Explorer died , crank no start, P0320 Code

[waz]

Happy Friday. I am asking for help. I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4.0 , 150,000 Miles. I was driving along and the Explorer died. I had existing codes of P0171 & P0174 which I was tracking down, but when the car died it threw a p0320 code. While I was driving I had my code reader plug into the data link, but I don't remember if I plug it in when the engine was running. The reason I mentioned that is because I was wondering if the code reader could have messed up the PCM. The problem is that I cannot find the problem of the no start. What I did was change the CMK sensor. After the crankshaft sensor change, the truck tried to start briefly. Then I checked the TPS sensor - that is good - I checked one spark wire for spark, it had spark. The fuel Schrader valve only has a trickle of fuel when depressurized. The fuel pump goes one with the turn of the key & you can hear it when cranking the engine. I need guidance on what to do from here. I know I need to test more, but can you guys direct me. Previously I change the intake gaskets and did the chain tensioners - I pulled the engine for that. That was about 7-9 months ago. I hope the chain didn't jump, but I don't have any lose of power or anything like that. I also did a smoke test last weekend and the smoke came out the EGR Valve. (that just a side note.) I really need the community's help. Sorry for the long post, but I tried to explain what I did.

 

[DoraThe_Explorer]

Just out of curiosity… Did you get the new crankshaft positioning sensor from a junkyard or new from an auto parts store?

If its from a junk yard, I would try another one to make sure it is not defective.

Also, I don't know if its necessary, but after I replaced the one in my truck I disconnected the battery for a few minutes to let the computer reset. Did you try that?

In reference to the P0717 and p0174 codes, did you clean / replace the MAF sensor yet?

 

[waz]

Dora the Explorer

I bought a BWD from Advance Auto - I had the battery disconnected and I did clean & check the MAF , bought the CRC MAF Cleaner - did not replace it

 

[waz]

can anybody help with my no start ?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

The following thread may help: Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

 

[waz]

2000 street rod = after following the no start procedure, getting to the fuel pump, I have 15 psi of pressure - I would think something with the fuel pumps is bad - what may your thoughts be

 

[2000StreetRod]

low fuel pressure

P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction

The fuel pump only runs for about 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on but should run continuously when the starter is cranking the engine. The PCM determines the engine is rotating during cranking via the crankshaft position sensor. I suggest you determine if the fuel pump is bad or if the crankshaft position sensor is not functional. Turn the ignition on for about 5 seconds and then off and record the fuel pressure. Repeat the process. After the third cycle the pressure should have increased to 60 psi or greater. If not then you probably have a fuel delivery problem. Some fuel pressure gauge adapters do not fit correctly on the Schrader valve resulting in a lower than actual pressure. Make sure that's not an issue. You mentioned that you can hear the fuel pump running when the starter is cranking. If you are certain of that then the cranshaft position sensor is functional but the DTC indicates it may not be. If the pressure is actually that low then either your pump has failed or there is a blockage in the fuel filter or supply hose/tube. If you have 150K miles on the original pump then it's probably reached its end of life.

 

[waz]

Thank you very much. Can I fuel delivery problem help setting the p0320 code.

 

[waz]

I rechecked the fuel pressure like you posted ,the first pressure was at 18. the second was at 20 and the third pressure was 20. I had the someone else listen to the fuel pump and it runs during cranking the engine. I am checking the Crank Sensor Circuit to make sure everything is working correctly

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel delivery problem

Even if the crankshaft position sensor were faulty after three cycles of the ignition key the fuel pressure should have increased to 60 psi. If your gauge reading is accurate then the pump or the intank fuel pressure regulator has failed, the hose at the output of the pump in the tank has split, the intank filter (sock) is clogged blocking the pump inlet port, or there is a block in the external fuel filter or hose/tube, or there is a high resistance electrical path in the pump circuit.

Do you have a VOM and know how to use it? Electrical testing would help isolate the low fuel pressure problem source.

 

[waz]

Do I use your fuel pump Electrical procedure ?

