engine wierdness when idling and when flooring from 0

[funnyperson1]

Well, last week my check engine light is on, I am almost certain this was for my 138,000 mile checkup, however it did get me thinking. My engine seems to be acting very funny lately.

First off sometimes when I idle the truck, well, wobbles like vibrates from side to side. This only happens 1/5 times I start up though. Also it seems that it has lost power. Last year when I was driving a Camry I had borrowed this truck from my dad the truck had significant kick to it. It wasnt nearly as powerful as the camry felt but it jumped off the stoplights when I floored it. Now that it is mine, I noticed that it is quite laggy when starting from zero. However at higher speeds I still feel that kick. I think something has happened to the engine that is causing it to malfunction.

When googling I found this:

quote:Fix for a Missing Engine

Posted by: Jack Lobdell

Many Explorer owners have experienced "bogging" or "missing" or just unsteady performance in their 4.0 engine and have been frustrated by lots of expensive "non-fixes". After riding on a plane next to a manufacturing trainer from a company that builds OEM replacement auto electrical components for places like AutoZone and CarQuest, I tried his tip. He says that Ford have these problems more than other makes and the 4.0 engine seems to be more susceptible to the problem than other Ford engines.

It seems that a "missing" engine culprit is actually the computer's sensor inside the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). It eventually just gets a little dirty or builds up its own patina in the filament wires. A dirty or slightly patinated filament will send the wrong air reading to the computer, saying it is getting more air than it really is and the computer will tell the EFI to send in the wrong mix of fuel, thus, the bogging. The patina seems to form faster if you live in a damp climate. I don't so here in New Mexico mine went 82K before it developed a small "flat idle spot"…it would run just fine but the idle began to drop every few revs from 700 to 500. No big deal.

If you have had bogging or missing or idle spots, about every 25K miles plan on this quick cleaning job:
When your engine is cool, remove the wiring clip from the side of the black plastic sensor part of the MAF aluminum body. To remove the MAF interior sensor wire, you will need a Security Star (Size T15 or T20) screwdriver or screwdriver bit for a power screwdriver. Remove the two security star-head screws and carefully remove the sensor. You will see the two sensor filaments…they look almost like the filaments on a light bulb. Carefully spray the filaments with an O2 safe carburetor cleaner, such as Gumout. Let it dry thoroughly. I help mine along with a careful blast or two of canned dry air. While it is drying carefully wipe the aluminum mount surface of the MAF body if there is any dust there, but be careful not to get dust in the mount hole. When the sensor is dry, replace the sensor back in the MAF body and secure with the security star-head screws. These don't need to be torqued down, just simply hand tight. Replace the wiring clip. Then start up your engine. You should have solved any bogging or missing problems. My flat idle spot is ancient history.

Do you think this would be an accurate solution to my problem? If it is, please translate it into english for me, I am very much a begginer when it comes to cars. If this could fix my problem I would be very happy.

 

[Nate1]

Well, that check engine light (better known as CEL around here) isnt caused by milage. It is caused by the computer sensing something is wrong.
Cleaning your MAF is a good idea... that is the first step. It sounds like your engine is missing bad.
Could be oxygen sensors, bad spark plugs... many things.
I would clean your maf, reset your computer, and take it to the dealership, have you checkup done, and take your truck to autozone to have the CEL code read for free.

 

[funnyperson1]

Thats the problem, I dont know what the MAF is. If you could describe what it looks like I could do some "exploring" heh. I also do not know how to reset my computer, I would however like to learn. As for the CEL, it randomly turned off and I will be taking it to the dealership this weekend if it is open.

 

[Nate1]

Hope this helps somewhat... but it's for a 99 sohc.... although the maf will be right after your airbox and look similar....
Dead Link Removed

 

[jimbo74]

maf is the sensor with a big wire pack that goes to it right after your air filter on the intake tube or in the filter housing....... reset the computer by leaving your headlights on, and disconnecting hte battery for like 10 minutes..... then let the truck idle when you restart it for awhile........ also, the problem sounds like it may also be bad plugs/wires, have they been changed? thats a lot of mileage... also, how is the tranny? condition? fluid services?

