I had to do this job on a 2000 Mountaineer. It took about 2.5 hours because you need to punch the center pin out of all the rivets and drill out the rivets that hold the regulator to the door and the window to the regulator.
I replace the rivets with short 1/4"x20 bolts and nyloc nuts. Worked perfectly afterwards.
Be careful when working inside the door. There are sharp edges everywhere that will easily cut your hands and arms. I bought a regulator with a motor attached to make the job a bit easier, but my motor was good so I saved it. The OE Ford window motors are very good, other than when the pucks between the motor and gear wear out (and they're replaceable).
It's been too many years ago to remember exactly how I did this job, but other than drilling out all rivets the most important thing was to tape the glass up out of the way. I used Gorilla brand duct tape for this. You don't want to have the glass fall on you while you're replacing the regulator.
Tip: The reason that the Explorer/Mountaineer windows develop problems (which can lead to bend regulator arms and the glass becoming pulled out of its mount) is because of a lack of lubrication in the fuzzy window channels. I find that using a good silicon (I like Liquid Wrench foaming silicon spray) in the window channels maybe once a year makes your windows work like new.
Edit: Here's what I recall about the job... '01 Sport Trac front doors are identical to the Gen II 4-door Explorers.
1. Remove the two screws from above the interior door handle
2. Remove the snap-in trim piece from around the interior door handle
3. Pop the push-in retaining clips from the perimeter of the interior door panel. My '01 ST also had screws at the bottom of the interior door panel.
4. Lift the interior panel to release the window seal and the molded plastic hook near the mirror
5. Once the interior panel is free of the door, unplug the master window switch and mirror adjustment switch (on some models the armrest w/master window switch can remain while the panel is removed. IDK if this is true with the '01 ST.
6. Carefully remove the plastic door weather shield, which you will need to reinstall when your done. To remove the shield completely you will need to also remove the door speaker and mount, which will be helpful when removing the window regulator.
7. Unplug the 2-wire window motor connector from the window switch wires at the bottom of the door.
8. You will find that there are strategically placed holes in the door's sheet metal that will align with the rivets you need to remove, though it may be difficult to get your window where you need it to be to take advantage of the holes. They are near the top of the door.
9. As my regulator arms were badly bent and inoperative, I believe I drilled out the rivets for the regulator first and then was able to get the window where I needed it to be to get at the remaining two rivets that secure the glass to the regulator. Remember that you need to secure the glass in the up position for safety purposes. I used 2 or 3 pieces of Gorilla tape over the top of the door frame and attached to the glass.
10. The regulator once collapsed will just fit for it to come out of the larger hole in the lower part of the door. You'll have to play with it a bit. I don't recall if I removed my window motor from the regulator before hand. The are 3 small bolts that attach the motor to the regulator. Be careful, some regulators have spring which helps support the weight of the glass and when the motor is unbolted the spring will whip the motor around and it can hurt you (badly). I don't recall if Ford's use this spring. I don't recall it having one, but if I found that it did I knew to be careful of it from previous experience.
After using a punch to knock the steel center pins out of aluminum rivets I used a sharp 5/8" drill bit to take the heads of the rivets. This worked great. though I guess a 1/2" drill bit may work if its all you have to work with.
