Drivers Side Door Lock Not Working Properly

[sall]

Alright guys, I'm new here and I own a 1998 Mercury Mountainer 4WD 5.0. I am having a problem with the power door lock on the drivers side.

About a week ago the power lock quit functioning correctly. When I would go to use the key fob I had to push it sometimes 5-6 times to get the drivers side door lock to pop open. So, I figure the door lock actuator needs lubed up or it is going bad.

I start my diagnosis by pulling the door trim off and pulling back the other insulation so I can see what is going on inside. Alright no problems there just as easy as pulling trim off any vehicle if you have the right tools.

I cycle the door locks with the door open. Everything works fine on the first try. Door Locks. Door unlocks correctly. I then close the door. Door locks correctly. I then try to unlock. Door will not unlock when door is closed until i cycle the locks several times and it will finally pop up.

Out of curiosity I decide to clean out all the old grease in the door lock part that hits the striker to lock the door. I blast it with some brakleen and apply new grease. I also decide to pull the rubber up off the actuator and give it a good spray with silicone lubricant. Still the same results. Door lock works perfect with door open. Does not work correctly with door closed.

I am at this point thinking that the actuator is not functioning properly and is on its last leg. Not providing enough umph for lack of better words to pop the lock when the door is closed.

I purchase a door lock actuator from local auto parts store. Takes an easy 20 minutes to replace the actuator. Just to note you do not have to drill out the rivet to replace the actuator. You can just pop it out of the bracket that holds it in and pop the new in place. Of course after removing the window guide.

So, I reconnect the negative battery terminal and cross my fingers that everything works properly. I test with door open first. Everything works fine. Cycle locks several times same result working fine with door open. I then shut the door and cycle locks. Locks fine. Go to unlock and same result as old actuator. I have to push unlock several times for it to pop open.

I then take a break because I am pretty irrate at that moment. Come back out a few minutes later and try again. Same result. I decide I will try opening the door from the outside instead of sitting inside and cycling the locks.

Okay, door is shut and unlocked. I proceed to lock the doors and try to unlock it. Bam! Opens right up. Try it a few times working properly I scratch my head. I then sit inside again and try it out. Working just fine. I then open the door from the inside and then close it. Cycle locks again. Once again the door does not unlock. I realize what I am doing different. Pulling the handle to open the door. So, I wiggle the inside handle and sure enough the door locks pops open after I push the unlock button.

Right now I am thinking that my issue is somewhere with the inside door handle and the rod. The other option is that the door lock part that hits the striker is not functioning correctly.

What do you guys think? Should I replace the rod that runs from the inside door handle? Or replace the locking mechanism that hits the striker to lock the door? Any help greatly appreciated as this is bugging me and not doing my other door lock actuators any good by constantly cycling the locks to get the driver side to pop open. Thanks in advance!

 

[nssj2]

you can adjust that rod, and i bet that will help. unpop that white clip on the vertical rod, and then you can adjust where the threads sit in that clip. its unlikely, but possible that the exterior handle got messed up at some point. one more thought, if the latch is out of adjustment against the striker, it could be binding while the door is shut. check to make sure it latches closed about the same as the other doors.

 

[Lacky01]

look at the whole door lock assembly and check that there are no springs half-way attached, or laying at the bottom of the door. I cant think of anything else it could be short of the whole thing isnt set in there correctly. I dunno? I'm kinda just taking a shot in the dark.

make sure you do a thorough search of the forums, this topics been beat to death!

 

[sall]

nssj

you can adjust that rod, and i bet that will help. unpop that white clip on the vertical rod, and then you can adjust where the threads sit in that clip. its unlikely, but possible that the exterior handle got messed up at some point. one more thought, if the latch is out of adjustment against the striker, it could be binding while the door is shut. check to make sure it latches closed about the same as the other doors.

I will take a look at what you have suggested tomorrow and get back with a response on whether or not it worked. Finally a nice day to get down to business

lacky01

look at the whole door lock assembly and check that there are no springs half-way attached, or laying at the bottom of the door.

There are no springs half-way attatched or laying at the bottom of the door. I would have noticed that when removing the door panel and wiping off the brakleen that ran to the bottom of the door. Besides if that was the case the door would never unlock, I'm pretty sure!

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I will have a response tomorrow after I thoroughly look things over!

 

[budwich]

as indicated, your problem is likely a spring issue... lots of posts. Take a look at a properly operating door to compare the operation.

 

[sall]

Will do thanks guys!

 

[Lacky01]

you can adjust that rod, and i bet that will help. unpop that white clip on the vertical rod, and then you can adjust where the threads sit in that clip. its unlikely, but possible that the exterior handle got messed up at some point. one more thought, if the latch is out of adjustment against the striker, it could be binding while the door is shut. check to make sure it latches closed about the same as the other doors.

thats a great idea! my drivers door is doing the same thing, that may just help, thanks!

