Explorer spark plugs replacement

[whimsey]

the Motocraft spark plugs for our 2.3 EB Explorer are made in Japan and have a striking resemblance to NGK plugs. But at Rock Auto they were ~$4.50/plug vs the NGK ~$7.00/plug. They are Iridium plugs. The spec'd gap is ~.028. Which is close to the gap for the plugs on my 1972 Beetle .

Whimsey

 

[KayGee]

I would say only use a platinum or iridium plug on your exchange due to long life. And yes out past 130K miles, or 5 years you probably do need to take them out.

I don't care either way, but it is said by some that it is advisable to stick with OE or better plug material and not downgrade. If 2013 sport oe plug is platinum, than platinum (same) or iridium (better) should be fine. However, if 2013 sport OE plug is iridium, one should not step down to platinum. I believe it falls into the same general guideline as other replacement parts as far as stick with OE type/design/quality/etc or better and don't downgrade to lesser type/design/quality/etc...


For anyone interested, there is lots of wonderful and conflicting info on spark plugs regarding how long they should last. Much of it directly from the plug manufacturers. Here is Denso's take on spark plugs (note km, not miles and longest life for iridium tt is only 120K km which is only 75K miles) - http://www.denso-am.com/media/produ...l-you-need-to-know-from-the-experts-at-denso/

"The estimated mileage of standard nickel spark plugs is between 30,000 and 45,000 km, platinum spark plugs around 70,000 km, and double platinum spark plugs more than 80,000 km. The estimated mileage of iridium spark plugs – depending on the thickness of the central electrode and the construction of the ground electrode – ranges from 60,000 km up to 120,000 km in the case of DENSO Super Ignition Spark Plugs, which feature a protruding ground electrode, like DENSO’s Twin Tip (TT) Spark Plugs."

NGK says their traditional iridium plug will last 40-50K and their laser iridium plugs typically last 80-100K miles. How Long Do Iridium Plugs Last?

Coils honestly shouldn't need replacing when you replace plugs since all ford engines are coil on plug design these days (well theo ones on the exporer are). When they die you will get a code.

Would you mind sharing the code/s that will be set for a dead coil? That seems like it would be helpful info for many.

 

[fjc2]

Also keep in mind, if you go to the Ford Maintenance Schedule site (google it), put in your mileage and vehicle and such, you also get the option to select Operating Conditions. No matter what I pick for my 2014 Explorer Sport (even 'Normal Driving Conditions"), it recommends replacing my platinum plugs at 60,000 miles.

 

[peterk9]

Also keep in mind, if you go to the Ford Maintenance Schedule site (google it), put in your mileage and vehicle and such, you also get the option to select Operating Conditions. No matter what I pick for my 2014 Explorer Sport (even 'Normal Driving Conditions"), it recommends replacing my platinum plugs at 60,000 miles.

Your Owner's Manual says to replace spark plugs at 100K miles and does not specify any conditions.

Peter

 

[Napalm]

I don't know the exact DTC's off hand but they are written in the shop manual either via ALLDATA or some other source there is a listing. IF I recall correctly it's even coded per coil location so as to tell you which one also.

IE if you have codes on your scanner it will coorleate and you'd know for certain. Light or intermittent coil failure doesn't set a code that I know of - but a repeat failure past ____ cycles sets a hard code even if it gets better.

 

[Flying68]

I replaced my plugs at 100,000 miles myself. I didn't have any issues getting them out, didn't even take that long, a couple hours if I remember right. Pretty sure I just went with OEM Motorcraft plugs. I did check the gap on the ones I pulled out and it was way off, mostly because the electrode had worn away. I would say if you are within 10,000 miles of the recommended interval, you are probably good. I suspect going much longer could lead to misfires due to the wear of the plugs.

 

[KayGee]

I don't know the exact DTC's off hand but they are written in the shop manual either via ALLDATA or some other source there is a listing. IF I recall correctly it's even coded per coil location so as to tell you which one also.

IE if you have codes on your scanner it will coorleate and you'd know for certain. Light or intermittent coil failure doesn't set a code that I know of - but a repeat failure past ____ cycles sets a hard code even if it gets better.

Are you referring to P0350 or P0351-P0362 - ignition coil A-L?

If so, it is my understanding that these codes do not just mean a specific coil is bad. One still needs to diagnose if there is a misfire, short to ground, wiring issue, or possibly PCM problem. If you are referencing shop manual/Alldata info, you should already know all this... Codes just help identify what system is affected and guide you down a diagnosis/repair path, they don't magically transport you to the destination.

