leadfootdriver
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- December 2, 2014
- Messages
- 104
- Reaction score
- 33
- City, State
- Westland, Mi
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 Explorer XLT 4.0 FFV
The Vehicle made a quick high pitch noise when I would shift from Reverse to Drive for a long time. It drove fine but it finally started to lose the 1-2 and OD shifts.. Did the research and it pointed to the OD Servo. I found the links to AJ1E Superior Solutions and here we are. For over a year I was Column Shifting, starting out in 2nd and then to 3rd and Drive. It got me by but no Overdrive.. I bought the OD Servo and Snap Ring Pliers. They were out of the Square Drive for the Band adjustment but found it on Amazon along with a descent Chamfer Bit Set.
I really struggled with the Heat Shields but the Snap Ring wasn't that bad and ended up just prying out one end with a small Screwdriver.. You must relive the tension on the Ring by wedging in your block of Wood. There's no other way. Same with installing. When I got the Cap off I was surprised to find that the Servo completely failed..
The Instructions said to work out the rough edges in the Bore with a Dowel and Sand Paper, but there was no appreciable wear that I could detect so I skipped that step. I did Chamfer the Bore to aid the O-Rings on install. I used a 90 degree Adapter and Drill set to slow and about half Trigger. I got a nice even cut 1st try. I used a light pressure, so it cuts quick and easy.
I took the old Shaft, loaded it up with Assembly Grease and worked it in and out to lube the Bore. I then layered the inside of the Case and the new Servo with more Assembly Grease. I lined up the new Part and setup my Prybar and Block and it just popped right in without any trouble at all. I thought this would be the hardest part of the job, but it was the easiest. I wedged my Wood Block on the Cap and used the new Pliers to maneuver in the Snap Ring. It took a few times, but if you can get it in there mostly, you can push the rest home with your small Screwdriver..
I took it for a drive soon after and 2nd Gear shifted firmly right away, and the OD Light went away on the Dash. It was little rough but it was there just driving normally. Day 2 I did the Band adjustment. I didn't count how many turns it went in because that Jam Nut hasn't been touched in 20 years and it was a pain to work it loose. I left the Front Driveshaft in but disconnected the Cable Bracket and pushed it out of the way. I torqued to 120inch/10 ft lbs and backed off 1.5 turns per the Online Instructions. I reset the power and went for a drive.
Now the shifts are mostly seamless and it drives like new. It's amazing. No more Check Engine Light or flashing OD Light.. 'Couldn't be more thankful, thanks to the info on this Forum. I hope this helps someone still driving these Vehicles.. This is a worthwhile fix at about $200 all in. It beats a new car payment.
Cheers.
I really struggled with the Heat Shields but the Snap Ring wasn't that bad and ended up just prying out one end with a small Screwdriver.. You must relive the tension on the Ring by wedging in your block of Wood. There's no other way. Same with installing. When I got the Cap off I was surprised to find that the Servo completely failed..
The Instructions said to work out the rough edges in the Bore with a Dowel and Sand Paper, but there was no appreciable wear that I could detect so I skipped that step. I did Chamfer the Bore to aid the O-Rings on install. I used a 90 degree Adapter and Drill set to slow and about half Trigger. I got a nice even cut 1st try. I used a light pressure, so it cuts quick and easy.
I took the old Shaft, loaded it up with Assembly Grease and worked it in and out to lube the Bore. I then layered the inside of the Case and the new Servo with more Assembly Grease. I lined up the new Part and setup my Prybar and Block and it just popped right in without any trouble at all. I thought this would be the hardest part of the job, but it was the easiest. I wedged my Wood Block on the Cap and used the new Pliers to maneuver in the Snap Ring. It took a few times, but if you can get it in there mostly, you can push the rest home with your small Screwdriver..
I took it for a drive soon after and 2nd Gear shifted firmly right away, and the OD Light went away on the Dash. It was little rough but it was there just driving normally. Day 2 I did the Band adjustment. I didn't count how many turns it went in because that Jam Nut hasn't been touched in 20 years and it was a pain to work it loose. I left the Front Driveshaft in but disconnected the Cable Bracket and pushed it out of the way. I torqued to 120inch/10 ft lbs and backed off 1.5 turns per the Online Instructions. I reset the power and went for a drive.
Now the shifts are mostly seamless and it drives like new. It's amazing. No more Check Engine Light or flashing OD Light.. 'Couldn't be more thankful, thanks to the info on this Forum. I hope this helps someone still driving these Vehicles.. This is a worthwhile fix at about $200 all in. It beats a new car payment.
Cheers.
