Fixed problem w/ transfer case? - why did it work? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Fixed problem w/ transfer case? - why did it work?

Johnny Glenn

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 2, 2009
Messages
233
Reaction score
1
City, State
Charleston, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
02-04 Explorers
Thanks for looking in - I recently bought an 03 Ex w/ Auto4x4 and was told it had a bad transfer case. It drove fine through acceleration but when coasting, a whine could be heard (not the rear diff) and slight jerks or binding felt. I unplugged the 4x4 control module and it runs like new. Was it the t-case, the module, or something else the problem? Thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





More info might be helpful? I never tried to switch into 4x4 - It was in 2WD during test drive. I didn't want to take a chance in it getting stuck in 4WD...but I was definitely surprised that disconnecting the 4x4 module worked to cure the whine and slight binding.....just trying to figure out why that worked?
 






02's and 03's were known for 4x4CM problems. My dad had to replace his.
In 04, the 4x4CM was eliminated and its controlled in the ECU

Unfortunately its an expensive thing to try...
Might be worth a $79 diagnostic at he stealership...
 






Thanks - I've had problems w/ control modules in other Explorers but never one that caused a whine and binding. I'm thinking there was something wrong w/ the 4x4 system and disconnecting the module circumvented the real problem?
 






not sure what to tell you...
I feel if it were a mechanical failure, the 4x4cm would not affect it if unplugged
 






also don't forget mismatched tires will cause this unplugging just turns the thing off like the brown wire mod.

Tire pressure may be way off?

4x4 uses the ABS system to figure out when to turn on, might have a problem with one of those, fools the system in thinking a tire is slipping.
 






Digging up old bones... I'm surprised there are no other threads about this particular problem with the transfer case. Unless i'm just not searching the rite key words. My 03 EX is doing the same thing Johnny Glenn described. A slight whine and a surging or binding feeling when coasting. The surge gets worse the faster your coasting. I did just get some new used tires for the rear before I went on a 1600 mile trip over the weekend, but it didn't seem to start surging until I was about 500 miles into the trip. So even though the thought crossed my mind I kinda ruled out the tire size being slightly different due to the brand names being different. how much difference could there possibly be between a Michelin and a Bridgestone 255/55R18 that both have about 50% tread remaining, and how much difference in height does it take to effect the load distributing transfer case( 4X4 AUTO ) 1/4", 1/2", 1"??????
Today I put the transfer case in 4 Hi and the surging went away, but the whine Johnny Glenn mentioned got considerably worse when engaged in 4 hi. So is this an electronic problem or a internal mechanical problem or a tire size problem??????????????
 






I have a new CM from Ford on mine (CM and 4x4 low actuator were dead) and I had binding in the turns. Turns out the CM keeps the front wheels engaged 10%... That is just wearing out the front drive shaft clutch. Did the Brown Wire Mod. No Binding and 2 wheel low now lol
 






One quarter inch in circumference. Which on a 29 is about a sixteenth of inch in overall height. Divide that in half gives you 1/32" in treadwear difference on MATCHING tires. The system is very sensitive, matching tires, inflation, along with proper and frequent tire rotation is CRITICAL.
 






Thanks for the input guys.. I just went outside and took out #17 & #18 fuses, and went down the road. Holly BeJe@#s!!!! I have owned this EX for just around 10 yrs now, and never has it coasted so free. I'm thinking something in that clutch system has been out of sync since I have owned it. It has always pushed worse than a dump truck at Dover whenever I drive in the snow or mud, and I always wrote it off as that's just what they do. Any other 4x4 vehicle I have ever owned, when you steer to the right in the snow while in 4 wheel drive, and you gas on it the front end will pull around to the right. Not my EX, you gas on it in the snow steering all the way to the right, and your going to go straight until your going so slow that the front tires will get steering traction and it will turn, but the front tires never get any motor power steer traction. can that clutch system be tuned or calibrated so that the back tires are not over powering the front tires. or is this just the way all EX's are???? My 06 is not near as pushy, but I always wrote it off as to where Ford changed the A-Arm angels and the geometry of the suspension.
 






