EGR Tube Replacement (98 5.0L) | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

EGR Tube Replacement (98 5.0L)

sall

Member
Joined
April 3, 2009
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
City, State
The Burg
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Mercury Mountaineer
After hunting for a slight tick on acceleration and pesky P0153 DTC I found several cracks in the EGR Tube in the corrugated section.

I ordered the Dorman #598-111 and it arrived today just in time for the weekend. Anyone have any tips/tricks in replacing the EGR tube? Space is at a minimum here. Don't want to break the manifold either.

My plan was to liberally spray rust perpetrator (low flammability) on the connections 3-4 times daily at least two days in advance of trying to break them loose. Looks like a crows foot may come in handy for the manifold bolt but not sure.

Let me know your tips/tricks/experience in changing the EGR tube! TIA!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





penetrating fluid is always a good idea, you could also use a torch to heat it up (or take it for a long drive) to make it easier to remove the bolts
 






I just did mine today! the best to do it is to cut the pipe as short as you can on the manifold side and then spray with lots of penatrating fluid. You can then put a 1 1/16 deep socket on it with a extension and break it loose with a long ratchet. For the egr side I used a 1 1/16 wrench(it will be tight fit with the wrench) to crack it loose and then I used a very short wrench to finish it. It is very tight area for working but if take off your t.p sensor connector and bend/position your heater hose out of the way, it's not bad. I did it all in about 1 hour. good luck and have fun!
 






Thanks for the tips!

My game plan is soak in penetrating oil, cut the tube as flush to the manifold fitting as possible.

Remove the EGR valve and associated hoses. This will let me pull the EGR out and the EGR tube. I will then break the tube fitting loose on the EGR while it is free from the engine compartment.

Then remove the EGR tube fitting on the manifold with a 1 1/16" deep well socket and some extensions.

Then put it all back together with a new EGR gasket of course.

Removing the EGR just seems easier than trying to get the wrench back there to break the fitting. If it makes life easier for a $3.00 gasket, I'm all for it.
 






You don't need to take off the EGR. Just use a crow's foot from the top side. And remember CCW is CW from the top side. Don't crack the fitting, like I almost did. If you have an air impact wrench, put it on LOW and let it tap the fitting out really slowly so you don't break anything. I think it's a 27mm crowsfoot, but not looking at it at the moment.
 






EGR tube has been replaced. No more ticking under acceleration. Yet to see if DTC P0153 will return. Will no for certain after 20-25 miles. Thanks for the help!
 






Featured Content

Back
Top