 

[sall]

Turned out a spring was broken and unrepairable in the lock mechanism that hits the striker. Returned the actuator. Replaced the door lock mechanism that hits the striker when you close the door. Took less than 30 minutes. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Kalifowneeah]

me too...

My 2000 XLT has the exact same symptoms you mention Sall. Thanks for sharing. That problem is frustrating, and now I"m gonna fix that sucka.

By the way, I find many mentions of this same problem (Driver Door lock not working/sticking in lock position) in consumer on-line reviews of the Explorer.

Thanks again!

Update: Fixed! See pics...4th page....
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165081

 

[orion1998_1]

what is the lock part number/ best price on it?

 

[fonz0]

This is my first post on this site. I have a 2001 Mountaineer, and was having similar issues. It started with the passenger door not locking, but would unlock when I hit the electronic lock button. It was annoying but i was to lazy to deal with it. Recently the driver door started to do the same thing, so finally I investigated with the help of this forum. What I found was that the door lock actuator and bracket that holds the actuator had broken free from the door. The bracket was still on the actuator and both were floating free. It appears that they used to be held on by either a rivet or some sort of plastic clip. There was an empty hole in the door were it used to sit. Holding the actuator in place, with the broken rivet sticking through the hole seemed to make it work. So I took the bracket off the actuator, and drilled out the old rivet. I then used just a regular bolt and hex nut to reattach the bracket to the door. Then the most difficult part was getting the actuator back into the bracket without breaking anything. Now all the locks work just fine, and I doubt it will be breaking off the door anytime soon. I read a lot of posts that said their hands were to big to do this job. My hands are pretty darn big, and yes it was a pain in the butt, but if I can get in there you should be able to as well!

 

[ghosttrain2]

Can also be repaired by installing a new spring, and drilling 2 holes- I've posted this before-
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo150/ghosttrain2/explorer/100_1419.jpg
This is what was broken-
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo150/ghosttrain2/explorer/100_1413.jpg
you should be able to find a suitable spring at a good hardware store.

 

[Toucan]

Hi Guys, need some help here... Been trying to find door striker bushings for my 1998 Explorer. These are for the four side doors not the back door. But, I cannot seem to find any. Are these available and if can you help/direct to place that sells them.
Cheers buddies!

 

[swshawaii]

Hi Guys, need some help here... Been trying to find door striker bushings for my 1998 Explorer. These are for the four side doors not the back door. But, I cannot seem to find any. Are these available and if can you help/direct to place that sells them.
Cheers buddies!

Do NOT buy the Dorman #38424 tailgate bushing replacement kit, they are the wrong size.
Many have resorted to changing the #38445 entire striker or making their own bushings.
Trace the outline on the door before removing. Requires a Torx T45 or T50 hex socket. GL

 

[Toucan]

Do NOT buy the Dorman/HELP 38424 tailgate bushing replacement kit, they are the wrong size.
Many have resorted to changing the whole striker (38445) or making their own bushings.
Trace the outline on the door before removing. Requires a Torx T45 or T50 hex socket. GL

Yes I found that out over the weekend. Ordered two packs and they are only for tailgate. Tried 1/2 inch hot water pipe but still too big. So, I ended up winding duct tape on them until I can locate the real stuff. Not available at junk yards either.

Agree will have to replace the whole unit.

 

[Toucan]

Just checked at Amazon and it says that this model is not for the 1998 Explorer. Perhaps the bushing might fit???

 

[swshawaii]

Amazon has great pricing and shipping but I never use their fitment guides.
Dorman only has two striker sizes, M10 and 7/16". Don't know if you have
any auto parts stores in Belize to sample and compare them. Maybe NAPA?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363250

If you want to fabricate your own bushings, will require heat.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2157297&postcount=632
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2135854&postcount=9

 

[koda2000]

this is a very common problem with the driver's door handle. you need the "floppy exterior door handle fix". costs about a $1 to fix (or less). i just did mine last week. now works (and feels) like new. lots of posts on this subject.

Sticky: door latch problem solved - temporarily maybe??

 

[Toucan]

Amazon has great pricing and shipping but I never use their fitment guides.
Dorman only has two striker sizes, M10 and 7/16". Don't know if you have
any auto parts stores in Belize to sample and compare them. Maybe NAPA?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363250

If you want to fabricate your own bushings, will require heat.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2157297&postcount=632
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2135854&postcount=9

My thoughts for today are 1. Try NAPA first thing in the morning (today is a holiday) to see what "hard/flexible" hose or tubes they have. and 2. There is a store that specializes in various types of tubing. As the saying goes - where there is a will, there is a way. I do keep in touch with junk yards to alert me when a Ford vehicle "crashes" in.

Other auto parts stores including Ford's are totally useless.