Driver Door Electrical Problems, Door Ajar Light

[froglady99]

I have a 2003 Explorer XLT. For a long time, the door ajar light has always been on. In the past, I've had trouble with the driver door power window (so I rarely roll it down), but recently I often can't get any of the power windows to roll down. The control that adjusts the side mirrors hasn't worked at all in a long time. I know the door ajar problem is in the driver door, and I strongly suspect that all the other problems are in that door too.

I opened the driver door panel, just to see what's what, and none of the wires looked broken or anything. What's the best way to figure out where the problem is so I can fix it?

 

[fordysenior]

The common problem with these vehicles is inside the wiring harness between the front door and it's hinge pillar. I have not had the problem, but have read about it on here. Apparently, you have to remove the door speaker and pull the wiring sleeve into the door assembly and check for broken wires. Just a suggestion.

 

[DFOFF]

Yeah it's a common issue. Search "door ajar" and you will find several threads about it. I think if you go to you tube, you can find a few videos on it as well. I had to do mine, total of four wires broken in mine. Just takes a little time and patience. I didn't have the door ajar issue but I had windows that didn't work and it fixed my keyless entry pad. If you can splice wires you can fix it. Best of luck.

 

[froglady99]

Thanks for the suggestions, both of you. I was wondering if there might be something other than the individual wiring harnesses that was the problem, since there are so many different issues within that door. It's interesting that you mention the keyless entry pad, because that's the only thing on the driver door that consistently works! Anyway, I'll look up some more information about that wiring harness and check mine to see if that's the problem. Thanks again!

 

[froglady99]

Hi, just thought I'd give you an update. I found a great video on Youtube that showed what I needed to do, then bought some crimp/heat shrink connectors in different sizes, since I didn't know what all I'd need. Today I opened everything up and checked the wiring running from the door to the body of the car. I found four wires completely broken, two or three more partly broken, and several more with cracked insulation. I just put electrical tape on the ones with cracked insulation and spliced all the broken ones. Now everything works! I'm so glad I decided to do it myself instead of taking it to a shop. All it cost was $10.78 for the splice connectors and an afternoon of work. Thanks again for your advice!