 

[2000StreetRod]

resistance tests

Since the fuel pump runs when the starter cranks you know that the logic is working correctly. Your pump just isn't generating enough pressure. You can remove the fuel pump relay and measure the resistance from the pin 5 contact to chassis ground and report the value. I'll have to research what it should be for a good pump. Make sure that you use a good chassis ground such as the battery negative terminal.

 

[waz]

Thank you 2000 Streetrod. The value is 3.3 ohms. Pin 5 to the negative battery terminal

 

[2000StreetRod]

good electrical path

In my opinion the electrical path is good. I suggest dropping the tank and inspecting the fuel pump assembly: Fuel pump replacement - 2000 Explorer Sport

Check the "sock" to see if its clogged preventing the pump from pulling fuel from the tank. Check the hoses to and from the pump looking for splits, breaks or loose clamps.

 

[waz]

I changed my fuel pump and now I have 55-60 lbs of pressure. The Explorer still doesn't start. Any suggestions ?

 

[2000StreetRod]

two problems

My Sport wil start and run (but not well) on as little as 15 psi of fuel pressure. I suspect you've had low fuel pressure for some time and something else caused your engine to not start. Since you had a P0320 code I suggest that you check the crankshaft position sensor again. Turn the ignition on and let it stay on until the fuel pressure at the rail bleeds down below what it was when the PCM disabled the pump relay. Then turn the ignition key from on to start and see if the fuel pressure increases indicating the pump is running based on a signal from the crankshaft position sensor. The following thread may give you more ideas: Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

 

[waz]

The anti theft system blinks without the key in , then with the key in turn on the light goes solid for second or so then go out
the fuel pump turns on with the key on
check engine light illuminates with key on
start cranks
check engine light is off when cranking
the TPS has 5 volts
battery voltage at 12.26
pulled the coil of and primary side pins 3 & 2 have 1.2 ohms & 1.3 ohms where pin 3 has .6 , the secondary side towers has 12.37, 13.09 & 12.90 k ohms
I put a vacuum to the EGR and it held
I didn't check compression yet or
fuel injectors


Could my coil be bad ?
I replaced the crankshaft sensor
is there any easy way to check for PIP signal ?

 

[2000StreetRod]

check ignition

Did you confirm that your fuel pressure increases when the starter is cranking? If it does then the PCM is detecting TDC from the crankshaft position sensor and can compute ignition and injector timing.

I suggest that you test for spark. Do you have one of the low cost ignition test lights? If not, you can test for spark and injection by disconnecting the main intake hose from the throttle body, opening the throttle plate and spraying starting aerosol thru the throttle body into the upper intake manifold. Quickly crank the starter to see if the engine fires for a second or two. If it does, you know that you have spark but no fuel inection.

 

[waz]

ignition check

I did the fuel pump check, had pressure when I cranked the car
the pressure with the key on was at 64 , the pressure went to 60 and when I cranked it pressure went to 65

I checked for spark at one plug and had spark
I sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and it did not start
I checked a fuel injector and had 11.8 volts, I check the ground but my volt meter switched down to 8 or 9 volts I read the meters don't switch fast enough to see if the pcm is grounding the injectors
I disconnected the inertia Fuel cutoff switch and cranked the engine with the fuel pressure gage attached the fuel pressure dropped greater than 5 lbs which I read was good for the ability of the fuel injectors to deliver fuel
I believe I have Fuel, Spark and my crankshaft sensor is good

I didn't do a compression test , is there anything I maybe overlooking ?


Thank you

 

[2000StreetRod]

what plugs?

What kind of spark plugs are installed and what is the gap? How old are they?

Since the engine was apparently running fine and then just died I assume that something failed. You have ignition, fuel pressure, and the engine didn't start on starting fluid. I suggest pulling easiest plug to access on each bank, examine the condition of the plug and gap, and check the compression while the plug is out.

Is there a chance you were driving in extremely cold conditions without adequate antifreeze protection? Were there any indications of overheating? If so, a head gasket may have blown and you should check the compression of all cylinders and examine the plugs. Your compression should be about 180 psi or more after a few engine revolutions.