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DPFE part numbers and more

Sir Robin

Active Member
Joined
November 3, 1999
Messages
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City, State
NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XLT
94 XLT 4X4 211000 miles.

Had a Check Engine light. Intermittent. Codes in Continuous Memory were 332 (Insufficient EGR flow/EGR valve opening not detected) and 337 (PFE/DPFE sensor circuit voltage above Self-Test maximum/). KOEO and KOER were both 111 (System Pass) because the CE light was not coming on at the time I was scanning for codes.

The fix in the end was to replace the DPFE sensor and the smaller diameter vacuum line connected to it. (The line had a crack in it, but the CE light still came on after replacing only the hose.)

I had suspected that my EGR valve itself was still good because with the engine off and a small tube connected between it and my mouth, I could feel and hear movement of the diaphragm, and it felt like it was reasonably holding vacuum.

Now for some tips: "DPFE" and "EGR valve position sensor" may not be technically and exactly the same thing, but practically speaking, a lot of times the terms are used interchangeably, or similar terms. My DPFE was described in the computers of Advance Auto and AutoZone as "EGR valve pressure sensor".
It is sometimes categorized or classified as a "sensor", if you can't look it up under "emissions".

For some insight into the differences between DPFEs,PFEs and EVPs, go to http://www.tomco-inc.com , then click on Emissions Catalog.
The number cast into the part housing was F1AE-9J460-AA, but it wouldn't come up when cross-referencing unless I used F1AZ-9J460-A. The "Z" signifies "service part" and is more commonly found in cross-references. Matter of fact, I found a picture on the website of a guy with a Taurus SHO of the DPFE and its Ford box - one number was on the box label, the other number was cast into the part. (google this for more info about Ford part numbering).

Based on my make, model no, and part description, Advance Auto (and their web counterpart, partsamerica.com) brought up the wrong part. Mine was aluminum, theirs was black plastic and the connector was different. So you can't always trust "the computer". (Not even at a dealer - check out this link and the QandA about a 97 Explorer.) They just hold the info that a human programmed into it (sometimes incorrectly). I didn't get the right part until I realized I had to cross-reference the part no. with the Z. (This doesn't necessarily mean that you can stick a Z in the fourth digit and get results.)
Advance Auto was out of it (it would have been GP Sorensen 779-11002),
but AutoZone had it (Wells SU243).

So to summarize the part numbers:
Ford F1AE-9J460-AA = Ford F1AZ-9J460-A = GP Sorensen 779-11002 = Wells SU243. Also try Echlin CRB219108, and Niehoff FE5001. Bottom line - it has to look the same. Even then, the numbers better cross-reference correctly, because there might be different electrical characteristics for the same type of part meant for installation in different car models.

A tip about the issue of EGR valves having holes that some people try to cover up or plug up - check out this link and the QandA about it.

Lastly, I found model and year-specific OBD codes at http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/l/bl_dtcs_main.htm . Its just a little more specific than the code book included with your reader.
 






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