Flat tow? 1995 XLT Control Trac, AT, 4x4

[toyotaspeed90]

So as the title states.

Getting an RV and want to flat tow an off road rig behind it. The RV is not really rated enough to tow the Explorer (so long as we stay under the expected weight of the rig and we stengthen the chasis, I'm not concerned about a few hundred lb variance) so a dolly or flatbed is out of the question.

I've seen a lot of threads & comments online regarding newer explorers having a dealer option of an electronic piece that can be installed for flat towing.

I read someone saying to leave it in 2WD mode and remove the rear driveline

I've also read that there's an electronic motor where you can "find" neutral for the transfercase....

Pulling the driveline sounds like the best option.... please bear with me as I'm much more of a FWD and RWD oriented guy... this Explorer is our first 4wd vehicle.

So the questions stand... since the key has to be set to "on" to allow the steering wheel to move, is there going to be an issue with pulling the driveline and the control trac?

If the rear driveline is removed is there going to be issues with the front wheels turning and heating up fluid either in the transfer case or the transmission? If so - are there AT pumps (for flat towing) available for the 95 Explorer?

Would hate to have to sell the explorer to buy a Jeep or 'Yota just because I can't tow it with the RV....

 

[drdoom]

What positions does your in-dash switch have? Is it AUTO/4HIGH/4LOW? If it is I think there is a neutral position on the case, just not sure about the '95. If so your best bet would be the flat tow optional control.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Yeah its a selectable 2wd, 4wd high (which I have read is more of an auto 4wd on the 95}, and a 4wd low which I have used and it does lock in place.

 

[drdoom]

Hmmmm...not sure if that one has neutral. Try the towing forum, I think there is more info there.

 

[ZBlackBeast]

In 2wd there is a piece in the front diff that unlocks the wheels so the diff, and there for driveshaft does not spin.

If i were you, I would put it in 2wd, and remove the rear shaft.

 

[snoranger]

Yeah its a selectable 2wd, 4wd high (which I have read is more of an auto 4wd on the 95}, and a 4wd low which I have used and it does lock in place.

On a '95 you have
2wd
4Auto
4Low


Yes there is a neutral position in the T-case, you just cant get to it without the neutral tow kit and a dealer reprogram. There have been a few threads over the years about it, but no one has ever really come up with anything solid other then talk to the dealer about it.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

if by chance someone knows - what is it that is reprogrammed? I can't imagine that the OBD1 (95 is a fake obd2.... has the obd2 plug but it's really an obd1 setup) ecu controls the t-case....

almost amazes me that someone hasn't figured out the switch output / motor / controller to do it ourselves... especially considering it's been 17 years.

Hell my IS300 is only 8 years old and people have cracked the internal amplifiers to create their own pre-outs... and the "unchange-able" Toyota ecu in my old '90 corolla was completely revamped with a simple change...


With that being said (ahem).... if the front diff is unlocked - I'm guessing it unlocks within the differential... the axles are still connected to the wheels which still spin... is there anything in the front diff of concern to have those axles spinning without the AT pump going? Is there a (relatively inexpensive) way to put manual locking hubs on the front that others have successfully completed?

 

[deweyville65]

Why do you need locking hubs? The front drive shaft does not turn unless you have it in 4Auto or 4Low. At least my 96 Control Track doesn't. And if the front diff was going to burn up by towing it, it would burn up just driving it.
If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.

 

[snoranger]

if by chance someone knows - what is it that is reprogrammed? I can't imagine that the OBD1 (95 is a fake obd2.... has the obd2 plug but it's really an obd1 setup) ecu controls the t-case....

almost amazes me that someone hasn't figured out the switch output / motor / controller to do it ourselves... especially considering it's been 17 years.

Hell my IS300 is only 8 years old and people have cracked the internal amplifiers to create their own pre-outs... and the "unchange-able" Toyota ecu in my old '90 corolla was completely revamped with a simple change...


With that being said (ahem).... if the front diff is unlocked - I'm guessing it unlocks within the differential... the axles are still connected to the wheels which still spin... is there anything in the front diff of concern to have those axles spinning without the AT pump going? Is there a (relatively inexpensive) way to put manual locking hubs on the front that others have successfully completed?

Its the GEM that controls the 4WD, not the ECM. The main reason, I would think, that no one has "cracked it" is that its not a common issue. If a lot of people had a need for it, then someone would have done it already.

Why do you need locking hubs? The front drive shaft does not turn unless you have it in 4Auto or 4Low. At least my 96 Control Track doesn't. And if the front diff was going to burn up by towing it, it would burn up just driving it.
If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.

The 95-96 front axle disconnect is on the pass side axle. Its vacuum activated by solenoids on the right side of the rad support, which are controlled by the GEM.
When the axle is disconnected the left shaft still spins and turns the spider gears, but not the ring and pinion.