 

[funnyperson1]

Thanks a lot. Ill try all that tomorrow after I take my truck in for its scheduled check up. As for wires and plugs, I havent changed them, and I doubt my dad would have either unless FORD does it when you take the car in for service. As for transmission fluids I don't know, I only got the truck from my dad a couple weeks ago. I do know that he took it in for all its scheduled check ups.

 

[funnyperson1]

well, long absence. I took it to Ford a while ago and they did some maintenance work and they fixed a cracked steering element. I dont think that they cleaned the maf however. The vibrating at start is gone, but the low engine power is still there (of course this may be just psychological.)

But I decided to try cleaning the maf myself. The problem is that I cannot find anything as described with the two torxion screws. I find various wire type sensors that I can unclamp but none on the air intake which I have to unscrew.

I now have a Haynes manual because I really would like to learn more about my truck and how to fix it myself .

Now in the haynes manual it says that in the 1995-1997 pushrod V6s the maf is located in the air cleaner housing, does this mean I need to take my air cleaner cover off?

Also, thanks to the Haynes manual I found that my radiator coolant reservoir is bone dry . Time to go fix that.

 

[funnyperson1]

oh and sorry for my newbness, but how would I tell if it is a SOHC or pushrod, the only marking I see on the engine itself is EFI.

 

[Majisto]

Originally posted by funnyperson1
oh and sorry for my newbness, but how would I tell if it is a SOHC or pushrod, the only marking I see on the engine itself is EFI.

That means it's an OHV. The SOHC just says 4.0 SOHC on the dust cover.

 

[funnyperson1]

thanks, i fuond the maf, butit is indeed inside the air cleaner housing, looks like a little more indept work will be needed to remove that. problem is that im a little scared to break something :/

 

[TPLYNCH]

The screws should still be there for you to be able to remove it... Don't worry, be happy!

 

[scott_gunn]

I have the same engine as you, but a 98. My MAF was right on top of the intake tube, just past the air filter box.

The two screws had some type of rubber or plastic protector on top of them that I had to pry off. These may be why you're not identifying them as Torx screws.

Good luck!

 

[funnyperson1]

Well thanks for the help all . The air cleaner did indeed house the maf. I unclamped the air cleaner and used a little more muscle than the last time (thats all it needed) and I was able to view the maf in all its glory. The problem (or lack of a problem) is that it looks shiny and brand new (as if ford replaced it when I took it in to check it out) and that my magical speed fix wont happen . I guess I will simply accept that my truck is slow like molasses (i got burned by my friend in a Civic DX) and focus on appearance.

But are there any good, cheap performance mods out there? I have heard of using cold air intakes, mod chips, and changing the exhaust, but will any of these actually make a noticeable change by themself or only as a package? Any other cheap speed mods?

Also what about things to improve gas mileage, I will be going to Vtech this fall and its 4.5 hours from my house.

Again, you guys are great, thanks for everything!

 

[scott_gunn]

The MAF will look clean, even though it may not be. The filaments on mine were sparkly, but cleaning them nonetheless did make an improvement.

 

[Brandons]

But are there any good, cheap performance mods out there? I have heard of using cold air intakes, mod chips, and changing the exhaust, but will any of these actually make a noticeable change by themself or only as a package? Any other cheap speed mods?

Yes those mods do help a lil bit, and make it sound nicer . I got a new muffler for $40 Canadian and i can feel it puts my but into my seat!!! as for the other mods, i just pulled the hose off the manifold that sucks hot air off it into the air system, it helped a bit too. MAF cleanin was a load of crap, from my experience, did nothing and it was black when i cleaned it, but id still clean it to make it look nice

 

[funnyperson1]

well its done, in the little bit i took it around i did notice a bit of a difference. thanks for the help

 

[funnyperson1]

well here is my guide to doing it:

http://asohangh.topcities.com/explorermaf.html