ding ding - round two

[bluestack]

Hi,

I'm back again, and Glacier saved me a fortune the last time - but this time - not such an easy fix, and could with some more advice before deciding what to do.

Bit of hist:
Had a problem with a slipping solenoid (drive and overdrive), which after some advice from Glacier, turned out to be a burnt wire grounding.

Anyway, this time.....

Pulled into the car park, felt the tranny labour, or slip slightly - pulled into a space and saw a line of drops which after checking the under the car was leaking from between the tranny. Sorry for the laymans terms - but where the slighly funnel shaped section connects to the front boxy shaped section just under the engine (if it wasn't late and dark I'd have taken a pic).

Anyway - I had to get somewhere - so I let the car cool down - checked the tranny fluid, which had loads, and got going again - no problem with slipping this time.

Checked for further drops along the way and nothing - until boom - it just started slipping and wouldn't engage - cue lots of blue smoke out the back - tranny oil on exhaust ???

Pulled into another car park and checked - this time loads of leaking underneath, would engage - but no 'pull' in either drive or reverse - although the initial clunk as it engages was there.

Need to go back and get it sorted - any ideas ?

And also anyone know/recommend anywhere near Springhill/Brooksville down Florida way ?

Thanks.

P.S
'91 XL, 4wd, 160k miles

 

[Glacier991]

I have experienced similar... but involved a long uphill grade. In my case the OD band was slipping.... and acting as a great internal ATF oil heater.... the ATF eventually boiled up and out the overflow vent and was blown on the exhaust....when I parked it I got a little puddle of fluid.

That was 20,000 miles ago. I changed the fluid, and adjusted the bands. I now shift OUT of OD on long uphills and watch the RPM's carefully when I am loaded and the tranny is stressed.

I am going to guess you have a similar problem, BUT the big Q is were you going uphill or was this pretty normal (on the flat) driving? If it is the latter that's not a good sign.


ps. Lack of engagment is usually a fluid level issue in this situation... if yours is not a fluid livel issue you clearly have other problems as well.

While there IS a chance you have a front seal leaking or other issues, for now and without more I am staying with my overheating hypothesis in terms of my advice.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I've had similar issues while running the A/C while driving on an incline at highway speed. My fan clutch, thermostat, radiator cap, radiator, timing chain, water pump, and belts were bad. My temperature gauge did not creep up though, so it wasn't obvious what was causing the problem at first.

 

[bluestack]

ah Glacier, thanks for your help the last time..

I live in Florida, so no thing as a long uphill really..

Although I did note, that I'd come across some hills for the first time since living here. And I was pushing on a fair bit,with some uphill acceleration.
But at least the last half hour to hour was on the flat.

It was also the longest drive I'd done since owning the truck and therefore probably the hottest it's got in a long time..

If it's not the overheating - which was a thought of mine - with the high distance/speed/temp causing the ATF to be forced out, what else could it possibly be. Been having no issues since the wiring loom fix. Although did notice a low ticking noise - really regularly at pretty much bang on 6 secs...

 

[Glacier991]

I fear worse, but to start with (in the order of least expensive and easiest) I'd adjust the bands and change the fluid....

 

[bluestack]

hi,

ok - garage called back and yep they want to do a rebuild at $1500.

They said the overdrive was slipping and causing the ATF to boil and force it's way through the bellhousing, this is happening in both OD and D.

I've got a quote of $1097 from a place on the web called transmission-1.com, and this is for a rebuild inc clutch, gasket, o-ring, reseal kit.

Anyone know about this company and what's included in the rebuild is enough to hopefully address the problem - or can I expect hard part damage ?
I know - hard to guess - but some advice would be welcome in these types of situations.

Thanks in advance.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Some places give quotes of $900, then open it up to find hard part damage. The price suddenly goes up to $1,700. It's hard to say how much it will be without opening it up. Some places don't rebuild the valve bodies. They either skip that part of the process, or sometimes install a rebuilt valve body. Some places will rebuild your valve body, but expect to tie up your vehicle for an extra day or two waiting for this. Some shops keep already rebuilt units in stock, and will swap your transmission with one of those. They could get it back to you the next day, and wouldn't have any hidden surprises since they have already rebuilt them. They would use your transmission as a core. Not many shops do this due to a lack of room to keep every transmission on the market. Sometimes they will have common ones such as your A4LD. Keep in mind that there are many variations of the A4LD. The valve body check balls are rearranged for different engine sizes. The 3.0L 4X2, and 4.0L 4X4 have different extension housings which are not interchangeable. The torque converters are different for the 3.0L, and 4.0L. The internal parts are the most updated in the 94 which was the last year they were built.

 

[bluestack]

That's given me some questions - I was quoted from one garage 1500 max and that'll include any hard parts.

The other place online - said 1000, plus anywhere between 400 and 600 depending on hard parts required..with a 2 year warranty - I'll ask them about the steps involved and how thorough the work is.

Thanks for that..more invaluable advice - cheers.

 

[Glacier991]

The A4LD needs more than a simple gasket and seals kit to have any longevity. If you are going to only have that, go for cheapest.