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Driver Window - GEM/1-Touch Issue - Bypass Wiring?

Evan6ardner

Active Member
Joined
August 17, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Austin, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01 Sport Trac 2WD
My driver window will go down but not up. Upon pressing up, there will be a quick clicking noise behind the dash...I think near the radio.

I was wondering if anyone knew which wire to connect from the wiring connectors that go to the driverside switch unit to the driverside motor? I was able to reverse the polarity down at the motor and get it to go back up (by pressing down), but I'd like to fix it and just bypass the 1 touch.

This person did it in a Taurus.
http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14514
 



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My driver window will go down but not up. Upon pressing up, there will be a quick clicking noise behind the dash...I think near the radio.

I was wondering if anyone knew which wire to connect from the wiring connectors that go to the driverside switch unit to the driverside motor? I was able to reverse the polarity down at the motor and get it to go back up (by pressing down), but I'd like to fix it and just bypass the 1 touch.

This person did it in a Taurus.
http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14514

The front windows are a little tricky because both of them use a tan/blu wire and there's no way to test while knowing which tan/blu wire goes to the auto down relay. At the master switch, the driver's window is tan/blu = DOWN and blk/wht = UP. I tested mine using my home-made Power Probe (battery charger). The GEM module is located near the radio. I don't know where the auto down relay is, but it might be over the gas pedal. Your issue sounds like the auto down relay. Mine turned out to be my master window switch.

My driver's window was the only one that worked properly. During my testing, I found that when I ran 12V to the driver's side tan/blu wire and ground to the wht/blk wire I got spark, but when I ran 12V to the passenger tan/blu wire and ground to the wht/yel wire it went DOWN (reverse the polarity to go UP). Although I got a spark, no fuses blew.
 






Sent info to your gmail account.
 






Hrm....welp...was able to splice tan/blue pin 7 and try to connect directly to one of the wires at the motor connector.

Unfortunately that did not work. It's hard for me to tell what is going on. The clicking is behind the dash. The wiring also seems to indicate blue/tan is actually the down button. Sigh...
 






Hrm....welp...was able to splice tan/blue pin 7 and try to connect directly to one of the wires at the motor connector.

Unfortunately that did not work. It's hard for me to tell what is going on. The clicking is behind the dash. The wiring also seems to indicate blue/tan is actually the down button. Sigh...

Tan/blu is the DOWN wire, but don't forget that you have to supply power and ground to a window motor to make it work. For example: power to tan/blu and ground to wht/yel to make the passenger front window go down. Power to wht/yel and ground to tan/blue to make the front passenger window go up. The master window switch has all the window motors wired through it and can switch power and ground as required.
 






Tan/blu is the DOWN wire, but don't forget that you have to supply power and ground to a window motor to make it work. For example: power to tan/blu and ground to wht/yel to make the passenger front window go down. Power to wht/yel and ground to tan/blue to make the front passenger window go up. The master window switch has all the window motors wired through it and can switch power and ground as required.


Hrm...now I'm confused as to which the GEM is responsible for... The Taurus story was the same as mine, and the wire that was used was tan-blue. I was able to originally get the window back up by reversing the connection at the motor and pressed down to make it go back up.
 






I still think your problem is your auto-down relay. Relays click and you're hearing a clicking, but the relay isn't transferring power to your driver's side front window. Here are all the wires at your master window switch:

Left Front
tan/lt blue = dn
wht/blk = up

Right Front
Tan/lt blu = dn
wht/yel = up

Left Rear
gry/org = dn
yel/lt blu = up

Right Rear
red/blk = dn
yel/blk = up

Blu/blk = 12V power, key ON
blk = ground
red/lt blu = 12V key ON for switch lights

Tip: When testing, unplug your master switch and apply power and ground directly to the appropriate wire set via the plug. I also suggest you stick with your specific year/make/model when trying to find electrical problems.

BTW, As the driver's front window's tan/blue wire goes to the auto-down relay (and not the window motor directly), it is not just a simple matter of bypassing the relay to get the window to go down.
 






The window goes down just fine. It will not go up. There is a constant clicking right behind my radio unit. I thought the one-touch relay was C2051 is located under the hood in the fuse box.
 






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