Electrics -- related to headlight switch?

[whartung]

Here's my story.

'98 XLT 4WD, < 140K miles.

Several months ago, perhaps a year, I get to the office, and the headlight knob plops off in my hand.

I had just got to the office, and found that the headlight switch (apparently) is not mounted to anything, rather it's held on by the knob on the shaft (so I couldn't simply slip the knob back on, the switch gets pushed instead).

I had just arrived at the office, and could not turn my lights off. So, I ran inside and talked to my "mechanical friend".

We came back down, dug out a pair of pliers, got the lights off. We then proceeded to poke around, unscrew the plastic panel underneath the steering column, and the metal panel behind that.

Once done, we got that knob back on "snuggly". It wasn't "all the way" on, but it was close enough. Everything was peachy, and we screwed everything back in to place.

Couple of weeks ago, it happened again. Knob came off.

I didn't really have the time to address it, so I drove around for a couple weeks with a pair of needlenose plier to turn the lights on and off.

Finally, one Saturday, couple weeks ago, I went about on my own to duplicate what we did before, taking the plastic and metal panels off, and reaching behind to hold the switch while I pressed on the knob.

This time, however, I wanted to "do it right", and "get it on tight". So I made an extra effort to squeeze tightly and get the knob on, a task easier said than done. Another thing I did, while trying to get better access to the headlight switch, was I unbolted the fuse panel. It came lose, popped out a little, but I didn't take it much farther than that, as it didn't see to be a "back door" to the headlight switch. I simply screwed it back in as before.

However, now I think I must have hurt the switch or something, as there are several electrical gremlins afflicting me now.

After the knob came off, but before I worked on it, the inner dome light stopped working when I open the door. I fiddled with the panel dimmer switch, but no dome light. The map lights work fine.

After putting the knob back on, I have a laundry list:

• Dash lights will go out intermittently. Fiddling with the light switch brings them back, but I tend to not do it while driving because it's just as likely I'll kill the headlights, so I just drive with a dark dash (not as bad as it sounds).
  
• With the lights on, the engine will continue running even after I have switched off the key and removed it. Killing the lights, stops the engine.
  
• Similarly, last week, with the headlights on, the truck would crank, but not start. I found turning the lights off, the truck would start fine. I have not replicated this, I haven't even tried.
  
• The "3rd Eye" upper breaklight on the back door constantly flickers, day time, night time, lights on, lights off, engine on, engine off, always flickering (I do not know what it does when the brake is applied, now that I think about it). Since it seems to be several LEDs, I'm not really worried about battery drain.
  
• Normally, you start the car, foot on the brake, put car in gear, and let off the brake. At this point, the doors would automatically lock. This no longer happens. Doors lock and unlock just fine using the switch, or using the alarm, just not when releasing the brake.
  
• Cruise control works fine. Radio is fine (though I think the display may flicker...that's more anecdotal in the past than indicative of what's happening now).

I'm curious if when I was "squeezing real hard" on the back of the headlight switch I may have possibly shorted something, or what to bring all of this down upon me. The back of the switch felt (I've never seen it) all taped up, but it was quite sharp and painful to squeeze from the contacts behind it.

Unrelated to this, I believe I need a new wiper combo swich thing (on the left of the column), as I can no longer activate the front wind shield washers. This has simply been more and more difficult to do over the past couple of years, and now no matter how hard I hold it down, it won't work.

It seems clear to me that I managed to do something when I tried to fix the knob. I'm not the most mechanical guy (I'm mostly afraid of breaking something buy forcing it, and not knowing what parts are or are not meant to be forced), and I don't feel comfortable removing more of the dash that I think would be necessary in order to actually inspect or replace headlight switch.

What I would like, though, is to be more informed when I approach a mechanic to fix it. I'd like it to not be some "electric gremlin witch hunt". I'm hoping for an informed "2nd opinion" so I can better discuss this with the mechanic.

Also, since it's electrical, should I take this to the dealer, or should any "modern, competent" mechanic be able to diagnose and fix this problem.

What's involved with replacing a headlight switch? "While they're in there" should I consider replacing the dimmer switch, and the combination high beam/windshield wiper switch at the same time? (Not clear that the work needed for a headlight switch has any real overlap with the windshield wiper switch, doesn't seem so in my Haynes manual...)

Finally, if anyone knows/has any personal recommendations for an Explorer mechanic near Tustin, CA, I'm not particularly attached to the local dealer (Power Ford Tustin), or the Big-O tire store when I get everything else done. They're both basically competent, nothing to really suggest against them, but I'm not passionate about either.

Thank you for any pointers you can provide.

 

[BBQ Bandit]

on the headlight switch...

The switch assembly is screwed onto the backside of the panel by a few screws. Sounds like the switch and mounting screws became cracked and separated away... dropping back into the dashboard... hence the "pliers" application.

To fix it the right way... remove the lower panels under the steering column... remove the center console trim around the radio...the panel and radio will slide out intact. Once removed... will expose the right side of the dasboard fasteners.

Note: Park the truck on a level surface first and place wheel chock blocks around the rear tires. During the removal of the dashboard bezel... you may need to place the shift selector all the way to the right...into "low/first gear"... to facilitate the removal... and tilt the steering wheel to the lowest position.

Once all the screws are removed... slowly wiggle the dashboard bezel out a few inches... noting the arrangement of plugged wires. There are two of them.

One is the headlight switch... probably the mounting areas cracked away. If done carefully... use a good poly cement and reglue the raised mounting points for the switch. Once the glue cures... carefully mount your headlight switch back on.

The second plug is the master interface for all your instrument lights and illumination. Be sure to check for a complete connection. (Had to do my panel twice because I forgot to reconnect the bigger plug. You will definitely notice when you go for the headlights and the dashboard does not illuminate).