EEC Information Connector for Code Reader/Voltmeter...need help quick! | Ford Explorer Forums

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EEC Information Connector for Code Reader/Voltmeter...need help quick!

Triton46

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 11, 2000
Messages
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City, State
Greensboro, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer Sport
Hey all,

I found the EEC behind the fuse panel in the engine compartment on the passenger side, but where is the information input to connect a code reader/voltmeter?

Haynes shows a connector (maybe on driver side, weird picture) with no wires going in, however the EEC on the passenger side has wires in almost every hole. I need to check this soon. Thanks!
 



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Hey Triton,
The connector your looking at should say EEC on top. You should see two connectors. A smaal two wire connector and a larger one. Pull the connector out of the protective sleeve. After removing the sleeve you should see all the slots for the connector.
 






OK, found the EEC and the input connector. Tell me if Im right here...

Take cover off of input (one strand of wires off the EEC) and put jumper in. Go to receptor #2 (already has wire and goop inside) on the EEC and put the other end of the jumper in. Attach voltometer in same fashion one to battery other to EEC return receptor, turn key to on and count needle jumps...correct?

I hooked up the jumpers, but my 91 is too old to flash the CHECK ENGINE.
 






Hmm sounds right to me.
 






OK, last question before I dive into the engine...

What do I set the voltmeter on for this reading (once again Haynes is vague here)...

DCV, DCA, ACV or OHM?

10, 250, 500 ?
 






DC Voltage. the voltage on the vehicle is 12 volts so you need to set the range in that area.
 






Thanks! Ill post my findings tonight.
 






OK, I retrieved the codes but am a little more confused than I already was. The first set of codes were as follows:

67(Neutral drive switch circuit open)
57(unknown)
67
57

I looked through the book and there is no code for 57. I checked three times and the code is definately 57.
For the continuous memories codes I was a little mystified. The Haynes manual says I should have an 11 or 111 as a seperator code, however my seperator code is a 1.
Codes are as follows:

41(No Heated Oxygen Sensor switch detected, right side)
96(Fuel pump circuit open, Battery to PCM)
41
96

What do those mean? I know I have an Oxygen sensor and the fuel pump has ran fine. Can someone assist?

[Edited by Triton46 on 09-05-2000 at 04:37 PM]
 






I haven't dove into the diagnostic procedure on the older EEC-IV system, but I would test the right oxygen sensor. Does your Haynes give instruction on testing the sensor? I can write them from Chilton's if you need them.

I don't know what to make of the fuel pump circuit open code. You say that is from the continuous memory. Has the engine stalled recently, either on its own or by clutch action (if you have a stick)? That may cause the fuel pump to shut off until a restart, but the code may stay in memory for a while.

At any rate, check the right O2 sensor, replace if needed and clear the computer memory. I'd bet that the fuel pump code doesn't reappear.
 






Tom,

Thanks for the response! I didnt think about code 41 and 96 being related, but you are right. If the O2 sensor is not responding then the computer may think the system is lean or non-existant. I checked back through my records and the throttle position switch was replaced but not the O2 sensor.

What do you think about the code 67 and 57. I looked up EEC-IV on Yahoo and found a site http://www2.cybernex.net/~eraser/eeciv.html and found our missing code 57!

57 Intermittent in Park/Neutral/ Switch or Neutral Pressure switch circuit - PNP or Transmissions
1990 Scorpio - Octane jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not)

67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
 






Triton, do you have an auto or a manual? If the car always starts reliably, and doesn't start with the clutch out (stick) or in gear (auto), then I wouldn't worry too much about the neutral switch until the other problem is solved. Could be a bad switch or a loose wire on that, or it could be a false code. Is this part of the test done with the engine off or running?

You might have 2 O2 sensors, one in the right exhaust and one in the left. I'm not sure on that vintage. You might as well check them both if you do.
 






Tom,

the 91 only has one sensor so Im good there. Ive heard of others buying the wrong O2 sensor and going through this whole thing again. Do you know what the part number is for the Ford and Bosch O2 sensor for a 1991 Explorer? I found the Bosch number in other threads but just want to be sure before I buy the wrong part.

The truck is a manual and will start every morning without fail in neutral or in gear. It will not start unless the clutch is in, but it has always been that way I think its a safety feature. These codes were all with the Key On Engine Off test procedure.
 






OK, I don't know the part numbers at all, so I can't help you there. I think that if you go to a reputable parts store, they should have the correct number, unless it is a dealer only item. I'm not sure on that. Never replaced one yet.

I suspect that the neutral safety code is due to your having the ignition on but the clutch out. It's fooling the computer, sort of. If you haven't had starting problems, I wouldn't worry about it. If the switch was defective, you would either have a "no-start at all" condition. an intermittent start condition, or a "start anytime regardless of clutch position" condition.
 






Thanks Tom!
 






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