Do-it-myself fuel pump? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Do-it-myself fuel pump?

well waddya know i'm in the process of replacing my pump and sending unit because of a gas leak and the problem that i've run into is after dropping the tank, and breaking the lines in the process of trying to disconnect the quick-disconnects i can't get one of the ends out :(

and i the lock-ring is so damn rusty i can't get it to break loose.

any suggestions?
 



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For the lock ring I used a wire brush to remove as much crap as I could so I could actually see the ring (it was like digging for burried treasure). After blowing the parts clean I soaked them in PB blaster for an hour to help loosen the rust and help prevent me breaking any tabs during removal. I then used a hammer and block of wood and large screwdriver to walk the ring off. If one tab was really hard to move I would carefully pry it up slightly just to free it up and break any rust bond still having a hold. Once this was done I cleaned off the lock ring flange molded into the tank and treated it with a rust preventer.. I then cleaned and flushed the inside of the tank to be sure no crap was iside to clogg up the new pump and strainer.

What part of of the line broke (The truck's stainless line or the fuel pump sending unit rusted crap)?

I had the fuel line from the sending unit get stuck within the trucks stainless steel line. I didn't want to crush the truck's line so I used a pair of large vice grips set to a slightly smaller diameter than the stainless fitting. I then rested the stainless fitting against the vice grips that were basically functioning as a stop. I then used another pair of pliers to pull the sending unit's rusted line from the stainless fitting (took a bit of effort and some swearing #$%@$$@!).. The rusted line came out with half of the garter spring inside. I then used some needle nose pliers to remove the garter spring (one tab broke off). A few tabs were bent from the pulling and were hammered back into shape (one broke off).. I reinserted the spring completed the job and it was leak free...
 






thanks for that info, good stuff :)


yes i got it apart after soaking the crap outta the lock ring and then slightly bending the tabs and knocking it loose.

then I pulled the spring (metal fingers) out of the quick-disconnect and then pulled the line off, so now i just have to rinse out the tank and i'll pickup a new lock-ring tomorrow and i should have it done by Tuesday night cause i won't have time tomorrow.

thanks again.
 






another thing, would it be wise to put a layer of undercoat on top of the new unit after i get installed in the tank?

or maybe layering it with anti-seize?
 






Ford_Racing_Guy said:
another thing, would it be wise to put a layer of undercoat on top of the new unit after i get installed in the tank?

or maybe layering it with anti-seize?
I would go with the anitsieze.. It is very sticky and greasy and should do an adequate job of keeping moisture away from the cheap zinc plated steel... Undercoating needs a prepp'ed surface (ie sandblasting) for good adhesion.. As such it could make things worse if a tear or hole occured. .. this would allow moisture to get trapped between the undercoating and the steel and rust it it out quicker than if it wastn't undercoated..
 






good point, i'll go with anti-seize then.

thanks a lot.
 






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