Exhaust Manifold Passenger Side

[fixt]

Exhaust Manifold Break Passenger Side(do over)

I have a mild sounding exhaust leak, found it after removing wheel and splash guard to get my hand in there. It's the common failure break under the heat shield between cylinders #3 and #4.

It's a 1996 5.0 XLT with the internal EGR, with no tube opening, GT40 heads.
I *think* 94-97 manifold is a direct replacement.
All the stock replacements I've found have the EGR opening, don't want that.
Even the Torque Monster have the opening beside being outright expensive and a general pain to reconfigure exhaust.

Where can I find a OEM with no egr opening?
I believe that manifold was manufactured to 11/4/96 and then discontinued.
Am I stuck with junkyard parts?
The junkyard part problem is it may be broke too.

Need recommendations please.
Thanks for the help.

 

[fixt]

new info, leak found

Bump up with new info, part info request.

 

[Jason c]

You can get the TM headers without the egr. He can build them in just about any configuration you want. They will pay for them selves with the gas money you will save.

 

[2000StreetRod]

cap the EGR port?

All of the new manifolds probably will have the EGR port so they can fit the 96 thru 98 models. Why can't you just cap the EGR port?

 

[fixt]

All the OEM parts I've found have it, and I may end up having to do that.
I was kinda hoping for NOS at a reasonable price
Dorman part 674-357 replacing F77Z9430-JA
EM002, from Xiangshan Huatai Plastic Electric Appliance Co. Ltd serving North America, blah blah blah. Probably known in the east as Factory #57.
Don't know if they outlast OEM.

Jason, I did not know that. I just looked at the pictures on the TMH web site and they all showed the EGR opening.
Will they bolt straight up without having to replace/reroute the exhaust system? Maybe I should email the guy and ask; the angles look right.
It's the money thing, it would have to save a lot of gas. Or maybe not so much the way gas prices are headed.

I did find a guy parting out a 96 5.0 in the for sale section, maybe he's got one in good shape for a decent price. It's a job I don't want to get good at by repeating it. Ebay had rusted up junk or no picture at all.
There's always Junk Yard Dog, same used part risk for a OEM sucky part already known to break.

Thanks for the help. Gotta think about what to do.

 

[jremington59]

I don't understand your concern?

The new one will come with a plug for the egr hole. It's threaded and a bolt goes in there very tight and solid. I just did mine a few months ago. If it wasn't for the inside exhaust flange bolt it would be a breeze. The inside bolt made it a nightmare.

Regarding a used one, I wouldn't even consider it. It's a part that cracks on almost everyone, so all your doing is buying time until that one cracks.

 

[fixt]

I don't understand your concern?

The new one will come with a plug for the egr hole. It's threaded and a bolt goes in there very tight and solid. I just did mine a few months ago. If it wasn't for the inside exhaust flange bolt it would be a breeze. The inside bolt made it a nightmare.

Regarding a used one, I wouldn't even consider it. It's a part that cracks on almost everyone, so all your doing is buying time until that one cracks.

Well, based on the concern over used parts that are already known to break, I went ahead and ordered the Dorman part from Rock Auto. Inexpensive is one thing, cheap is false economy.
I don't want to do this job enough to get good at it.
It will suck. I dread it.
I am certain it will suck, and I only want it to suck once.

I'll start using PB Blaster on the bolts today, and pray over them.
I need to add up extensions.
I haven't needed the 3 ft in so long I don't know where it is.
Thanks for the info.

 

[jremington59]

I can give you a little advice.

After you take off the inside guard, plugs, manifold bolts and the outside flange bolt, you'll want to pry the manifold out away from the block and it will be easier to get onto the inside exhaust flange bolt. When you put it back together it will be easiest to put the inside bolt on before you install the manifold. At least it was on mine.

 

[fixt]

I can give you a little advice.

After you take off the inside guard, plugs, manifold bolts and the outside flange bolt, you'll want to pry the manifold out away from the block and it will be easier to get onto the inside exhaust flange bolt. When you put it back together it will be easiest to put the inside bolt on before you install the manifold. At least it was on mine.

Advice is appreciated.
It's seemingly little things that help a great deal, the practical advice from those who have actually done it. I've reviewed the TMH install sticky for manifold removal to make a plan, to be adjusted as needed.
I just hope the bolts co-operate by *not* breaking.
Also, the break is between cylinders 2 and 3, not 3 and 4 as I said above, anyone reading probably knew that.

By "inside guard", I assume you are referring to the plastic fender liner?

Tracking shows manifold should be here Friday, we'll see if weather will be decent. Fast work by Rock Auto, I've been really happy with them.
Prices beat anything in town. $128.43 delivered, closest price here was $248 at advance for the exact same part.

 

[jremington59]

My vehicle came from Tennessee where they don't use salt, and the manifold bolts practically fell out.

I got my new one from rock auto also. What I didn't like is with the design I couldn't use a socket to tighten a couple of the bolts as they were to close to the side of the tubes to get a socket on it.

 

[fixt]

My vehicle came from Tennessee where they don't use salt, and the manifold bolts practically fell out.

I got my new one from rock auto also. What I didn't like is with the design I couldn't use a socket to tighten a couple of the bolts as they were to close to the side of the tubes to get a socket on it.

Did you get the Dorman 674-357 or the ATP manifold?
Reason I ask is the Dorman install sheet says a max of .010 end to end runout for 4 cyl and V8 engines and mine ain't that flat. It's high spot is about .024 using a straightedge and feeler gauge. If I bolted it straight up it would induce strain between #2 and 3 sections, right where the old one broke
It might not matter at all but the gasket is .056 thick.

Careful action with a 16" file has improved flatness considerably to this point. My gaskets were also buggered in shipping; something punched through the box they were in. No biggie there, new Felpro is $8.

I'm going to take some live data before and after just to see if there's any difference. Maybe O2 sensor voltages will show something. Call it curiousity.

 

[fixt]

Progress made

The old manifold is off. I invented new words for the inside collector bolt. Extensions in a variety of lengths were of no help in my case as there was too much interference from the bottom side. You can't get there from here.
Pretreating the bolts with PB Blaster was undoubtedly a big help.

Turdles passenger side manifold

My 1996 XLT

New one is hanging with the inside collector bolt in.
Some manifold bolt alignment issues, nothing a little prying in 4 different directions while starting the bolts with my toes won't fix.

ETA: After some creative prying about, it's done. An exercise in spatial relations.
Torqued to 33 ft lbs, warmed up and retorqued. Test drive and no leaks.
I seriously cheated on the inside collector bolt, but it worked out just fine. I ran the inside collector bolt all the way in before starting manifold bolts, started the outside bolt. Torqued the manifold and used the outside bolt to pull it together at the round manifold exhaust joint.
Think of it as bolting a clamshell together with the inside bolt as the hinge point. The bolt must turn free by hand to do it this way and will protrude about 3/8" or so.
I'm a happy camper that it's over without broken bolts or other Murphy's Law stuff.
Many thanks to everyone responding here.