Driver's front sag. Torsion or shock?

[Arkie71]

Got a 1996 XLT AWD w/tow pkg. The front driver's side sits a bit lower than the rest. How can I know if the shock is the problem? If it isn't the shock should I adjust the torsion bars and then have it aligned? I plan on putting shackles someday in the future and wanted to TT the front a "1.5 or maybe a little less afterwards. How do I know where the torsion bars stand in relation to the standard height that one uses in figuring the recommended maximum of 2". For all I know some one has already messed with them in the past besides the fact that I might be adjusting them to level it out presently. I hope I am making sense. One could in theory be over doing them since they were not at factory height to begin with. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Flash]

Shocks don't hold the car up unless they're air shocks or coilover.

Adjust the torsion bar and check the alignment.

 

[SWIGIN]

Shocks don't hold the car up unless they're air shocks or coilover.

Adjust the torsion bar and check the alignment.

This is very true and I'll take it further. If the shocks are not designed to hold the weight of the vehicle then coil overs and air shocks are not the greatest way
to level a vehicle.

The mounts are not designed to hold the weight.

 

[corkey]

no,, the mounts must be modified to use coilovers or air shocks,,,

measure the distance from, a point on the frame before you start and keep track as you tighten the torsion bar bolts,, and always jack up the rig before adjusting the bolts,, it makes it way easier to do,,
after adjustment , let it down off the jack, bounce the front to make sure it sets the height it wants to stay at,,

 

[J_C]

It doesn't necessarily matter if someone adjusted the front previously.

The vehicle was level from the factory, so assuming no current mods to the rear, no leaf swap or add a leaf or coilovers, etc. the rear would only be same height or lower than original.

Measure rear height, add 1.5" for the lift you're doing, then adjust the front to get it level with the new/adjusted +1.5" rear height, which would leave the front at most 1.5" higher than stock, BUT if the rear is sagging 1" then gets 1.5" lift, it's only 0.5" to be changed in front, over stock, to make it level.

If your tire(s) aren't wearing unevenly then I'd just wait to raise front + alignment right after you do the rear lift so you have the realized rear height to compare to instead of an approximation.

 

[Arkie71]

Just measured all four from the ground to the outside fender well lip, centered on the tire. Driver's front (df) 32 1/4" , d-rear 31 1/4" , p-front 33 1/4" , p-rear 32 1/2". It seems to sag about an inch in the rear on both sides compared to the front with an inch or so difference between the driver and passngr side on both ends. Shackles will have to wait for some time but I thought I would go ahead and level out the front since I was going to get it aligned anyway because my niece was told it needed an alignment before I bought it. So I guess I will try to raise the driver's side an inch with a torsion adjustment. Or should I lower the passenger side since it seems higher than any other point of the four? When I get ready to do shackles how will I level the rear? Is there a way I can level but not raise it now by spending next to nothing or nothing? No explorer funds available right now so I am trying to do what I can to make improvements here and there. Any more input would be appreciated. Also noted that something has happened to the front bumper as it looks a little turned up on the passenger side. Like some one was backing up and it caught the corner on something and it pulled it a bit and the fog light on that side isn't mounted and is loose. No other damage that is noticeable though.

 

[swshawaii]

Keep in mind adjusting the front will affect the opposite rear corner. LF up = RR down. Trial and error, one inch in front may not be the same height change in the rear. Also, camber kits may be needed for correct alignment after adjusting.

 

[J_C]

So I guess I will try to raise the driver's side an inch with a torsion adjustment. Or should I lower the passenger side since it seems higher than any other point of the four? When I get ready to do shackles how will I level the rear? Is there a way I can level but not raise it now by spending next to nothing or nothing?

Left side is heavier due to battery + driver + gas tank. For as close as it gets to next to nothing you can swap the rear leaves left side to right and vice versa to get them closer to each other but still lower than the front, but that seems like a great time to do the shackles too.

I would not lower the passenger front at all till after you swap the leaf springs IF you do that. Also move the vehicle around and remeasure as things like an uneven driveway can change measurements a bit.

 

[Flash]

This is very true and I'll take it further. If the shocks are not designed to hold the weight of the vehicle then coil overs and air shocks are not the greatest way
to level a vehicle.

The mounts are not designed to hold the weight.

Yet when air shocks are fitted OEM they don't strengthen the shock mounts.

 

[J_C]

I'm happy with my coilover rear shocks. I needed shocks anyway and besides the slight burden of using a jack to raise them up into place vs a normal shock install, it couldn't have been easier to raise my sagging rear end and they were only what, maybe $20 more expensive than shocks w/o coilovers on them.

The passenger rear may sit a little bit higher than the driver's side rear still but shouldn't it since there's still more weight on that side? They're a lot closer to matching now and both sit less than 1" higher than the front, which I expect to equal out as time goes by as it was initially a little bigger difference than that.

It rides a bit stiffer but that actually reminds me of how it drove when newer... better with a load. If my mounts ever break I'll let you guys know.

Besides, considering all the liability lawsuits these days, I doubt Monroe and Gabriel would make them if the mounts couldn't handle the spring rate they chose. You know they had to test that... but of course all bets are off if the metal is rusted away.