eec-Iv code help

[Maniak]

eec-Iv code help - fixed

I got the motor put back together again (one of my new heads was cracked so my newly rebuilt motor made a milkshake out of the oil)..

I'm getting some codes and need a hand figuring them out..

For some reason I could have sworn my '92 gives 2 digit codes, but now I'm just not sure..

KOEO I got
566566 So.. Either I got 56,65,66 or I got 566
for the CM (I'm assuming there is only 1 seperator pulse) I got
173543173543 (thats all of the numbers it spit out)..
soo.. its either 17,35,43 or its 173,543

Whats making me think its 3 digit is that I "might" have a bad 3/4 shift solenoid simulator (I'll check it when I get home tonight.. its just a 33 ohm resistor). Also, from what I can tell a code 56 shouldn't be able to come up in KOEO test, only in CM. BUT.. when I was pulling the codes yesterday, my notes show two seperator puleses between the KOEO test and the CM..

The symptoms are bad idle.. actually sounds like I have a big cam when things are cold. Bogging when I give it full throttle (I tried it as I went from the dirt road to the blacktop).. If I back off the throttle some it seems to clean up. After a 35 mile freeway trip (55-75mph) it really has issues idleing.. and when I step on the gas from a light after the freeway trip it almost stalls before it takes off.

I checked the TPS voltage and I'm getting .98 at idle and 4.5 Volts at full throttle.

I'm going to pull the codes again in an hour or so and just write down all the puleses I get just to make sure I'm getting them right.

Any insight would be helpful...

Thanks
~Mark

 

[Maniak]

I just repulled the codes to be sure I got them right..

I got the following..

5,6,6,5,6,6
<long pause>
1
<longish pause>
1,7,3,5,4,3,1,7,3,5,4,3

As I read it its 566 for KOEO and 173 & 543 for CM.

Am I reading it correctly?
566 - 3/4 shift solenoid (bad resistor in my case) but shouldn't affect drivability

CM
173 - o2 thinks things are running rich (I kinda think they might be by the way its running)
543 - fuel pump circuit open.. I'm not sure how that could happen since the truck is running. I will double check fuel pressure tonight when I get home...

Any other ideas?

~Mark

 

[MrShorty]

It appears to me that you are reading the codes correctly as three digit codes. Since you know what the KOEO 566 is, I won't comment on that.

CM 173. O2 rich. You kinda think the engine might actually be running rich. I think I would try to decide for sure if that's true. Does the exhaust look rich? Condition of spark plugs? What is fuel pressure? Fuel leaking past FPR diaphragm (is there fuel in the vacuum line to the FPR)?

Do you also get a KOER 173 from the KOER test?

CM 543: Without an accompanying KOEO 543, I expect this is either an old code (say from trying to start it with the relay/fuse unplugged or from a previous repair) or it's an intermittent code.

My '92 would occasionally give me one of these, and I couldn't understand why (gave no other symptoms) until it decided to not want to start intermittently. Finally was able to get my meter on it while it wouldn't start and found a bad connection between the fuse and the relay. The computer was seeing the occasionally "break" in the circuit and recording the code, but the break was never open long enough to cause other symptoms or otherwise be noticeable.

Without other symptoms, I think the best thing to do on this one would be to inspect the fuel pump circuit to see if you can see an obvious loose connection or bad connector. Then clear CM and see if/when it comes back. Unless the code shows up under some kind of predictable circumstance, this one could be pretty tough to track down until it deteriorates to the point of being trackable.

 

[Maniak]

I didn't pull the KOER codes.. I Pulled the codes when I got to work and didn't have time.. and when I went back out to repull the codes the engine was too cold to run it..

I'll run it at lunch..

I cleared the CM codes last night so the 543 must be intermitant.. I'll start following the wires for the fuel circuit.

I was reading up on o2 sensors and from what I understand.. if I was running oil/anti-freeze in the cylinders I may have killed the o2 sensor.. and if the o2 sensor can't sense oxygen anymore it would think its running rich.. which would make it lean things way out.. (I'm just not sure if thats going on since it bogs at fullish throttle).

~Mark

 

[Maniak]

I just noticed the questions you asked...

