EGR problems

[DCExploder]

I changed my EGR valve yesterday and found a problem. The small plate and screw that are on face of the stock EGR valve has to be transferred to the new one I bought but the screw is too rusted. The new EGR has two holes in the face, one threaded and one not. I looked at the original and saw that it has this t-15 torx screw holding a plate over the hole (test port?) I can't transfer so I have a hole shooting exhaust at the back of my Canister purge valve and messing up my idle. I tried putting metallic duct tape on it but it blew it off the first time I floored it. One tiny screw and I can't drive it :fire: I have a thread in the WTB section, but I am also looking to see if anyone has jerried this. I need a fix so I can drive it until I can get to a junkyard next weekend. I can't drive as is, cuz I'll burn through my purge valve and suck fumes. I don't need the valve, just the plate. I have a pic of the culprit that I can post tonite if needed.

 

[DCExploder]

bump

 

[ma96782]

Being the exhaust gas gets hot....that'll be tough for a "temp"fix......I bet a permanent fix could be had w/ welding or JB to the rescue. But, you know how it goes.....make mods to the cheap part (it's an experiment, if it don't work).

Aloha, Mark

PS......To remove the bolt......you could try heat and a 24 hour soak in "liquid wrench."

 

[DCExploder]

update - fixed

FYI, if anyone else has thais problem. I took a dremel and flattened two sides of the screw. I was able to fit it in an adjustable wrench (don't use anyhting with teeth, it will destroy it!) some even pressure got it turning and I was even able to use the screw on the new part. The plate has a post that fits into the hole, so DON"T hammer or pry at the plate once the screw is off. tap with a hammer to break the rust and carbon and twist the plate around the post. It will pop out then.