I did check the gap on the ones I pulled out and it was way off, mostly because the electrode had worn away. I would say if you are within 10,000 miles of the recommended interval, you are probably good. I suspect going much longer could lead to misfires due to the wear of the plugs.

As the gap grows, it can lead to misfires, premature coil failure, increased emissions/reduced fuel economy, and so on.
It never hurts to check plugs before the specified maintenance interval and re-gap/replace, as necessary.

 

[Napalm]

yes specifically those codes mean something is wrong with the circuit of coil ______. It could be the coil - it could be the lead shorts to the head because it's cracked - it could be the computer connection to the coil is bad - the harness end corroded, wires broken, etc

something is amiss with coil _______. Upon pulling out coil ______ you should do a check over of the various connections and conditions of the pieces.

 

[Stephen Cannon]

Getting the AED and Paddles out for this thread. I am thinking of changing but not for the reason you might think. Yes they do recommend 100K intervals but my concern and whether dealer does it or not the concern is still there. Trying to get a plug out with 10K is or at least should be a lot easier than 100K. Yes I would keep the same gap and heat range as per OEM instructions but really don't want to think about trying to get in there at 100K. Especially with the previous history of the V8 engines either stripping threads or breaking off plug in the cylinder wall. Yes I realize different engine, different but with something like that....."The apple doesn't fall from the tree" as they say. Back track a bit to the Taurus SHO. I had a 2014 SHO and believe it or not changing plugs on the transverse Front engine rear back was about 10 times easier than my 2015 Expedition with the same engine. The SHO just remove the strut tower cross brace and loosen a couple of brackets and rear bank is about as simple as it gets. About the only thing easier for removal of the rear bank on the Taurus 3.5 would be a quick disconnect coupler. Yes they look intimidating but it does appear that it can be done. I personally am skittish about all these high mileage recommendations especially figuring they are banking on the odds of the items going out after the warranty has expired. I don't have a problem with someone changing earlier than the OEM recommendations, as long sa they are aware of the pitfalls.

 

[thefranchise713]

I wouldn't blame you on an early change, although there's no way you have enough mileage to worry about it.

I've seen misfires with 80k. Had I kept mine, I was planning to change them between 75-80k at most.

 

[Stephen Cannon]

Alex....welcome back....are you lost again? This is the big boys with big toys forum.....the Prius forum is lower leve next to linens and kitchen appliances.

Sorry buddy......Couldn’t resist!! thanks again for the service manual and cargo cover/net.

 

[JG28082]

I'm here to revive this old thread and let anyone who is thinking about doing their spark plugs, atleast on the 3.5 ecoboost, it's very easy. Nothing else to take out of the way other than the charge pipe's 1 bolt and couple of clamps, have the 6 inch swivel ext and a 3 inch ext for the back otherwise it wasn't a big deal, just did them in about 1.5 hours and that included a trip back to the auto parts store in my wife's car to exchange the 1 incorrect plug I was sold. They didn't have the NGK's and I wanted to go iridium so I went autolite iridiums. I only have 80k miles and am the 2nd owner since 60k, I wasn't sure if the plugs I pulled may have original so I figured better safe than sorry, they were only slightly gapped at around. ..40. Torrie at unleashed had recommended...28, I went around. 30... I also just did a mobil 1 oil change and filter and sync 3 upgrade! My explorer is getting all the love this month.

 

[Satz]

I'm here to revive this old thread and let anyone who is thinking about doing their spark plugs, atleast on the 3.5 ecoboost, it's very easy. Nothing else to take out of the way other than the charge pipe's 1 bolt and couple of clamps, have the 6 inch swivel ext and a 3 inch ext for the back otherwise it wasn't a big deal, just did them in about 1.5 hours and that included a trip back to the auto parts store in my wife's car to exchange the 1 incorrect plug I was sold. They didn't have the NGK's and I wanted to go iridium so I went autolite iridiums. I only have 80k miles and am the 2nd owner since 60k, I wasn't sure if the plugs I pulled may have original so I figured better safe than sorry, they were only slightly gapped at around. ..40. Torrie at unleashed had recommended...28, I went around. 30... I also just did a mobil 1 oil change and filter and sync 3 upgrade! My explorer is getting all the love this month.

Lucky on my 2011 i had to take the air intake top portion of the engine and it need a new gasket when you reassemble to get to the rear plugs. i did mine around 120 and now i am at 170.

 

[texsn95]

So is gapping at 30 what most Ecoboost owners use? Oem gap is what, 35?