I can't tell if its rich.. I don't see black smoke etc..

I'll check the Fuel pressure tonight, but last time I checked it was a little high.. 42 at idle.. and the same with the vacuum disconnected.. This is the FPR I was using on my old motor and it read high then too (its been squished some in a vain attempt to up the fuel pressure to stop pining on the old motor.. about 1.5 years ago)

I'll look for fuel in the vacuum line when I do the KOER test at lunch.. I won't be able to pull all the plugs until later in the week (I might be able to do it after I get home from work, if its still light out).

Do you think it would be worth it to throw a FPR and a o2 sensor at it (since I ran antifreeze/oil through the exhuast when I had the cracked head) and to get the Fuel back down to stock numbers?

~Mark

 

[MrShorty]

Where you know it was exposed to antifreeze (you haven't said how much for how long), and some say O2 sensors should be changed periodically anyway, I would sure be tempted to try just changing the sensor and see what happens.

I don't think I would just blindly throw an FPR at it.

 

[Maniak]

I was changing my o2 sensor about every 50k miles (18 months or so).. I've had oil in the water for a couple years. Every couple of months or so I'd lift the lever on the radiator cap to let the oily water out (it was under pressure and since oil is lighter it was at the top and came out). Near the end I was going through about 1/2 gallon of water every 2 weeks which is when I decided to build my spare motor.

When I rebuilt my motor one of my new heads was bad.. The oil was a milkshake at 250 miles. It was about 100 miles between checking the oil when it was fine and when I saw the milkshake.

~Mark

 

[Burns]

Ah man that stinks. Mine did this when i did my motor swap displaying some codes. I changed the plugs and wires and it cleaned up.


I was displaying the same o2 sensor/running rich coed

 

[Maniak]

I have some more info...

I drove to Autozone to get a new o2 sensor (and to warm up the truck before I did the keor test).. The koer test showed the 173 so its still current..

I drove home and pulled the old o2 sensor and it is dark black/sooty.. I know the truck is running rich....

I put on the new o2 sensor and hooked up my Fuel pressure tester.. With KOEO, after 3 cycles of the ignition the gauge showed 58psi.. I started the truck and it showed 60psi for about 10 seconds then jumped to off the scale.. (100 psi).. as the Fuel pressure bounced, the rpms bounced...

I shut off the truck and Yolanda is picking up a FPR for me on her way home..

I'm hoping that will also take care of the code about the Fuel pump sensing..

I found a broken resistor in my a4ld simulator so I know why I'm seeing the bad 3/4 solenoid.. Now I just need to figure why it is burnt.. I'm hoping its just becuase I used an 1/8th watt resistor I had lying around the house.. I'll use a 1/2 watt next time.

I'll post an update in a few hours once I get the new FPR in (Its 40 miles from yolanda's work to home and she has to go a little ways out of the way to get the FPR).

~Mark

 

[MrShorty]

That just about has to be a bad FPR. The only other possibility that comes readily to mind is if something has clogged or pinched the fuel return line. While you have the line disconnected from the FPR, you might check it to make sure it's free flowing.

Good luck.

 

[Maniak]

update..

I installed the new FPR and reset the CM codes...

I started the truck, let it warm up (it seemed smoother)..

while waiting for it to warm up I checked the fuel pressure.. I am now at 40psi with koeo, and 34psi at idle and 40ish with the vacuum line disconnected. I also noticed that when I turn the truck off that I keep fuel pressure.. I've been loosing fuel pressure with the truck off for years It bothered me. I got in the habbit of turning the key on/off then starting the truck..

Onced warmed up I did a koeo test and only got the 3/4 solenoid code and no CM codes
I then did the KOER test.. and the truck was much smoother during the test.. and the only code I got was from not hitting the brakes during the test (I always miss when I'm supposed to)..

I'll see how it does on the trip to/from work (70 miles).. I just hope I didn't kill my new cat (500 miles on it with the engine not quite right).

~Mark

 

[Maniak]

100+ miles later and no codes..

Thanks for the help in deciphering the codes.. I don't know why I was almost convinced it was a 2 digit code system on the X.

~Mark