Engine Flushing (oil) Recommendations?

[Drewmcg]

I use Gunk

Gunk is not as powerful as some flushes. I follow the directions on the bottle and flush every other oil change. If there is a lot of sludge in the engine and a powerful flush is used the loosened sludge can block oil passages. You should never drive a vehicle with flush in the engine because it weakens the oil bearing protection.

Dale: What did you use to flush that 2000 Sport you had with all the sludge?

 

[2000StreetRod]

I think it was Gunk 5 Minute Motor Flush. As I recall the instructions are to warm up the engine. Then add the motor flush and let the engine idle for 5 minutes. Then drain the oil and replace. There's a caution not to drive with the flush. It thins the oil protective coating on bearing surfaces so engine loads should be avoided. I used it for several oil changes but it wasn't very effective at removing my sludge.

 

[Drewmcg]

Thanks. I don't have nearly the sludge you had (based on your photos), and am trying the Seafoam-in-the crankcase for the initial run of a 3,000 miles (dino oil), after which I plan to use Pennzoil full synthetic for the next 5k miles. I've read on Bob's the oil guy that Pennzoil synthetics are high in cleaning agents. Haven't yet decided whether to go dino or synthetic after that, but am leaning toward dino since the car is running so well on it, and I'm too cheap to replace full synthetic every 5k miles.

I don't like the idea of stretching the oil change interval even with full synth and the recommended Motorcraft filter on this engine.... Oil changes are such a pain on my Volvo S60 (low front end, PITA plastic shield to remove, etc.), that I prefer to use an extended performance filter (Mobil 1 or WixXP) on it, and use the Mobile 1 extended performance oil for 10k+ intervals (vs. 7,500k stock recommendation) on it.