Do I need to remove cams to replace lash adjusters, roller followers and valve seals on 3v Triton ?

[Explorer_PL]

Hello everyone -
It does not look like our 06 v8 is leaving the family anytime soon since my youngest driver in the family inherited it from me with just 300k and she likes it.
It's running strong, transmission shifts great (still OEM), the only issue is that the current engine that has about 150k smokes a little oil on the startup. I am pretty sure the valve seals are the problem, I don't need to add oil so the consumption is minimal, it just stinks when you start it. I'll probably do compression test to rule out piston rings but assuming all checks out, I want to replace the seals. Since I'll be there, I plan to also replace also lash adjusters and roller followers, because .......because it's my daughter's car now and you guys know how that goes, it needs to be almost perfect

Anyway, I am hoping for the real techs (BoominX - are you there ?) to chime in here. Can I do all that with the cams in place ? Also, can I use pistons in TDC to support valves and do a cylinder at a time or compressed air is recommended ?

I appreciate and welcome any hints and advices.

Thanks

PS: And valve springs .....

 

[boominXplorer]

I use shop air with compressor tester end to pressurize the cylinders (have to remove Schrader valve) to do valve work on mod motors.

Just remove the timing chain then the cams and pull out all the cam followers. If your not doing the cams or the chains then install the wedge you'd use to remove the phasers with the timing cover on. Then loosen the cam caps evenly and the cam will lift up enough to get the followers out.

Reinstall the cam (without followers, all valves are now closed). Now you can use the tool to compress the springs and remove the valve locks. Make sure you have the cylinder pressurized before servicing the valves on that cylinder.

Ive seen 3v valve springs snap in multiple pieces before so replacing them wouldn't be a bad idea.

One thing to consider is the crank could turn with the shop air. It's best to install a flywheel lock to keep it from turning but you could also tie off a breaker bar to the crank bolt / frame rail to keep it from turning.

You could always to it one cylinder at a time and use the tool to remove the followers and not mess with timing chain or cam caps but it takes a bit longer that way. You still have to air lock the cylinder though

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks a lot for such a detail explanation.

Sounds like I can do that with the front cover on, by just lifting the cams a little and using the "cheese" wedge. But it seems that taking the cams off would make it much easier to get the springs and seals out.
When I installed this engine, it came from a wreck and had 55k. I did the complete timing job with Ford OEM parts right then, phasers, bolts, chains, guides and tensioners so this timing kit has 100k miles on it. Maybe I'll pull the front cover off and replace the tentioners but leave everything as is. The engine is really smooth and strong, just that stupid smoke from seals.

What brand do you use for replacement parts ?

I am looking at this set for a Mustang, just rocker arms and lifters:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-rocker-arm-and-lash-adjuster-kit-4-6l-3v-2005-2010/p/M65293V/?year=2007&gclid=CjwKCAiAkJKCBhAyEiwAKQBCklQJRa2HcJUP36h1OCzgm7Kb08-0FO2104vykCOU7l7MgDM-KrcdoRoC6-0QAvD_BwE

I did not realize that a set of 24 springs is so expensive ? Over $200 ?

Thanks for any additional info.

 

[Explorer_PL]

But I need the cams in place to use the spring compression tool I think - correct ?

 

[Blackhawkxx]

When I installed this engine, it came from a wreck and had 55k.

If I may ask, what happened to the factory engine?

 

[boominXplorer]

But I need the cams in place to use the spring compression tool I think - correct ?

Yes you need the cams in place to use the tool to pry down on the valve springs to remove the locks.

 

[boominXplorer]

Yes that ford racing kit is the cheapest way to get all 24 lash adjusters and followers

 

[Explorer_PL]

For Blackhawxx:

Why did I pull my engine out twice in a month - long story.

Why I pulled my engine out twice in a month - long story. Ok boys and girls. Get ready for a long reading  Somewhere in January at 199 k miles, my engine developed a nasty knock and valve train noise especially at lower rpm, and when stopped at a red light or in traffic. I went to one shop...

www.explorerforum.com

The old engine is well and resting in my shed ready to be installed if the need arises.

BoominX -

Thanks again.
where do you get the valve springs, what brand ?
For seals I think FelPro will do, what do you think ?

 

[Blackhawkxx]

For Blackhawxx:

Why did I pull my engine out twice in a month - long story.

Why I pulled my engine out twice in a month - long story. Ok boys and girls. Get ready for a long reading  Somewhere in January at 199 k miles, my engine developed a nasty knock and valve train noise especially at lower rpm, and when stopped at a red light or in traffic. I went to one shop...

www.explorerforum.com

The old engine is well and resting in my shed ready to be installed if the need arises.

That was a interesting read. You could open a weekend business of exchanging Explorer engines.

 

[boominXplorer]

Yeah I just use felpro valve seals usually. Valve springs are the same for all 3v motors (4.6, 5.4 and 6.8). I usually get valve springs from Ford, they run like $6 each though.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks B, that's what I needed to know !

Basically Ford parts, and FelPro (or Ford).

PS: Just in case anybody needs, numbers from Tasca Ford:

valve springs ER3Z-6513-B $4.77
valve seals 3L3Z-6571-DA $ 1.49


ROCKER ARM AND LASH ADJ KIT 3V MODULAR M-6529-3V $ 282.99

 

[96eb96]

Thanks B, that's what I needed to know !

Basically Ford parts, and FelPro (or Ford).

PS: Just in case anybody needs, numbers from Tasca Ford:

valve springs ER3Z-6513-B $4.77
valve seals 3L3Z-6571-DA $ 1.49


ROCKER ARM AND LASH ADJ KIT 3V MODULAR M-6529-3V $ 282.99

I've replaced springs on mod motors using the rope trick. Braided nylon rope from lowes, a bit less than the diameter of the cyl hole. Put it in BTC, crank a bit.
Not saying it is the best technique, but I know it works.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Never heard of that
Just googled it, looks interesting, thanks.
If you pack enough rope, the valves have no way to drop, hmmmm........