventually I may replace all of those wire nuts for the radio connections with soldered/heat shrink connections. But first I have to confirm the radio works. If I have to purchase an aftermarket radio it may have a different connector.

After starting the engine I flipped on the energize toggle switch mounted on the center console and confirmed the heat exchanger fan was running. Then I flipped the switch off. The fan stopped running after a couple minutes. It will be a few days before I can test the fan operation with the Hobbs switch since I doubt there is any boost without loading the engine (driving the vehicle).
 






Hobbs switch works

Today while doing one last oil leak check before starting reassembly of the front end I "blipped" the throttle and was surprised to hear the heat exchanger fan start up and then run for two minutes and shut off. That means there was at least 1 psi of boost when I blipped the throttle and the Hobbs switch is working.
 












ok, if the suspense is killing me, it has to be getting to you also.

Get out there and go for a rip!
 






Yea get out there!!! Everything turned out really nice, good job..o and love the plate..
 






Unintentional transmission flush

My Sport has just been sitting in the garage the past few weeks while I worked on the DOHC V8. Today I drove about 10 miles with the V8 in the back to a head repair shop to get a few main bearing side bolts removed that I couldn't remove without an impact tool. On the way home the transmission started acting peculiar and wouldn't upshift to overdrive. I pulled into a parking lot between two vacant buildings and found transmission fluid leaking onto the pavement. I walked home (3 miles) and got my wife to ride back with me (and 5 quarts of ATF in a box) to the Sport in her Grand Cherokee. I only put in 1.5 quarts which was enough to get the Sport home but I had to keep the engine speed up to keep the gears engaged. Obviously with the cold weather the ATF pressure is greater and a fitting or hose clamp isn't tight enough. Hopefully, I can fix the problem by just removing the bumper to get access.
 






Explorer

Awesome license plate!
Did you get that trans leak fixed?
How are those IAT's?
 






ATF leak fixed

In South Carolina I get a senior discount for the personalized license plate.

Yes, I fixed the ATF leak. I didn't even have to remove the bumper - just the top inspection cover. I simply forgot to tighten one of the numerous hose clamps and the associated hose separated from a fitting. I had to add about 3 quarts to get the level back to normal. So far I haven't detected any damage as a result of my oversight.

I haven't bothered to check the IATs yet because the weather has been cold. The blower is working fine. Kicks in at 1 psi boost and continues to run for my set time after no boost. I can also start it at any time from the center console switch.
 












Reflect-A-Gold?

No, I haven't considered using it. I don't know what I would do with it. I assume the high IAT is due to the supercharger compressing the intake air just prior to it entering the head intake ports. I installed an improvised intercooler (heater core) between the supercharger output and the head intake ports. However, the intercooler effectiveness is insufficient on a hot day so I installed a blower on the heat exchanger for the intercooler coolant.
 






No, I haven't considered using it. I don't know what I would do with it. I assume the high IAT is due to the supercharger compressing the intake air just prior to it entering the head intake ports. I installed an improvised intercooler (heater core) between the supercharger output and the head intake ports. However, the intercooler effectiveness is insufficient on a hot day so I installed a blower on the heat exchanger for the intercooler coolant.

Wrap everything :D you could wrap the nonfin parts of the intercooler, intake tubes, air box, intake manifold. Whatever you feel like.

I've heard decreases around 10*F of course every vehicle would be different. But even 5* might be worth the effort.
 






Blower Fan

That was a great idea for the blower fan controller. Kind of mimics the operation of the intercooler pump on the Factory supercharged vehicles like the Lightning. For a quick spurt it should be quite effective as the coolant in the intercooler radiator will be staying there getting cooled off till it is needed.
Glad to hear the trans seems to be fine. Can't wait till the warmer weather gets here, I miss my garage!
 






Rather than purchase 2 new -8 AN fittings for my Centennial fuel system I decided to remove the engine oil cooler thermostat on my Sport and reuse 2 of its fittings. With my street driving I've never seen the engine oil temperature greater than 200 degrees F and the thermostat is specified for 215 degrees F so there is no significant flow of engine oil thru the cooler. I suspect the 2 remote engine oil filters and associated plumbing provide some cooling. I'm also planning to convert the engine oil cooler to an additional intercooler heat exchanger. I've removed the bumper to gain access to the thermostat and some of the plumbing but don't want to take the time while in the middle of my DOHC V8 build to remove the grille and headlights to gain access to all of the plumbing.
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I'm considering just configuring the bottom heat exchanger to be in series with, but after the fan cooled heat exchanger.
 






It was fairly easy to disconnect and remove the oil thermostat and its associated fittings.
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Then it was just a matter of connecting a vertical length of hose connected to the Tee connecting the bypass and full flow filter returns and adding a 90 degree elbow between the vertical hose and the horizontal return hose.
 



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I had to take the last 10 ten days off to do some long overdue spring related yard work. Today it rained so I was able to get back to the intercooler heat exchanger enhancement. I cut the upper hose from the upper heat exchanger and installed two right angle fittings to route the coolant to and from the lower heat exchanger.
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Then I used my Dremel with a cut off wheel to make a notch in the A/C condenser bracket and then rounded the notch with a grinding stone in my electric drill.
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Then I connected the hoses to the fittings and installed the fittings.
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I started the engine and detected no oil or coolant leaks.
 






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