First check-ep turns up a few problems

[coliniscool]

So i just had my 97 XLT diagnosed two weeks after i bought it. and the shocks need to be replaced, the drive belt is cracked (but my mechanic says that it probably won't break, but i should have it replaced), the general 100,000 mile services need to be done (plugs, differential service etc.) and the front differential might have a loose pinion OR a shotty wheel bearing from the sound i was getting from inside. so my question is, what should i get done in what order, im not made of money so i can't get it all done at the same time. heres a simplified list

1. Shocks replace
2. Drive belt replaced
3. Differential service (fluid change, filter change)
4. Plugs replaced (double platinum???im not sure what they are right now)
5. Find and kill the illusive noise coming from the front of the car. (my mechanic says either way that i should just listen and see if it changes in pitch, or gets louder before i take it back to find exactly where the noise is coming from)

I was thinking shocks first becuase i can do that by myself on a sunday afternoon, they're shocks all around on a 97 XLT right? The drive belt i thought should be second, then the differential service and plugs replaced.

I will have all this done regardless in about two to three months (if i still have a job ) so its not like ill put off any of this for a year which i know could cause some serious problems.

Thanks everyone,

Colin.

 

[section525]

I'd do the belt first. It's a $30 and 15 minute job. All the others should can be done in any order I guess. I'd replace the plugs with some stock motorcraft or autolites. No need to get anything fancy.

 

[dreamr]

1. Drive belt replaced

Do this first. If it does decide to break you are stranded. It's easy and relatively inexpensive ($42 for mine). While your at the auto parts store pick up a Chiltons or a Haynes manual ($15) and you'll save yourself a bundle on many things to come. Now that you have used your new manual to change that pesky belt. Take the old one and stash it in the toolbox should that new one wear out and break one day. You have a spare.

2. Differential service (fluid change, filter change)

Me I would do this next, mainly because it may eliminate number 5 and it probably needs done for the sake of a gear set. Who knows when the previous owner did this last. With that in mind, plan on budgeting to slowly have all fluids flushed and replaced to get yourself a fresh start at a good maintenance cycle. About $10-15 to do it yourself. $30 each for a shop to do it.

3. Shocks replace

Shocks are fairly quick and easy though can be pricy depending what you want ($20-70 each.). One thing I promise you is you'll love the investment cause yours are likely the factory originals and shot. Check the useful thread section of this site for a great write up by Hartman.

4. Plugs replaced (double platinum???im not sure what they are right now)

I would actually add this in while i changed the drive belt. Plugs are an easy thing to do but a pain to get a finger or socket on. Expect a long process and skinned knuckles. This gives you some time tro familiarize yourself with the layout of the engine bay for future repairs though

I suggest jacking one front side up, removing the tire, removing the splash guard, and removing the plugs from there. Much easier. Brand is not really as big a deal as people like to say, just so they are good quality not the 99 cent crap. Personally have found my girl prefers factory motorcraft platinum plugs ($8 each. You need 6). Expensive due to the multi point platinum stuff, but worth it. In truth the factory plugs are better than the bosch plats.

5. Find and kill the illusive noise coming from the front of the car. (my mechanic says either way that i should just listen and see if it changes in pitch, or gets louder before i take it back to find exactly where the noise is coming from)

If your clean gear oil doesn't help here, my next thought would be a wheel bearing. Again jack the vehicle up and remove the front tire. Rotate the disk and see how freely it turns vs. the other side. True both may be bad, but generally if they are very rough as they turn the wheel bearings are starting to go. You may also find a bit of side to side play. Grab the top and bottom and push and pull in opposing directions to test for any play. You usually won't get any untill they are pretty bad, but ya never know. Mine had a very loud moan coming from the front. It was focused around 35 mph primarily. Now the other side is starting These are very spendy in the second gens as the hub and wheel bearing is all one sealed unit. Expect to spend around $200+ for the part if that is what is responsible.

Hope all that blue mixed in with the quote is somewhat helpful. Probably the best advice I can offer though is to get that Chiltons or Haynes. The guys on here are extremely knowledgeable and can help guide you to the solutions, but that book is your instruction manual.

Good Luck
Bryce

 

[coliniscool]

Thanks for the advice guys, actually i have a haynes manual, and i looked up how to replace the shocks, but i immediatly assumed that the differential stuff and the drive belt was a little over my head. but ill look it up and keep you all updated.

Thanks again,

Colin.

