Door ajar warning issues

[dlt0028]

The issue is Ive taken to the dealership 3 times because of it. They clean it and send you on your way. I don't know about you, but I don't like taking off work to keep getting this fixed. Losing vacation time and money over a $5 part. After its out of warranty, they want up to $500 to fix it. They know its a problem, but dont fix it right the first time. If its just grinding off some of the button on the sensor, why doesnt the dealership do it? Add the fuel pump, the door latch recall, the brakes squealing because of a design problem (only 15k miles on them), and problems starting when its below 30 degrees, and the battery died before I even left the dealer lot. Just a poorly built designed vehicle that I'm stuck with until Jan 2016.

 

[jeffegg2]

The issue is Ive taken to the dealership 3 times because of it. They clean it and send you on your way. I don't know about you, but I don't like taking off work to keep getting this fixed. Losing vacation time and money over a $5 part. After its out of warranty, they want up to $500 to fix it. They know its a problem, but dont fix it right the first time. If its just grinding off some of the button on the sensor, why doesnt the dealership do it? Add the fuel pump, the door latch recall, the brakes squealing because of a design problem (only 15k miles on them), and problems starting when its below 30 degrees, and the battery died before I even left the dealer lot. Just a poorly built designed vehicle that I'm stuck with until Jan 2016.

I did not take any time off work. I did not send it to the dealership. My Wife wanted me to, but I am working 12/7 and don't have time. So I went online to YouTube and found another user with an easy fix. Lucky that I have mechanical ability to add to my electrical knowledge...

I would assume, they are doing what is written up in the advisory note in their database which is to clean the contacts of the switch which is not the problem. Mine is still working great. What I believe is the problem is the door panel is deforming and the switch is too close to the part it is ment to contact. I gave it some more room and some. I get a door open, but only when the door is open. A sloppy defect common to many fords, but I did an easy fix and I'm happy. thank God for the internet!!! :exp:

 

[bluelinebrotha]

Having this same issue. Seems to be worse on colder/humid days. Guessing it's an electrical issue. Where is the wiring harness in question that needs to be looked at?

 

[gdruss]

My 2014 started doing this last week especially when its cold.

 

[bluelinebrotha]

Mine does it when it's either really cold, or thawing (extreme temperature change either way). It's back now and not going away this time.

I'm planning on takin the door apart to see if there is anything I can do to rememdy this. Will probably buy a new latch/sensor if it's cheap enough.

 

[DIY_tech]

I've read that many Ford owners have paid dealers repeatedly to clean or replace door latches and door ajar switches for costly temporary repairs to stop obnoxious Door Ajar issues. I've read threads on this forum and others suggesting WD-40 and grinding the white switch lever within the door latch assembly, but neither worked for me. I have driven cars for decades without Door Ajar sensors and would prefer to just do away with the headache by disabling it permanently. I've got my driver door panel off now and there are only four wires going into the door latch: solid black (presumably ground), blue with green stripe, gray with brown stripe, and green with maroon stripe. My Explorer does not have keyless remote so I figure those wires serve the power lock actuator and the Door Ajar sensor (switch). Does anyone know if one of the door latch wires could be disconnected (cut) or if two of the wires could be connected (jumpered) to bypass the Door Ajar switch and create the electrical equivalent of a permanently closed door? Thank you in advance if anyone knows the answer.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum DIY_tech.
While there are some reports on the 'Door Ajar' issue, it doesn't appear to be a common problem. It would be very helpful if you added the 'trim' level (Base, XLT, etc) of your Explorer to your profile so it shows in the margin. A couple of members I think have schematic diagrams and I don't know if they are the same for all trims. Thanks and good luck.

Peter

 

[DIY_tech]

Thank you Peter. A schematic would be a big help!

 

[peterk9]

Thank you Peter. A schematic would be a big help!

I sent a msg to both jmr061 and sheltonfilms to see if they can assist.

Peter

 

[sheltonfilms]

I've read that many Ford owners have paid dealers repeatedly to clean or replace door latches and door ajar switches for costly temporary repairs to stop obnoxious Door Ajar issues. I've read threads on this forum and others suggesting WD-40 and grinding the white switch lever within the door latch assembly, but neither worked for me. I have driven cars for decades without Door Ajar sensors and would prefer to just do away with the headache by disabling it permanently. I've got my driver door panel off now and there are only four wires going into the door latch: solid black (presumably ground), blue with green stripe, gray with brown stripe, and green with maroon stripe. My Explorer does not have keyless remote so I figure those wires serve the power lock actuator and the Door Ajar sensor (switch). Does anyone know if one of the door latch wires could be disconnected (cut) or if two of the wires could be connected (jumpered) to bypass the Door Ajar switch and create the electrical equivalent of a permanently closed door? Thank you in advance if anyone knows the answer.

Got the right connector. You need to jump the Green wire with the maroon stripe to the black wire (maroon stripe is actually suppose to be brown). The switch shorts or closes when door is closed.

Blue/Green and Gray/Brown are for the actuator.

Look at page 3 on this pdf (bottom left part of page).

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=875006http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=875006


It's also worth nothing that this will only work if your switch is the issue. If there is a spread terminal or other type of intermittent contact in the door to body connector or even the Body control unit connector this jumping of wires will not help.

 

[DIY_tech]

Success! Using sheltonfilms comments and linked drawing as guides, I jumped pins 5 and 6 of connector C525 where it connects to the door latch to bypass the left front door ajar microswitch. The door ajar chime stopped, the dash warning light went out and the dome light no longer stays on. Thank you very much peterK9 and sheltonfilms!

 

[peterk9]

Success! Using sheltonfilms comments and linked drawing as guides, I jumped pins 5 and 6 of connector C525 where it connects to the door latch to bypass the left front door ajar microswitch. The door ajar chime stopped, the dash warning light went out and the dome light no longer stays on. Thank you very much peterK9 and sheltonfilms!

Glad to hear it worked for you. Members helping members.

Peter

 

[JeremyS]

I also posted on the ForScan website in hopes that someone would be able to help.

My wife called me this morning and let me know that the Driver Door Ajar warning was staying on, along with the chime. I figure it is either the sensor itself at fault, or a broken wire between the door and the body (in the rubber boot).

But I am searching for a way to just disable the door chime in the meantime. I found some ppl that had this working (through ForScan) on F150 and Fusion. But others who tried the same module and hex on other makes had problems, even to the point they had to tow to the dealer. All of the horror stories involved push button start, which I do not have, but I am still scared to try until I know it will work.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Jeremy.
Your thread was merged with this one found using the Forum's 'Search' feature (upper right).
I think you may want to change your vehicle to a Sport from a Sort.

Peter

 

[JeremyS]

Welcome to the Forum Jeremy.
Your thread was merged with this one found using the Forum's 'Search' feature (upper right).
I think you may want to change your vehicle to a Sport from a Sort.

Peter

Thanks Peter... I "fat-fingered" it when doing my profile on my phone... I did search, and read this thread before posting. I figured since my question was geared towards Forscan and this thread wasnt, I would make a new post. Either way, hopefully I will get it resolved. I will try some of the suggestions in this post tomorrow when I don't have to hold a light with my teeth.

 

[peterk9]

There are some links to Forscan spreadsheets in this thread; New Forscan Update Allows Module Programming

Peter