[MENTION=194408]va2explorer[/MENTION], can you snap and post a picture of you '06 front strut tower? Where the upper a arm mounts? I'd like to see what they changed.
 






[MENTION=194408]va2explorer[/MENTION], can you snap and post a picture of you '06 front strut tower? Where the upper a arm mounts? I'd like to see what they changed.

I was mainly referring to the rear suspension, but i'll take a quick look at the front to see if there are any changes.
 






would unplugging those fuses increase mpg at all? i have a wooshing noise in my rear end while driving that may be a rear end or bearing and I might try this just to see if it helps the 4 mpg I get??? 2002 v6 Limited. 5r55 trans
 






If you have an AWD 4x4 like I do then the problem might be not having the same thickness tires. I bought 2 tires from NTB once and they didn't tell me that I needed to get all 4 at the same time because if the thickness on the other 2 tires is not the same then it will cause your Ford to jerk and pull oddly on the transmission and cause damage to the transmission. Again another lesson I learned the hard way as an Explorer owner but now I know. IF YOU BUY NEW TIRES FOR YOUR FORD GET ALL 4, DO NOT JUST BUY 2 IT WILL SCREW UP YOUR SUV.
 






Have you changed the fluid in the transfer case? I had the front binding once in a while like it was engaging the clutch a little. On a rack, turning the rear wheels, the front would slow start to turn. I changed the fluid and it was rather dark with a very fine grit, so I change it again as a flush and then once more using Royal purple. It is working like it is brand new now.
 






You need a new set of FOUR tires.
 






Did the brown wire mod, and all is good. However I did measure the tire height as best I could with a straight edge across the top of the tire, and a tape measure to determine height. The Michelin 255/55R18 with approximately 50% tread came in about 1/8" taller than the Bridgestone 255/55R18 with approximately 50% tread. So this definitely verifies that tire height is a factor, and only as little as an 1/8" difference will cause the jerking felt while coasting.
Also for all you 3rd gen guys and gals the brown wire mod is no where near as difficult as some have made it seem. I have read quit a few threads in reference to the brown wire mod, and they tell you 8 foot of wire, toggle switch with a light, cutting a whole in the dash, relay, 2 hrs to complete, ect. I did this mod in 20 minutes. Granted I already had a toggle switch, and wire connectors, but still very simple. A 2 position(on/off) toggle switch is a must (10 amp or higher), an old 6' or 8' extension cord, two blue female wire ends or 2 blue ring terminals if you get a toggle switch with screws on the connectors, 2 blue butt connectors or two small blue or grey wire nuts, and some electrical tape. Step 1: Cut both ends off the old extension cord then put either the female wire ends or the ring terminal to one end of the cord and attach to toggle switch. Step 2: Pop up the passenger side rocker panel plastic(it runs along the floor from front to back of passenger door) there are 3 heavy duty metal clips that hold this plastic on, if any of the clips do not come off with the plastic pry them off, and attach them back on the plastic piece. Step 3: Pop open the top of the black plastic wire tunnel.. under in that tunnel you will see 2 wire bundles, locate the small bundle remove some of the factory black tape about 8" to 10" back from the front of the door, and pull out the brown wire.. cut the wire. Step 4: run the bare end of your old extension cord down and behind the kick panel plastic under the dash just in front of the plastic you just popped up, and attach with either butt connector or wire nuts, one end of your old extension cord to one end of the brown wire, and the other end of your old extension cord to the other end of the brown wire, and then tape up with electrical tape. Step 5: Put the wire back in the tunnel and pop the top back down. pop the rocker panel plastic back down. now open the glove box, and route your toggle swithch into the glove box from the right side of the box. coil any excessive wire and put a zip tie on it, and this will be the new home of your toggle switch, in the glove box. Out of the way, no drilling, no tearing the radio out, no dash work at all.
 






Back
Top