Driver door does not shut without slamming

[All out]

my truck just turned 200k so the drivers door might have been open and closed a few times. Any thoughts on what needs to replace all other doors close just with normal pressure but of course doing the same with driver door it won't shut all the way and you have to reopen it then slam it any ideas what to adjust or what to replace. Thanks in advance.

 

[CDW6212R]

Look at the door striker, the bushing, in the door jamb. You've surely worn out either the bushing, or even the door latch or hinges. If things match well, hinges not worn(door doesn't droop(jump up as it hits the striker)), then just lubricate the door latch well, and buy a new striker bushing.

BTW, the only replacement for the stroker bushing, is either OEM Ford, or Dorman, and that's for the entire striker. You cannot buy just the bushings. Parts stores sell you(lie) bushings, but they do not fit properly. They are the wrong size(too large).

 

[All out]

What site do you use to order parts like that

 

[swshawaii]

Tried the NAPA strikers made by Dorman, and the round metal base and plastic bushing was bending before the 30 ft/lb. torque spec. Ford OE part is MUCH stronger than the aftermarket Dorman 38445. Requires Torx T-50 socket. CONFIRM fitment prior to ordering.

$17.64 Price Includes TWO Strikers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/191694660984

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree that the Ford striker is a better quality, their bushings are tougher. The parts stores all carry the Dorman striker, about $12 I think, Rock Auto has them for under $7 each.

That's a good deal for the OEM strikers, one used to be $12, now it's much more. So $17.64 for two is a great price.

 

[swshawaii]

Don, I'm still using the metal sleeves I made from Moog K7275 end links for bushings. They're doing a GREAT job!

 

[CDW6212R]

Those will work for sure, forever, but they latch jaws will be the weakest link then.


BTW, I had a rough time getting hatch bushings to survive in my 98 Limited. I installed two new ones in the left/right side, and then had the right side crack within two weeks. I had two of those universal kits to start with, one from NAPA. I ended up breaking three on the right side, the last one did it within two days. I have adjusted the strikers slightly each time, the hatch is trickier to line up. Having run out of spare parts, I went to my 98 Mercury with original strikers in it, and swiped the right one. That one has survived for about five weeks now, and looks okay so far. My Mercury hatch has always shut beautifully, which makes me spoiled on how I think it should feel. This 98 Explorer hatch needs to be shut firmly to engage both sides properly, and I've adjusted the strikers many times. I know the right hinge is tweaked a bit, from some antenna being on the roof at the top of the opening. I have new hinges to install some day.

 

[koda2000]

my truck just turned 200k so the drivers door might have been open and closed a few times. Any thoughts on what needs to replace all other doors close just with normal pressure but of course doing the same with driver door it won't shut all the way and you have to reopen it then slam it any ideas what to adjust or what to replace. Thanks in advance.

On the ST one thing that can effect how the doors close are the body mount bushings. The ones under the cab are made with some funky foam material that tends to disintegrate. By 200K they're probably completely gone if you haven't already replaced them. I replaced mine with Prothane bushings. They made a huge difference to the way the doors closed and the way the truck rides.

If you haven't figured it out yet, anything made by Dorman is junk. I made my owe replacement door latch bushings out of PEX tubing. They're working great so far.

 

[All out]

Haven't done the body mounts which ones should I order I have done a lot and I'm sure much more to go but great truck.

 

[koda2000]

Haven't done the body mounts which ones should I order I have done a lot and I'm sure much more to go but great truck.

These are what I used. Very happy with them. They're also available in black (if you care).

https://www.amazon.com/Prothane-6-1...words=explorer+sport+trac+body+mount+bushings

 

[All out]

Awesome thank you for the help

 

[boominXplorer]

I also vote body bushings

 

[koda2000]

Awesome thank you for the help

The body mount bushings (starting from the radiator core support) and labeled "A" "B" "C" and "D". I found my "B's" and "C's" bushings were completely trashed. My "A's" were still pretty good and my "D's" were like new, so I replaced A-C and left the D's alone. I can give you installation tips, but there are write ups on the forum if you search. It's not the easiest job, but's it's straight forward.

 

[koda2000]

Awesome thank you for the help

The body mount bushings (starting from the radiator core support) are labeled "A" "B" "C" and "D". I found my "B's" and "C's" bushings were completely trashed. My "A's" were still pretty good and my "D's" were like new, so I replaced A-C and left the D's alone (the "D's" are tricky to replace anyway). I can give you installation tips, but there are write ups on the forum if you search. It's not the easiest job, but's it's straight forward.

As far as making my own new door striker bushings, I bought a 6' length of 1/2 ID PEX at Home Depot for under $2, used a pipe cutter to score the PEX at the length needed and finished the cut with a hacksaw. The OD on the PEX is a bit to large, so I installed the bushing on a striker bolt, chucked it in my drill and turned the OD down to the desired diameter using a rasp and a fine file to finish it off. They work perfectly and are probably more durable than OE. Only negative is the color, LOL. Red, blue or white.

 

[All out]

Body mount bushing being ordered today

 

[swshawaii]

Did you physically inspect them? In case you haven't seen it, here's the most complete body mount thread found in the 2001-05 ST sticky's. GL

Body Mount Bushings | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

Some pics if missing:
https://www.google.com/search?q=exp...ved=0ahUKEwj6w9PtsIzXAhVDzFQKHTI_Dj4Q_AUICygC

 

[koda2000]

Excellent links Steve. Pretty much shows the complete job (with the exception of fighting the parking brake cable on the driver's side "B" mount). I found I was able to force my cable out of the way just enough to get the mount out/in by removing the retaining bolt on the bottom of the fire wall and using my hammer handle as a lever.

 

[xeltul]

Try lifting up on the door a little as you close it. If it closes normally with a little up ward pressure then it is probably the door hinges. I had that problem and replaced the door hinges and now it closes perfect every time.

 

[harvick]

my truck just turned 200k so the drivers door might have been open and closed a few times. Any thoughts on what needs to replace all other doors close just with normal pressure but of course doing the same with driver door it won't shut all the way and you have to reopen it then slam it any ideas what to adjust or what to replace. Thanks in advance.

MINE WAS DOING THE SAME THING, I FOUND THAT THE PIN WHERE THE DOOR LOCKS TOO WAS LOOSE , I tightened it and it works perfect now without me slamming door