 

[dreamr]

You can do the dif 2 ways. There are fill plugs up near the top of the dif. Slip a small hose in there and you can pump it out. Or you can pull the cover and get it much cleaner. Just use some RTV to seal it back up. The tube of black silicone like stuff. It's often called super black or something similar. the gear oil specs should be in your haynes or owners manual. I can't remember right now

The drive belt is simple. Take a 3/8 drive breaker bar and slip it into the square hole on the front of the tensioner pully. Twist it back and pull the belt off. One of those stickers under your hood by the headlight flaps will have the correct installation pattern. Get it on there then twist that tensioner back and route it past there. When you let off the tensioner pully it will rest against the belt and maintains the tension. That's it

 

[dreamr]

You will find both of these easier than the shocks.

Shocks are easy, but those top bolts on the rear would have been a pain without the body lift.

 

[coliniscool]

ok, so i just bought a new serpentine drive belt, and im installing it tonight, there are some great step-by-step instructions posted on the thread which is awesome becuase i took a look in the engine compartment wondering how the hell i was going to get a ratchet in there, and i realized that i should take the air hose off, but i checked here before i really did it, thinking there might be a better way. shouldn't take too long, so i think ill order the shocks on monday.

 

[97BlackX5.0]

take a sat and for under 200 bucks you can do it all

 

[coliniscool]

good call, i wish i actually had a weekend to work on my car, that would be awesome why must i work *shakes fist*. anyway i replaced the drive belt tonight, nd the belt tensioner was held up for a good 20 minutes with a pipe on the ratchet for leverage, and when i put it all back together, it doesnt tense as much as it did with the old one. ill leave it alone over night, it probably needs time to recover from the spring being compressed for so long.

 

[coliniscool]

oh by the way, im looking into all my options for new shocks and im weiging either the bilstein heavy duties for $265 (all four) shipped, or kyb monomax for about $200 shipped. i also looked at a few other brands, but i dont know which way i should go. since im not planning to take it off road everyday, i want shocks that will be awesome on-road, but that will hold up well off-raod as well. any more brands/models of shocks that anyone can think of will help too.

 

[dreamr]

I had a hell of a time deciding on shocks as well.

From what I hear bilstines are pretty stiff for a mopstly on road vehicle.

Personally for a vehicle that doesn't see serious off roading very often I recommend either the Edelbrock IAS ($$$), Monroe Reflex ( $$), or Gabriel VST ($).

If you plan on seeing rough terrain frequently I would change those selections to include the Bilstiens, OME, Rancho, and Pro-Comp. In order of price as well.

 

[coliniscool]

OK cool, that will help my decision a lot, i heard that bilsteins rocked but i didnt know if they were good only offroad and stiff as hell onroad. after waiting overnight to see if the belt tensioner stiffened up a little, i started the car and the belt is chirping a lot, im wondering what could have caused this, because after installing the new one last night, i noticed that the marks on the top of the tensioner were a lot farther over to the right then with the old belt. its not nearly as tense either. did i buy the wrong size belt or what?? i had the guy at the parts store find it on the computer, so im pretty positive its the right one. im really confused and i dont know where to go from here, should i take it back?? or is chirping at first normal?

 

[dreamr]

after waiting overnight to see if the belt tensioner stiffened up a little, i started the car and the belt is chirping a lot, im wondering what could have caused this, because after installing the new one last night, i noticed that the marks on the top of the tensioner were a lot farther over to the right then with the old belt. its not nearly as tense either. did i buy the wrong size belt or what??

Hmm I am a bit confused. When you say the marks on the tensioner do you mean that the tensioner has rotated a lot further than it did previously? Or that the groves on the pully are not lining up with the grooves on the belt?

There are two belts available. One for A/c, one without. The A/c belt is considerably longer, so possibly the parts guy did make a mistake, but it is hard to say from here.

 

[coliniscool]

actually i just figured it out, it turns out that he gave me the belt for the OHV engine with air conditioning instead of the SOHC with air conditioning, its about 1.5" longer than the one that i need, so im going to have to get that belt off my car and exchange it. man what a hassle!!

 

[coliniscool]

so its in now and there aren't any problems, unfortunently the store only had the Dayco Polycog belts for that size which cost me about $50. whatever though, it wouldnt had been worth trying to spend all day tracking down a cheaper one. the packaging says it should last much longer than a normal one, but i guess ill have to wait and see. thanks for the help guys.